I just ran the S2 pump on both engines (S1+II), that with a bit bigger pulley sorted it, probably not the best thing for a road car with the pump slowed down though.

 

Plus the S2 pump won't bolt up on the S1 front cover.

From left: S2 stock pump, S1 stock pump, S1 mazmart pump

 

Does if you own an angle grinder :D

 

what coolant ratio do you use on your car?

 

~30% antifreeze (sub zero temps overnight sometimes when it's parked up in service), rest just water.

 

He runs offroad race buggies, not an RX8

I give up, good luck noobie ...

 

How am I a noobie? I didn't know it was a race buggy lol

I was getting good info from some, then some of you want to bash me for not knowing something that you are also unsure about (aside from a race buddy).

I've been a member for over 4 years. I was just asking what fluids he runs, and it's basically what I was running. I do my research, I've been a full time technician for many years, owned many rotaries, and race my car regularly.

If you guys don't have the proper information, don't bother posting.

 

Team's just being his normal cheerful self - but he has a bit of a point, you don't need to worry about the fluid mix - just stick the MM pump in if you've already got it and go again, you'll find it doesn't have the same issues with the corrosion there, just because of the taper on the vanes - the pressure drop is much more gradual as it passes the wall.

 

OK, I'm hesitant to reply given how this thread has gone, but you asked me to explain and I will try.


I'm not well versed in Impeller design, so it sounds like you may know more than I on this. I'm trying to increase the pressure reading at the inlet to the impeller, to prevent cavitation, by removing any restrictions, such as a small hose, collapsed hose, or restricted fitting. If you say this will happen with this type of impeller no matter the inlet pressure, then were chasing ghosts. It looks like both the S2 and MM pumps use different impellers, and I would start there first.


I've never seen cavitation like this in a auto application before, (that doesn't exclude it from happening obviously).

 

Thank you.

 

Well, proper coolant helps prevent damage from cavitation. He was running almost all water aside from 10% P-OAT coolant (FL22) and the snake oil. But according to him, running almost basically pure water is not a water problem and common practice on the track.

 

I was just being my practical self and am tired of trying to help people who don't know enough to discern between informed help and either irrelevant chatter or outright bs. This is why I generally won't be replying to most threads in either this or the troubleshooting forum any more. Exceptions wil be made for certain people I have enough confidence in, but otherwise for rest of you I don't have any need to prove anything, it's not my problem, and I wish you and all the other poorly informed enthusiasts well.

 

I would go along with the cavitation diagnosis. The stock pump will cavitate around 7K and up. That is related to the coolant light coming on at those speeds before complete failure. The Mazmart pump fixes this. There is a really cool thread with some nice analysis from, I believe, Legot. A good read. You just have to sort out all of us throwing rocks at each other. Bottom line, I had huge over heating issues above 7k. The pump sorted it instantly. The flow is a little lower, but it still flows at high RPM. An under-drive pulley will move the cavitation point up, but the analysis says that you need to drop the speed 25% or more to get rid of it. That reduces flow down low too much in my opinion.

 

His coolant choice is an important factor in this happening as well. Running almost all water is a bad idea , plain and simple.