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Spirograph 07-14-2009 12:21 AM

yellow or red top battery?
 
I went to Autozone last night and picked up a red top, but it wasn't the one with reverse posts like the 8 needs. So I returned it tonight and got the D35 yellow top because the reverse post red is special order. But, it has lower cranking power and costs about $40 more, plus doesn't have the $25 rebate like the red does right now. Should I return it again and get the reverse red ordered? What's the advantages of the yellow? I don't really understand deep cycling, I don't have a sub or amps installed. Are there any other benefits to a yellow other than running more "stuff"? My main concern is something that starts the car easier, and also something that will last longer (batteries normally die about 18 months in Phoenix).

EDZRIDE 07-14-2009 09:57 AM

Get a group 35 battery (has the correct post layout), either the Red Top or Sears Diehard Platinum.

Huey52 07-14-2009 10:09 AM

The Yellow Top is a "deep cycle" battery which is good if you have aftermarket electronics and tend to leave them on with the ignition off.

The Red Top has a higher cold cranking amperage rating (better starting) and is best if you don't leave electronics on.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ULT-9020-164/

edit: you can see from the linked Summit model that the Positive (Red) terminal is in the proper orientation (aft inboard).

See also TSB 01-019/05 dtd 29 June 2005

Jedi54 07-14-2009 11:50 AM

^^^ he speaketh the truth.

It all comes down to what your needs are; for me that was the Yellow Top.

Razz1 07-14-2009 12:24 PM

As long as you have 550 CCA you are fine. If no, get the red.

laythor 07-14-2009 12:55 PM

yellow and red make orange.

zell311@ 07-14-2009 01:53 PM


Originally Posted by laythor (Post 3116255)
yellow and red make orange.

qft

Jedi54 07-14-2009 01:57 PM

shut up Laythor!
You know as well as anyone that only Turbo'd 8's can use the Orange Battery.
NA cars will overcharge their flux capacitors and then all hell breaks loose.

laythor 07-14-2009 02:44 PM

Don't hate just because you missed your chance Jedi!

And we all know that Optima made only one orange top battery but it became self aware at 0:31 hours on june 18th, 1999 and will soon take over the world.

Jedi54 07-14-2009 02:45 PM

:scared:

xun4gvn4everx 07-14-2009 02:48 PM

My gawd, it has begun!

nycgps 07-14-2009 04:31 PM

Both Yellow and Red has more than 550 CCA

but I would say ... dont get Optima batteries from Autozone. Cuz Autozone charge 190 for red top and 210 for yellow top, even with the redtop rebate it still not worth it.

Btw, I dont think Optima battery worth their price anymore, they used to have 3 yr free replacement + 72 months prorate for their batteries. but I guess The economy kills their warranty too. Now you will only get 3 years free replacement warranty.

If I only get 3 yr free replacement warranty, I would rather get Duralast Gold from Autozone, 90 bux + tax, same 3 years free replacement then 60 months prorate. The only downside is the Duralast gold has 640 CCA, but its more than enough for our cars to start.

You can "take your chances" and buy it from Amazon. Link to Red top is here Its the cheapest plus free shipping. BUT !!!!! You will not get warranty from Amazon or Optima. So if its DoA, you're fuxked. but if its good, u got yourself a pretty "good" battery for around 140 bux.

Jedi54 07-14-2009 05:33 PM

This is where I got mine, great prices and FREE shipping
http://www.1st-optima-batteries.com/

Huey52 07-15-2009 06:52 AM

The only downside to online ordering is then where do you dispose of your old battery?

syntheticdarkness 07-15-2009 08:37 AM

The one parts store where I live gives you 5 dollars just for used batteries. I also have a red top, but mine's a 34 since it's not up front.

xun4gvn4everx 07-15-2009 10:14 AM


Originally Posted by Huey52 (Post 3117798)
The only downside to online ordering is then where do you dispose of your old battery?

I don't know about where you live, but the auto store near my house will take any battery any time and give you the core cash value

PirateARRRX8 07-15-2009 11:58 AM

i would go with the red.. or an OEM

xun4gvn4everx 07-15-2009 11:59 AM


Originally Posted by PirateARRRX8 (Post 3118351)
i would go with the red.. or an OEM

again, it all depends on what you are trying to get out of the car. There is no one right way.

