View Poll Results: What oil filter are you using on your rx8?
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What oil filter are you using on your RX8?
08-27-2008, 02:07 PM
#26
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Thanks,
kainis
08-27-2008, 03:37 PM
#27
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My oil pan on my Honda engine had less buildup in it than the intake manifold did and this was at 183,000 miles. Only a slight layer of varnish and that was it. No gunk whatsoever. I'll respectfully disagree that they don't do a good job as I have personal verified proof they work very well. You can't argue with results. RP oil and Wix filters have both proven to work perfectly. I'd like to know where the proven hard info that the metal to metal doesn't seal well comes from and hopefully it isn't off of that article that every idiot on bitog swears by.
Kinda the same thing as a stock Mazda paper element air filter and compared to a K&N or foam filter.
And I can say the same thing about Toyota engines as you did about your Honda, and I only use Toyota OEM filters in since day one (actually the last Toyota motor I ripped apart had 250,000 on it). But the Denso built OEM filters for Toyota and Mazda both are synthetic media.
As far as metal to metal anti drain back valve, it is strictly my opinion. I have not seen a metal to metal valve that doesn't leak... doesn't mean there isn't one... I just have never seen it.
That is why I don't recommend them. Not because of some Internet test, but because of my own experience.
So (and how many times have I said this and people never do it) go prove it too yourself. Go cut a filter open and look at its construction. Look at the design. Prove it too yourself, not based off some internet test or post in a thread.
Of course you'll probably see exactly what I said, but go prove too yourself.
08-27-2008, 03:44 PM
#28
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and Frams do not belong in automotive applications.
08-27-2008, 04:25 PM
#29
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Do you have part number for synthetic material media filter? I would like to try next time. I know that OEM oil filter may come from different Vendor. Some is made in Europe; some is made in Japan; other may be domestic.
08-27-2008, 09:58 PM
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they all have the same P/N, and the revision number is A for the Denso and Tennex filters.
08-27-2008, 10:48 PM
#36
USA Mazda dealers get oil filters from Japan (Denso) and USA (Tennex) and Europe. I don't know who makes the Euro one yet, but know it is made in France (and I would suspect to the same standards as USA and Japan- but I am not sure... I need to cut one open from Europe and find out, but my dealer has only been getting the Denso ones lately).
they all have the same P/N, and the revision number is A for the Denso and Tennex filters.
they all have the same P/N, and the revision number is A for the Denso and Tennex filters.
pm me ur address if u want
08-27-2008, 11:01 PM
#38
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My two cents
I have a back ground in hydraulic system components including filtration. Regarding a metal to metal seat for the drain back valve, from my experience on what I know about hydraulics, a metal to metal seat is used in high pressure hydraulic applications. A soft seat--nitrile or buna N in this case (as opposed to a better high temp seal in viton)--is used in low pressure hydraulic applications. At 70 PSI, an automotive application is considered a very low pressure hydraulic application. A soft seat is more than adequate and I can see how a metal to metal seat can leak.
As far as filter media goes---Microglass is considered the best and paper is outdated. It's all about cost. Paper is cheaper, microglass is state of the art and more expensive. It's all based upon the micron rating during filtration of particles that a filter will let through. Keep in mind you don't want too good of filtration or too fine of a micron rating or you will end up changing your filter more often.
As far as by pass valves go---If your filter has a by-pass valve, if you don't change the filter and the filter goes into by-pass mode, you are running your system on unfiltered oil. (The alternative would be to have no by pass valve at all but then you'd end up with a clogged filter and consequently a dead engine. In any event, remember to change your filters!)
Surface area was another point raised in the discussion here. Filter medias are pleated because the more pleats increases the surface area. The more more surface area, the better the filtration.
hydraulics 101
As far as filter media goes---Microglass is considered the best and paper is outdated. It's all about cost. Paper is cheaper, microglass is state of the art and more expensive. It's all based upon the micron rating during filtration of particles that a filter will let through. Keep in mind you don't want too good of filtration or too fine of a micron rating or you will end up changing your filter more often.
As far as by pass valves go---If your filter has a by-pass valve, if you don't change the filter and the filter goes into by-pass mode, you are running your system on unfiltered oil. (The alternative would be to have no by pass valve at all but then you'd end up with a clogged filter and consequently a dead engine. In any event, remember to change your filters!)
Surface area was another point raised in the discussion here. Filter medias are pleated because the more pleats increases the surface area. The more more surface area, the better the filtration.
hydraulics 101
Last edited by b'Eight'; 08-27-2008 at 11:10 PM.
08-28-2008, 10:54 PM
#41
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No, I didn't say they don't do a great job, I am saying that paper element filters generally don't filter as well as synthetic or spun media.
Kinda the same thing as a stock Mazda paper element air filter and compared to a K&N or foam filter.
And I can say the same thing about Toyota engines as you did about your Honda, and I only use Toyota OEM filters in since day one (actually the last Toyota motor I ripped apart had 250,000 on it). But the Denso built OEM filters for Toyota and Mazda both are synthetic media.
As far as metal to metal anti drain back valve, it is strictly my opinion. I have not seen a metal to metal valve that doesn't leak... doesn't mean there isn't one... I just have never seen it.
That is why I don't recommend them. Not because of some Internet test, but because of my own experience.
So (and how many times have I said this and people never do it) go prove it too yourself. Go cut a filter open and look at its construction. Look at the design. Prove it too yourself, not based off some internet test or post in a thread.
Of course you'll probably see exactly what I said, but go prove too yourself.
Kinda the same thing as a stock Mazda paper element air filter and compared to a K&N or foam filter.
And I can say the same thing about Toyota engines as you did about your Honda, and I only use Toyota OEM filters in since day one (actually the last Toyota motor I ripped apart had 250,000 on it). But the Denso built OEM filters for Toyota and Mazda both are synthetic media.
As far as metal to metal anti drain back valve, it is strictly my opinion. I have not seen a metal to metal valve that doesn't leak... doesn't mean there isn't one... I just have never seen it.
That is why I don't recommend them. Not because of some Internet test, but because of my own experience.
So (and how many times have I said this and people never do it) go prove it too yourself. Go cut a filter open and look at its construction. Look at the design. Prove it too yourself, not based off some internet test or post in a thread.
Of course you'll probably see exactly what I said, but go prove too yourself.
08-31-2008, 10:21 AM
#42
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Purolator Pure One - Got about 16 of them half price from Amazon.com long ago... enough for the remaining lifetime of this car ) I ran OEM twice (new and the first change at the dealer). I change the oil myself in 5 minutes without any tools - got the dealer to install a quick drain port for me (15 minutes to drain the oil is extra and used to inspect other car parts or clean the interior). So not worth the driving and waiting time at the dealer (plus they always spilled oil from the filter when changing it - I wrap a paper towel, then a plastic grocery bag around the filter base, before removing it, to trap all the oil leaking).
) I ran OEM twice (new and the first change at the dealer). I change the oil myself in 5 minutes without any tools - got the dealer to install a quick drain port for me (15 minutes to drain the oil is extra and used to inspect other car parts or clean the interior). So not worth the driving and waiting time at the dealer (plus they always spilled oil from the filter when changing it - I wrap a paper towel, then a plastic grocery bag around the filter base, before removing it, to trap all the oil leaking).
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