This only happens if the car has been sitting for a little while. Anyone else encounter this problem? It is pretty damn loud and noticable. My RPM's shoot up to 2.5k and slow go back down to normal idle RPMs.

Any help ?

 

You have not done a search. That's why no one has responded.

 

I did one yesterday, but I got a weird error telling me I was only able to search once every x amount of seconds. I thought maybe the search engine was broken. Guess I'll try again.

Thanks for pointing in the right direction.

 

its the L flash..the computer waits 3 seconds to jump the RPMs up because on earlier calibrations, the computer dumped fuel in (to kick up the RPMs) as soon as the ignition was released, but not necessarily once the engine was turning and this resulted in flooding. its normal, all cars idle higher when cold

 

So this is normal. Is it something I should be worried about this or flooding?

 

nothing to worry about, it helps to reduce flodding.

but dont think you can shut the car down cold, thats a no no

 

If your talking about the slight whirring or grinding sound while idling it is normal. When you push in the clutch the sound goes away.

 

That is exactly what happens. This is my first time owning a stick, let alone a rotary. It is definitely an alarming sound, but it is good to know it is normal.

 

I have registered several complaints with my dealer regarding the above-mentioned noise. It is my opinion that the noise we hear is caused by the input shaft spinning when the clutch pedal is released while out of gear. Even though they say the noise is normal, I want to have a record of my complaints in case something happens to the trans.

Charles

 

Good luck Charles, let us know what becomes of it. There is a thread about this and some atribute it to the throw out bearing which many people say are common in Mazda Rotarys.

 

I tend to disagree on the noise being a t.o. bearing. I say this because the noise goes away when the clutch pedal is pressed. This would cause the input shaft to stop spinning and the throwout bearing is engaged on the clutch diaphragm. So, it seems to me the noise is present when the input shaft is turning without a load on it. Either way, the noise if awfully obnoxious and irritating when present. At least if I have a problem, the "concern" is well-documented by the dealer so they can't argue about my modifications being the cause.

C

 

A post was written by snap-on, that Mazda's response was a transmission gear roll-over noise which they said was a normal condition when the clutch pedal was not engaged. Although I agree it is quite loud and I had plenty of manual transmission cars that did not make a sound at all. I would just turn the stereo up. When you put in your SR flywheel and ACT clutch, can you still hear the noise?

 

New fly/clutch, same noise.

 

thanks for easing my noob nerves guys...i started hearing this same light grinding noise when i would release clutch in neutral after start-up and was thinking something was wrong.

 

ever since i bought my car i was unsure of the noise but its so common that i have not worried about it.... yet

 

hmm. they're dropping my tranny tomorrow to repair the t.o. bearing. the mazda mechanic came over and listened to it for 2 secs and determined that was the problem. supposedly, he's number 1 in the world.

the sound for me is more of a fast high pitched chirping. sounds a lot like a cricket. if you press in the clutch just slightly, it goes away.

however, when it is not making a chirping sound, there is another sound that can be made to go away by pressing in the clutch. it is more a medium pitch whirring. this one i think is in fact normal as i believe i have noticed it since i bought the car ... new.

You guys think i should switch back to the stock shifter for the warranty work?

 

^^ keep us informed on the swap, I know on a hot day after my car has been sitting in sun for long time, and engine is way cool. I hear the whirring noise/grinding when clutch is not engauged. The sound goes away once drive it for a couple miles. almost like the parts arnt lube up. It is kinda annoying and sounds horrible at times, but been there since day 1 (new) to 52k miles. So cant be anything really to worry about.... or should it...

 

i got my car back from teh dealer today. no more noise. clutch feels better too. i can provide part numbers if you guys are interested. all warranty.

however, as is to be expected i guess when you go to the dealer, they forgot to do something. they forgot to reconnect my intake. it was separated right in the middle.

when i picked it up, the idle was all over the place. they said i just needed to drive it for a while. i knew that was bullshit, but i was in a hurry and figured i could fix it when i got home.

i live an hour from the dealer. i noticed something was terribly wrong pretty quickly and called them to register my complaint. it was bogging down hard at 5k. it threw a cel (too rich bank 1) and died. it fired back up and i was able to make it home.

i figured something was wrong with the maf, maybe it was dirty, so i popped the hood to have a look. holy ****. to my horror, my intake was completely disconnected just below the maf sensor. luckily it's an easy fix and my car is fine now. but i'm sure i've caused some damage sucking in unfiltered air for an hour -- revving hard to "figure out what's wrong."

but i now know something else. if you suck in unfiltered air before the maf, you go rich bank 1. if suck in unfiltered air after the maf, like if your throttle body isn't capped, you go lean in bank 1. in both cases the ill effects are noticeable around 5k.

good to know, i guess.

p.s., i took it in with all the mods listed below installed -- i even had a map flashed. why? cuz i ******* rule and just don't give a ****.

 

^^submit those numbers if you have them because i need this work done... and did they just replace the T.O.B or did they do anything else... i am a victim of the cricket in the tranny

 

we'l do, man. sorry i didn;' see this sooner. third or forth thing i'll do tomorrow.

 

Any news on the part #s?

 

yep, you'l have them as soon as i get home.

 

okay, I'm sorry it took so long. They're calling this a" transmission bearing repair." I think it's the throw out bearing, but I'm not sure.

Here's the parts needed.
Clutch Rel: FE62-16-510C
Stud: N3H1-20-WAI
Nut: JE10-40-355

Good luck. I hope your issue gets resolved.

 

Thanks a lot!

 

Yeah Ive got the same noise everyone except my car warranty insurance company says it is the front bearing in my gearbox and even if I get it taken apart they will just say it is normal wear and tear ,leaving me with the whole bill to pay.Beware of Jenssen Car Insurance,next time I buy another car I will check who does their warranty insurance!!!!