J wind 07-15-2009 02:15 PM

I'm running a yellow top myself. No crazy audio system or anything either. I bought it just because the shop I went to didn't have anything else that would fit my 8.

I've heard that Optima isn't really what they were back in the day, in that quality has gone down a bit. But honestly, I haven't notice anything bad about my yellow top. Still fires up in less then 2secs, even after 3 weeks of non operation.

xun4gvn4everx 07-15-2009 02:29 PM


Originally Posted by J wind (Post 3118710)
I'm running a yellow top myself. No crazy audio system or anything either. I bought it just because the shop I went to didn't have anything else that would fit my 8.

I've heard that Optima isn't really what they were back in the day, in that quality has gone down a bit. But honestly, I haven't notice anything bad about my yellow top. Still fires up in less then 2secs, even after 3 weeks of non operation.

ouch, not a good idea to let the car sit for that long without being run. the engine could seize up. Should start and run it bout every 3 days

Spirograph 07-15-2009 04:01 PM


Originally Posted by xun4gvn4everx (Post 3118726)
ouch, not a good idea to let the car sit for that long without being run. the engine could seize up. Should start and run it bout every 3 days

The previous owner of my 8 basically had it sitting in her garage for the past 2 years. It wasn't seized of course, but could that have caused lots of other damage? It's an '04 w/ 36k.

xun4gvn4everx 07-15-2009 04:06 PM

Yea it def could have. was it a DD before she parked it?

Spirograph 07-15-2009 05:36 PM

I'm not sure, I bought it from an RV dealership - she traded it in.

nycgps 07-15-2009 06:22 PM


Originally Posted by xun4gvn4everx (Post 3118726)
ouch, not a good idea to let the car sit for that long without being run. the engine could seize up. Should start and run it bout every 3 days

wtf ?

seize up ? ...

:icon_bs:

Jedi54 07-15-2009 06:59 PM

engine won't seize up from sitting

User24 07-15-2009 07:47 PM

I don't think you will notice any difference in startup ability between Optima and the Panasonic.

xun4gvn4everx 07-15-2009 08:27 PM


Originally Posted by nycgps (Post 3119226)
wtf ?

seize up ? ...

:icon_bs:


Originally Posted by Jedi54 (Post 3119284)
engine won't seize up from sitting


I have to disagree with you both on this one. If you let an engine sit, piston or rotary, the oil drains from the pistions/rotars and then the metal from the pistons/rotars will sieze to the walls. Once the rust starts, you are screwed. Not to mention, if you use the vehicle as a DD, then the engine and car parts are use to being "exercised" everyday. So when you abruptly let them sit, things rust, dryrot, and go to sh*t. If you do not use the vehicle as a DD, then you can let the car sit for longer periods of time since it is not use to the constant "exercising".

db_8 07-15-2009 09:01 PM

funny, just got my optima red top this weekend. lots of confusion on the model number of the battery. costco one is a 75/35 but the terminals are on the wrong side. got mine from a battery store, model number is blank but the part number i think says SC35A. size 35 with the posts on the correct position. no extensions needed.

J wind 07-16-2009 02:41 AM


Originally Posted by xun4gvn4everx (Post 3118726)
ouch, not a good idea to let the car sit for that long without being run. the engine could seize up. Should start and run it bout every 3 days

I'm not too worried about my motor seizing up, my 8 is a weekend car after all. I have my doubts on a motor seizing up that easily, I'll look into it, but still...



Originally Posted by db_8 (Post 3119496)
funny, just got my optima red top this weekend. lots of confusion on the model number of the battery. costco one is a 75/35 but the terminals are on the wrong side. got mine from a battery store, model number is blank but the part number i think says SC35A. size 35 with the posts on the correct position. no extensions needed.


Yea watch out for that, Costco has a different battery all together lol. You used the attachment though right? The thing that raises it up a bit?

nycgps 07-16-2009 06:47 AM


Originally Posted by xun4gvn4everx (Post 3119426)
I have to disagree with you both on this one. If you let an engine sit, piston or rotary, the oil drains from the pistions/rotars and then the metal from the pistons/rotars will sieze to the walls. Once the rust starts, you are screwed. Not to mention, if you use the vehicle as a DD, then the engine and car parts are use to being "exercised" everyday. So when you abruptly let them sit, things rust, dryrot, and go to sh*t. If you do not use the vehicle as a DD, then you can let the car sit for longer periods of time since it is not use to the constant "exercising".

do you have any idea what the engine made out of ?

