L337fpc

iTrader: (4)

Alright so i just ordered this AFR gauge.

Here is all that comes with it:


Now it says it comes with a wiring diagram and a new wideband sensor. A Bosh 4.9 LSU Wideband sensor.

Now I know that chances are, I will have to weld the bung into my exhaust some where. The question is... WHERE?!?!

I have a Greddy SP2 CatBack curently and I will be purchasing the RB DR MP when it comes out.

Is it possible to have it welded at the very end of the header pipe?

L337fpc

iTrader: (4)

...bump...

All I know from research is that it should be at a 3:00 angle on the pipe. I'm gonna take it to a mufflershop to have the bung welded...but where?!

Can any1 help me out?

05rex8

iTrader: (7)

just use the regular bung for the o2 sensor to connect your wideband....you will get a CEL anyways for the catless midpipe, it is pointless after that fact. no need to weld new bungs.

L337fpc

iTrader: (4)

Good point. but when i got for inspections and replace the stock cat...I assume i will have to rewire the factory o2 sensor and unwire the gauge wideband o2 sensor...

05rex8

iTrader: (7)

correct. just leave the factory o2 sensor and ziptie it out of harms way...then when inspection comes up, it will be right there...just switch it out, and ziptie the wideband sensor out of the way...or unplug it

heyarnold69

iTrader: (1)

do you have a high flow cat or midpipe? if so.. ITS ALREADY THERE!!!!!! lol

at least if you have a good quality one lol

L337fpc

iTrader: (4)

Im running a stock cat now. But when the Racing Beat dual resonated midpipe comes out im getting it.

But this maybe a dumber question. But if I swapped out my stock O2 sensor on the stock cat, won't that mess up my fuel trim?

I just got my cobb and Im about to start logging data.

Kane

iTrader: (1)

Just weld it on the front of your cat; right before it mates with the Downpipe.

Cost me $20 bucks to have it done; then I gutted the cat.

BTW - if you got your Cobb; you already have a wideband AFR gauge.

L337fpc

iTrader: (4)

Nice, it just sucks that the gauge has been backordered! bah!

Yea I'm gonna take it to a speedshop near me.

At what angle should the bung be welded? I read else were that it should be @ 3'o'clock. Is that good?

Kane

iTrader: (1)

Yeah; you want it up and out of the way; I did mine on the topish leftish area.... about the 3 o'clock position...

If the gauge is backordered; and you have the COBB; might want to consider not getting it; esp if you are NA.

L337fpc

iTrader: (4)

yea but, i really want a AFR gauge....

Kane

iTrader: (1)

www.dashhawk.com
www.dashdaq.com

Both can read off of your stock sensor.

L337fpc

iTrader: (4)

Those are nice...but I wanted a gauge. I saw that scangauge and I didn't like that.

The AFR gauge I bought is the nicest one i've seen. And its a damn good price considering what it includes.

Kane

iTrader: (1)

Cool man; I have a seperate AFR one too; so to each thier own.

Was just trying to save you some $$$ and headache. If the DashDaq had been around when I went FI - you can bet your sweet azz I wouldn't have spent the $700 plus on the gauges I have now.

L337fpc

iTrader: (4)

Its cool man I appreciate the help.

Once the gauge comes and I swap o2 sensors, i'll revive this thread.

ShellDude

iTrader: (12)

What shop you taking it to? I'm considering having a shop install my test pipe instead of doing it myself. I haven't done any research for shops local to Pottstown... would be nice to find an inspection friendly one too.

L337fpc

iTrader: (4)

You know all you need is a jack, 2 jack stands, a wrench set, WD40, and patience to install a test pipe...

Im not gonna start welding anything. lol.

ShellDude

iTrader: (12)

Yup... I'm just sweating the whole under the car thing. I actually do quite a bit of work on my car, but I keep getting the eebiejeebies about getting underneath it with jackstands and banging away at my exhaust.

L337fpc

iTrader: (4)

Yes, everything minus the pod came.

The gauge is pretty sick. It comes with a Wideband controller and the Bosch Wideband O2 sensor. That and like x3 20ft cables.

Next question, how can i route the senor's cable from under the car....to the interior of the car...?

TheWulf

iTrader: (4)

Run it through the firewall.

BDC

You're not going to like me, l337. Don't use the wideband if it cannot use an NTK 5V sensor. The Bosche one is garbage and is inaccurate. So, if unless you want it just for lights and show, it won't yield the technical precision you'll want.

B

L337fpc

iTrader: (4)

I was under the impression that the RX-8 uses a Bosch sensor...

BDC

I'm not sure if it uses those or not. Wouldn't surprise me if it does, however. But, the issue with the Bosche 5V over the NTK 5V sensors is it can't stand the exhaust heat the RE produces, it has a short life, and is inaccurate at ranges that march outside of stoich. Trust me on this. The only place it has a chance of producing any accuracy is at the very end of the exhaust stream aka the tailpipe. I've only seen one that worked and it was a brand-new Bosche sensor used on a tailpipe setup at a dyno shop in Canada. Otherwise, it's untrustworthy as all get out. I verified it yet again with my wideband for the umpteenth time on an Rx8 I worked on during Thanksgiving holiday that's using the unit that Mazsport used to sell (the one that "integrates" with the Microtech.) On this car, it swung wildly between reading too rich and too lean for the actual, given air/fuel ratio.

B

L337fpc

iTrader: (4)

Well, I have a one year warranty on it. I guess im the guinea pig for this one.

Plus i doubt the NTK sensor is compatible with the gauge i have and its controller.

05rex8

iTrader: (7)

I think mine is a Bosch as well that came with my AEM UEGO wideband gauge. I compared the reading against the actual PCM readings using my accessport. They are spot on.

As for routing it, a good place is from under the dash, behind the radio, under the ashtray and down thru the shifter hole by the tranny.