abrankhalid

It's good to be back. I finally got a 2005 and this time it's not automatic. It's currently sitting at the dealership awaiting an engine change due to low compression but it's under warranty so no worries there.

I was wondering what parts should I try to get the dealership to put in while they have it open. New plugs, coils and belts are all must. I was wondering if I can get them to check the OMP as well or better even, clean the nozzles too. Any one have any experience with that?

Also, since the car already has 70k on it, I was thinking of a new clutch as well.I am going to talk to them tomorrow and see what kind of money they are looking to charge for that. I am hoping for minimum to no extra labor since they already have the car apart.

Any other things that I should look in to. Any stupid seals or hoses that are a oia later on?

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

they will never bother with the OMP. it's such an expensive SOB, well, it rarely fails so it's all good (but when it does ... its going to be expensive, 1.5K?)

The nozzles could be clean with just a 2 seconds spray of Brake Cleaner thru it.

The only thing I can think of is the Clutch and Flywheel.

Oh remember to tell them to replace the damn fuel hose between the engine to the hard line. some idiots don't know about it and end up BBQing customer's car (or even worst, your car burn in flames after you left the dealership), it's part of the warranty, tell those monkeys to get the line and claim it under warranty, do NOT ever trust the quick connect garbage, it only work once, after u pop it open, u HAVE TO REPLACE IT.

Rotary-RX8

iTrader: (1)

Sorry to hijack but what was needed to get yourself a new engine ?? Was it as simple as going to the dealership saying you want a compression test then if the results fail, you bring service receipts and thats it ??

How much did they charge you ??


I have low compression on 2 of the faces of my front rotor but my rear rotor is fine.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Your location saids Toronto. sorry it does not apply to you.

As always you can get a Rebuild from Mazda, but I would NOT trust them. I rather just have some good builder in US like Mazmart or kevin @ RR to give you a quote.

abrankhalid

You missed engine mounts
So tomorrow morning I will be talking to them and seeing how much they want to charge for putting in the clutch and flywheel. Any idea how much time would it take for both? Keep in mind the dealership took an hour and a half for the first compression test and then 3 hours for the decarb and another compression test.

Btw, they are charging me for the first compression test. I haven't said anything but shouldn't that also be covered under warranty?
And thanks for the fuel line tip. The list grows...

abrankhalid

Kind of. But I don't know how it works across the border. They said it's one and a half hour of labor so it's 180+tax. But it should be covered under warranty and I should not have to pay for it.
Again, don't know if it works the same way in Canada or if you are still under warranty.

godesshunter

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/im-getting-new-engine-core-what-else-should-i-do-same-time-230447/

fish1

check to see if you have the updated SSV installed.
You can save yourself alot of money and grief by having the updated version installed now with the engine out.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Engine mount is not always needed, it depends.

and yes, they are trying to rip you on the Compression test $$$

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Based on they are trying to rip him off on the Compression test

I would say they will want to charge 2 hrs to do the SSV too, even it really takes maybe 15 minutes when the engine is out.

LifeAfterRx8

iTrader: (17)

I would do plugs, wires, coils, clutch (I believe new engines come with a new flywheel)
release bearing, mounts (if needed), upgraded (N3Z1-18-400) starter, CAT CONVERTER (If failed) and if your dealer is nice, the wire harness for the steering rack... You know, those annoying cables that cause your steering rack to act up? They're only around $100 and save you a ton in labor.

Forgot to add,
ALWAYS ASK FOR THE OLD PARTS BACK!

abrankhalid

Thanks for the input guys.
I just got off the phone with the tech at the dealership. He already had a list of parts he recommended I should change while the engine was out ( pretty nice , huh ? ) . It was basically engine mounts , updated SSV , new clutch , ignition coils and plugs.
I was afraid that he would say no to me providing the parts but he was fine with it ! He said the pulleys and the belts look fine but if i wanted to , i should get them too.

The only problem here is that its only 3 to 4 days to get all those things and the guy said that they will get the engine by friday or saturday. Its going to be a close thing. Any one selling a new clutch near Detroit/Ann Arbor by any chance ?

Where can i get the SSV from , apart from the dealership and any idea about the cost ? I am going to search for it on the forums but if some one can save me the time, that would be great !

BTW, is there something something wrong with the search function in the parts/car for sale ? i cant seem to get it to respond to the search for clutch !

abrankhalid

Will get the old parts back for sure !! I dont think i can afford all the things together. I will have to take a chance i guess
Thanks for letting me know that the engine comes with a new flywheel and water pump...i was wondering why no one had recommended that with the clutch.
The starter was updated and it was working fine starting the old low compression engine ( really low numbers in 480s all around )

abrankhalid

The tech said something about a "rubber/plastic part" in the lower manifold which i am guessing was the SSV. He said they wont charge any labor for it. Now I just have to source the part from somewhere. They want to charge around 600 in parts alone for the clutch kit. I am trying to not get ripped off as much as I can .

mhawk1134

i just got my 04 back from a motor replacement under warranty and i had them replace the mounts (on my request) and the clutch, they suggested the clutch, throw out bearing, and something else too but i couldnt afford it all at once. I also was charged 180$ for the original compression test but didnt argue it. I feel like the coils and plugs should be chaged also, but im assuming i can find them else where for cheaper... any suggestions? (sorry for thread-jack OP)

abrankhalid

I am going to contact MANO if the dealership charges me for the initial compression test and refuse to cover it under warranty. I suggest you do the same as it is warranty work and you shouldn't be charged for it.
For coils and wires, you could the BHR route which almost every one on this forum seems to like and recommend. But they were too pricey for me. If you check out advanced auto, they have coils that are almost oem. I think they are made in the same facility the Mazda ones are but sold under a different brand name. The biggest plus point is that they have lifetime replacement warranty so you can basically change them every 10 - 15k miles if they give you trouble. I just ordered them for my car ( part # e1001 on advanced website)
The plugs are also available there for much lower than dealership. If you do it smartly and use their coupons and deals, you cN get them for pretty cheap. My total for coils and plugs came to around 150 shipped.
PM me if you have trouble figuring it out.