Huey52 07-16-2009 06:53 AM

Our rotary engines can't seize thanks to the differing expansion rates of the iron rotors and aluminum housings.

xun4gvn4everx 07-16-2009 11:52 AM

I see your point. But its not only the rotors you have to worry about seizing up. Its all of the mechanical parts in the engine, drivetrain, etc...

carbonRX8 07-18-2009 11:25 PM

My two cents on the "exercising"?:icon_bs: Not being cruel. Well prepped a car can sit indefinitely. With no prep, 1 or 2 years is not all that bad. I let my car sit for 10 months last year. I expected and had no issues on startup. It was as if I shut it down the night before.

Anyway.

What is the best red-top for a trunk relocation? I was going to go with an Odyssey PC680, but changed my mind as my car sits for weeks at a time.

Opinions welcome, but actual experience is prefered.

Spirograph 07-18-2009 11:56 PM

Regarding the seizing of iron rotors in aluminum housings, I was just reading Wikipedia and came across this; "This ensures that even a severely overheated Wankel engine cannot seize, as would likely occur in an overheated piston engine."

So the yellow top offers no other advantages to a standard battery other than deep cycling?

syntheticdarkness 07-19-2009 12:55 AM

I like the optima's because of the spill proof and strength they have. With the experiance I had with them so far I'll more then likely keep buying them for all my vehicles. Hell my old vehicle had one, and well, I kinda drop it down my hill, and was like ohhh sh$t there goes my $, and got it and the case was fine just a few scuffs nothing major, and put it in the car and fired right up, and to this day it's still working (3-4years later).

I went with the red #34 since it has 800cca, 1000ca, 100min reserve capacity for in my trunk.

db_8 07-19-2009 05:19 AM


Originally Posted by J wind (Post 3119875)
Yea watch out for that, Costco has a different battery all together lol. You used the attachment though right? The thing that raises it up a bit?

yep, i did. only one of it tho. i think the B plate. but the stock battery that i took out in mine also used a raising plate and it's not size 35 (a bit smaller than what i bought so that was a surprise) so i don't know if that was really stock or the previous owner got scammed :dunno:

schiraldi 07-19-2009 11:29 PM

Battery preferences?
 
Ok guys, so its time for me to replace my battery in my '04 rx8 - anyone have any particular batteries they prefer, or know to have a good track record? kind of a dumb question, but still worth asking i think.

Jedi54 07-20-2009 12:37 AM

It gets pretty cold in Connecticut, right?
if so, cranking power is what you need. Most batteries will do a good enough job but if you want a maintenance free batery, you can look into an Optima Red Top

swoope 07-20-2009 03:01 AM


Originally Posted by xun4gvn4everx (Post 3120384)
I see your point. But its not only the rotors you have to worry about seizing up. Its all of the mechanical parts in the engine, drivetrain, etc...

wow,

just wow..:rollingla

i cant even comment on this brilliant post..

beers :beer:

shazy 07-20-2009 04:07 AM

Haha don't worry Swoope you weren't the only one laughing :)

schiraldi 07-20-2009 05:54 AM

yeah it does get cold in the winter - i was looking at the optima, a friend of mine who is really into all things mechanical (read: builds extreme off road vehicles) uses an optima in his jeep. thanks!

Huey52 07-20-2009 06:26 AM

Both the Optima Red and Yellow top batteries purport to have better shock and vibration resiliancy than standard batteries due to their method of cell contruction and isolation.

As far as the Yellow top, yes, its advantage is better recovery from deep cycling.


Originally Posted by Spirograph (Post 3124559)
...

So the yellow top offers no other advantages to a standard battery other than deep cycling?


Huey52 07-20-2009 06:28 AM

The ol' adage comes to mind - if you're already neck deep in a hole, quit digging!


