what is the best engine oil for the RX 8?
03-01-2010, 08:24 PM
#27
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what MIL spec is that? I don't think that is quiet mil-l-23843...but since it is not a c-130 turbine engine it may be an acceptable alternative...
03-02-2010, 02:15 AM
#29
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To ensure ultimate lubrication and to reduce friction,I use a pail of KY with each oil change,and with the residue left,I get to stand back and enjoy the good looks of my 8 "my" way. Ahhh.
01-23-2011, 11:47 PM
#30
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The Car: 04 Rx-8, 6-speed MT
Location: Tropics. Yearly Low 50 deg. F, Yearly High 93 deg. F, Yearly Avg. 82 deg. F
My car's got 9K miles on it. Am looking to transfer to Mobil1 0w-40 Full Synthetic.
Should it be ok?
Location: Tropics. Yearly Low 50 deg. F, Yearly High 93 deg. F, Yearly Avg. 82 deg. F
My car's got 9K miles on it. Am looking to transfer to Mobil1 0w-40 Full Synthetic.
Should it be ok?
01-24-2011, 12:07 AM
#31
Make sure you mix it with Wesson or Mazola. Do NOT use peanut oil or olive oil.
01-24-2011, 12:15 AM
#32
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Thanks. As you can see am a novice to all this.
Is it ok to premix at 9K miles only? I read a thread earlier where many of you suggested not to premix early.
If I premix with Mazola, how much should I put in?
Is it ok to premix at 9K miles only? I read a thread earlier where many of you suggested not to premix early.
If I premix with Mazola, how much should I put in?
01-24-2011, 12:21 AM
#33
We're just kidding about that because this is a topic that has been discussed so much on this forum over the years. So people (sometimes me) joke instead of flaming or telling you to do a SEARCH.
NYCGPS is an expert on this topic. Wait for him to chime in.
01-24-2011, 04:33 AM
#35
On second thought, he may not even bother.
Mobil 1 should be just fine. You should do a search and read some of those threads. You say another thread has some people suggesting not to premix too early? I don't remember those comments.
Mobil 1 should be just fine. You should do a search and read some of those threads. You say another thread has some people suggesting not to premix too early? I don't remember those comments.
01-24-2011, 05:29 AM
#37
Mobil1 is fine only if you have a sohn adapter.
01-24-2011, 05:35 AM
#39
The ones that properly lubricate the housings and seals... A search will show a couple of rotarygod's older threads about oils 
Anyway I use Royal Purple 10w40 because i can get it for dirt cheap, redline and valvoline oils are fine too. Some castrols are ok, others weren't the last time i checked.
I don't know what other brands you have there though!
Anyway I use Royal Purple 10w40 because i can get it for dirt cheap, redline and valvoline oils are fine too. Some castrols are ok, others weren't the last time i checked.
I don't know what other brands you have there though!
01-24-2011, 11:05 AM
#43
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guys- he said tropics and then 0w-40?!
dude get some 10w-40 or 20w-50 in there and then buy the cheapest you can find and change it every 3k. doesnt matter if its synth or dino as long as its easy to get consistently , fits your budget, meets the spec and you keep it topped off.
Last edited by zoom44; 01-24-2011 at 11:11 AM.
01-24-2011, 11:10 AM
#44
I swear someone summoned me here !
Anyway, Just like pretty much everything, Engine oil's formulation change from time to time. So what doesn't work back in the days might actually work ok now.
Just use whatever the hell you want. as long as you use the correct oil for your local climate you be fine. not even gonna bother with the Synthetic thing again, I use it, you don't have to, your car, your money, your choice.
As for premix, do it if you cared about your car. cuz OMP can and will fail, end of story.
Now Im back to my hibernation ... *zzzzZZz*
Anyway, Just like pretty much everything, Engine oil's formulation change from time to time. So what doesn't work back in the days might actually work ok now.
Just use whatever the hell you want. as long as you use the correct oil for your local climate you be fine. not even gonna bother with the Synthetic thing again, I use it, you don't have to, your car, your money, your choice.
As for premix, do it if you cared about your car. cuz OMP can and will fail, end of story.
Now Im back to my hibernation ... *zzzzZZz*
01-24-2011, 01:42 PM
#45
seriously?
guys- he said tropics and then 0w-40?!
dude get some 10w-40 or 20w-50 in there and then buy the cheapest you can find and change it every 3k. doesnt matter if its synth or dino as long as its easy to get consistently , fits your budget, meets the spec and you keep it topped off.
guys- he said tropics and then 0w-40?!
dude get some 10w-40 or 20w-50 in there and then buy the cheapest you can find and change it every 3k. doesnt matter if its synth or dino as long as its easy to get consistently , fits your budget, meets the spec and you keep it topped off.
Actually, 0w40 is about the same thickness of a 10w30 at low temp, and is always slightly thicker as temp increases.
In other words in the old days a straight SAE40 would be perfect to run in any engine started on a summer day with 80 ambient temp, but with the new ester blend molecules, a car can be started at like -20F and still act like that nice SAE40 at working temp.
It seems like many F1 teams and other racers are using 0w40, and many German car manufacturers require it for factory fill.
Last edited by REDRX3RX8; 01-25-2011 at 05:27 AM. Reason: sp
01-24-2011, 01:46 PM
#46
Please don't smite me, but as an Exxon fuel and oil distributor that went to an oil school for a week in Houston, I'll admit that my first thought with the new 0w40's was that it caters to low temps and won't keep film strength.
Actually, 0w40 is about the same thickness of a 10w30 at low temp, and is always slightly thicker as temp increases.
In other words in the old days a straight SAE40 would be perfect to run in any engine started on a summer day with 80 ambient temp, but with the new ester blend molecules, a car can be started at like -20F and still act like that nice SAE40.
Actually, 0w40 is about the same thickness of a 10w30 at low temp, and is always slightly thicker as temp increases.
In other words in the old days a straight SAE40 would be perfect to run in any engine started on a summer day with 80 ambient temp, but with the new ester blend molecules, a car can be started at like -20F and still act like that nice SAE40.
I put the 0w40 stuff in there.
Good stuff.
*back to hibernation*