revivo73

Hello

Where can I position the jackstand?

The jackstands I bought are for normal (whose bottoms are higher than RX-8) cars and so they can't fit every section of the bottom under the normak elevation range of my hydraulic lift (I don't want to over elevate the hydraulic lift).

By the way, I'm not sure that the section I put the hydraulic lift is the most proper place.

I plan to position the jackstand to the section you see in picture. I choose that section because the jackstand can be positioned easily below it. If I let the car sit on that place, would be ok? Are there other section which you can recommend to which I can position the jackstand? For the time being I haven't let the car sit on the jackstand yet. Waiting for the recommendations. Thanks.

Carbon8

iTrader: (4)

Congrats on damaging your unibody

We have a subframe and a pinch weld for a reason, you also have an owners manual with visual instructions. And if those didn't do it for you I heard a google search goes a long way

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Put them on the frame rails right behind the main front cross member.

All_Day_Dre

iTrader: (2)

I think, I THINK, had he known this he may not have asked the question....

check out this pic, it may help https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-whe...stands-103762/

revivo73

As All Day Dre said, I didn't know where to put the lift or the jackstands. All the info onthe net is simply inadequate, including the link you 've given because the pictures are very faint, prone to confuse where to put the hydaulic lift.

But I think I 've made it, w.o. damaging any part under. I positioned the lift onto the middle of the "main front cross member" and the jackstands as seen on picture.



There you see the blue rubber supports to protect the chassis and the aluminum tray where I collected the engine oil.

And no I haven't damaged the unibody. There was only some minor deformation where I put the lift, it's mainly the outer rubber coating which was scraped a bit, no big problem at all.

All_Day_Dre

iTrader: (2)

If you click on the pictures again it should pop them open in a seperate window and clear them up for you

Mr.Mango

iTrader: (2)

on the pinch weld as the above picture shows, it is designed for lifting the car and supporting the vehicle. You do not need any foam between the car & the stand (as the picture shows) I would actually recommend against doing that....

tonik

pinch weld doesnt work for me..it bend...
i use same spot with the op but closer to the pinch weld as possible and a 2x4's

etzilon

Jackstands can go on the rocker panel but a different jackstand design would work better. Harbor Freight sells a rubber jack stand pad that helps.

Jacking points (i.e. where you put your jack on, not your jackstands)
Front - Middle of main front cross member
Rear - Differential

Carbon8

iTrader: (4)

The diff should never be used as a jack point. Its a great way to create serious damage

bose

iTrader: (5)

Funny, that's how the service manual says to lift the rear of the vehicle.

Carbon8

iTrader: (4)

Owners manual says to use the rear subframe cross brace above the diff, not the diff itself.

Owners manual also says to use 5w-20, let me know how thats working out for you

Clint_Hemi

So, because you disagree with their oil recommendation, everything else in the manual is wrong. It amazes me that someone that clearly has so much knowledge about this car would rather spend his time hassling someone that asks for help than just explaining why jacking on the diff is a bad idea.

To the OP, I (and many other people, according to Google) have jacked the rear up on the diff with no damage whatsoever. And unless someone else can tell me why not to, and show me a pic of damage he has seen with his own eyes caused by doing it that way, I'll keep doing it that way.

Carbon8

iTrader: (4)

Mazda disagrees with their own oil recommendations, as well as anyone who knows anything about these cars.

While your at it why don't we just tell the OP to use his trans, oil pan and PPF for jacking points and put as much strain on the drivetrain and mounts as possible when their are numerous better points available.

bose

iTrader: (5)

I've used that method 100's of times without incident. I can see how in theory it could cause a problem but show me an actual example of damage caused by this.
It's not just Mazda's but every car or truck I have ever worked on uses the diff as a lifting point.

Carbon8

iTrader: (4)

I am not saying that it will damage the diff, I am saying that loading 1500lbs on your diff bushing is a terrible idea and straining the entire drivetrain accordingly is not the brightest idea. Im sure Mazda could care less about replacing your mounts and bushing due to this abuse as its more money they charge you for the repairs anyways. Some philosophy with all auto makers.

Case in point
Jacking up on rear differential...bad

Would be a completely different story with a solid axle vehicle, but I would never deliberately cause potential harm to my drivetrain when their are numerous other jack points available

Also having enough faith in people that they will not jack on the cover is laughable all things considered

Clint_Hemi

Honestly, I didn't have a problem with what you said, but more the way you said it. This forum has a wealth of knowledge, and you clearly do know what you're talking about. But you could've just explained that to him in the first place. The general tone on here is one of arrogance, and if that doesn't change, this is going to end up being a forum of 5 very smart but lonely people.

The 4x4 forum I'm on here in South Africa is a proper community. People go out of their way to help each other, and they have regular meetings and enjoy their common interest. It would be awesome if this forum was more like that.

/rant.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

pardon ?



Center of Differential != Rear Subframe Cross Brace above the diff

*facepalm*

5w-20 is not ideal but it does work and in most cases will last thru the warranty period ... which is all they cared (all auto compies)

Carbon8

iTrader: (4)

https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discuss...ebuilt-247916/

If 50% is most cases, even regarding the fact that not all these failures are oil related it is a contributing factor that would account minimally to 5% failures leading to a total of roughly 1800 engines. That seems acceptable by any standard I'm sure its the oil you used

As for the jack point, regardless of the manual I would not advise for it. It's your car do what you want, anything is better than the OP's initial floor board position.

I guess some people just can't be happy unless they are arguing over trivial non-sense, OP has enough information to make his own educated decision by now (not that a 10 second google search wouldn't have eliminated the need for him to create this thread in the first place) thread should be closed

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

the plant also does RX-7 rebuild, and as far as I know, lots of RX-7 guys (even shops) will just get Mazda's "reman", simply because it's much much cheaper, even for parts alone its totally worth it.

and let's not forget all the **** ups the plant did, and the plant before that had horrible problems, 1 example is they just throw all front counterweight into 1 bin ... and just build them up.


just correcting what you said before.

I know how Rx8 rear subframe is like, and sorry about that bimmer dude u posted. It's probably not the best place, but it's not as bad as you think it is. each to their own I guess.