Originally Posted by xun4gvn4everx (Post 3120384)
I see your point. But its not only the rotors you have to worry about seizing up. Its all of the mechanical parts in the engine, drivetrain, etc...


nycgps 07-20-2009 07:31 AM


Originally Posted by xun4gvn4everx (Post 3120384)
I see your point. But its not only the rotors you have to worry about seizing up. Its all of the mechanical parts in the engine, drivetrain, etc...

swoope, Im laughing so hard that its not even funny.

*high five*


Originally Posted by Spirograph (Post 3124559)
Regarding the seizing of iron rotors in aluminum housings, I was just reading Wikipedia and came across this; "This ensures that even a severely overheated Wankel engine cannot seize, as would likely occur in an overheated piston engine."

:)


So the yellow top offers no other advantages to a standard battery other than deep cycling?
My bro has a 75/34 yellow top, got it about 3 years ago, car totaled last winter, took the battery back and it has been sitting in my garage, it has experienced the coldest winter without starting (most of my basement has no heat, coldest was 16 degrees)

Until about 2-3 weeks ago. I took it out and put it into my 7, it worked that time, so I shut it off, and I left it in the car connected.

yesterday, I tried to start it, it wont even crank, took the battery to Autozone, its too low they wont even charge it for me.

so I was like fuck it, I put it back to the 7, jump start it, let it run for hmm 15-30 minutes, then it start right up. it works :) I guess this is the good thing about deep cycle batteries huh ? (to be safe, Im going to buy a battery charger)

So yeah Optima is good ;)

Nubo 07-20-2009 11:54 AM


Originally Posted by J wind (Post 3118710)
...
I've heard that Optima isn't really what they were back in the day, in that quality has gone down a bit. But honestly, I haven't notice anything bad about my yellow top. Still fires up in less then 2secs, even after 3 weeks of non operation.

Yes, I have read too many reports of Optima (specifically their deep-cycle versions) having lackluster quality control since they were bought out by Johnson Controls.

I got 4 years out of my Yellow-Top, and it performed well during that period, including a flood recovery and the de-carbon procedure. However I would have hoped for more longevity.

Based on the negative reviews, I decided to change to a Hawker Oddyssey. These get high ratings from the DIY electric vehicle community.

Fortunately, this battery is available through Sears, re-branded as the DieHard Platinum-Plus P5, group 35. It's a heck of a battery, more capacity and deep-cycle ability. It's an AGM type battery like Optima, so has the same leakproof and non-corrosion advantages. And the Sears warranty puts the Optima Yellow-Top warranty to complete shame. But, do not buy if you are looking to save weight. :rolleyes:

EDZRIDE 07-20-2009 01:39 PM


Originally Posted by Nubo (Post 3126224)
Yes, I have read too many reports of Optima (specifically their deep-cycle versions) having lackluster quality control since they were bought out by Johnson Controls.

I got 4 years out of my Yellow-Top, and it performed well during that period, including a flood recovery and the de-carbon procedure. However I would have hoped for more longevity.

Based on the negative reviews, I decided to change to a Hawker Oddyssey. These get high ratings from the DIY electric vehicle community.

Fortunately, this battery is available through Sears, re-branded as the DieHard Platinum-Plus P5, group 35. It's a heck of a battery, more capacity and deep-cycle ability. It's an AGM type battery like Optima, so has the same leakproof and non-corrosion advantages. And the Sears warranty puts the Optima Yellow-Top warranty to complete shame. But, do not buy if you are looking to save weight. :rolleyes:

Agreed!

Spirograph 07-20-2009 02:11 PM

So what I gather is that the deep cycling actually could provide benefits to me for decarbs, and deflooding, or if I leave the trunk partially open by accident.

What does Sears charge for the DieHard Platinum-Plus P5, group 35? What are it's CA/CCA ratings? Thannks.

EDZRIDE 07-20-2009 02:36 PM


Originally Posted by Spirograph (Post 3126458)
So what I gather is that the deep cycling actually could provide benefits to me for decarbs, and deflooding, or if I leave the trunk partially open by accident.

What does Sears charge for the DieHard Platinum-Plus P5, group 35? What are it's CA/CCA ratings? Thannks.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/v_10153_12605_Automotive

Spirograph 07-20-2009 02:41 PM

Hmm, 1 review and it's 1 star.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...tive+Batteries

EDZRIDE 07-20-2009 02:46 PM


Originally Posted by Spirograph (Post 3126500)

Wonder if his charging system was up to snuff?


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