Well derr!!!...

Yeah and a 4 hour commute can be 20 or 400 KMS
Forget it mate..you don't want to see what I am saying...typical POM ;)

I most countires that is found not to be the case..
Here about a third is Tax..

The car's probably using just as much fuel if you're doing 5mph in rushhour traffic for 30 miles as it is on a long 60mph cruise for 100 miles....


Just because the country is bigger doesn't mean people travel for longer :yelrotflm

And to think I used to complain spending $400.00 a month on gas when I was doing an 80 mile a day commute. In your country it would have been $1200.00 a month :crying:

REDRX3RX8 was kind enough to share his UOA, take a look.
http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...42a7d2ef73.jpg

Interesting. Did anyone post results of dino diesel 15w40 oil with 3k+ miles? I saw that OD posted his results which held the viscosities in range, but that was only with 1k miles.

Also, is anyone running Mobil's synthetic diesel? What is the viscosity range, and is it a full "real" syn?

No but all UOA's are welcome and appreciated. Mine has been sent, I should get it soon.

Oil viscosity in range
 

Oh, really?

What range viscosity do you want? Do you want the 7 to 8cst@ 100C of 5w20 or the 15 to 16cst @ 100c of 20w50? Yeah, Mobil 1 0w40 spec sheet says approx 14cst@100c, but thats just candy and nuts, and the specs show way over a 10w30. My report still had a some 5w20 and the usual fuel dump even though I was real careful to heat up car before sampling.

People that bring up (didn't stay in range) are have 40 year old info from Andy Granatelli selling STP viscosity improver. These new 0w oils get the weight from good chemistry buildup not just throwing in extra vi improver which can cause hard carbon.

Your knee seems a little jerky.

This isn't the first UOA that I've seen showing the Mobile1 0w-40 thins out to a high 30w oil from the 40w range. Sure the fuel dilution didn't help but overall this oil does seem to lose a bit of it's viscosity over time.

Still, when we're talking about 1 to 2 cSt of viscosity loss that's really not a huge deal. Even less when you're looking at that loss occurring over 4,000 miles of use.

As for Diesel oil...just remember that oil choice comes down to application. You can run just about anything off the shelf in your motor and you'll be ok but some stuff is simply a better fit for how you use the car.

sorta like asking what car is best---well it depends. Use the uoa to develop your trend--dont take just a single reading.
uoa can be tricky.
OD

Take a look at my analysis I had done on 15W40 with 3k on it. It still was within range. There is a link to my post on the first page of this thread.

Dang dude, I missed that post. Thanks!!

Care to share your driving habits? Viscosity is low.

https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...2&d=1212701531

rx8convert22 15w40
 

This uoa is from your 5w30 @ 14k, and with the usual excess fuel looks like 0w20. I saw your uoa on your Shell Rotella 15w40 diesel oil with 12.5 cst@100c, and you have found your oil.

I know a guy in West Texas with the usual Chevy pu with 350 v8 that is still running at around 1/2 million miles without any internal work using Rotella 15w40.

You and olddragger are onto something because its over kill additives @ good price.

I run 0w40 Mobil 1 because it tests about 12cst @ 100c to maybe stop that front stationary bearing wear, and it tested the most hp and torque of many heavy weight in a dyno test.

;)

Well, I'm still split between sticking with Rotella 15-40, and switching to Mobil1 0-40. But the good news is that they both sound solid for the Renesis. Maybe I'll run a 50/50 blend of the two.

Hey RX8Convert22, you mind if the mods merge our two threads? I didn't realize you had started one and there is some great info there as well.

Question: Shouldn't we be looking at wear metals in addition to viscosity, in order to get a better grip on the bearing wear issue?

yes.
and that SHOULD be viscosity related.

^and additive.

:sad:

Wear metals were high in my GC 0W-30 and the were slightly higher in the 15W-40 vs. the Mobil1 0W-40 results posted by REDRX3RX8. I wish we could create some type of comparison chart for the renny. There are a lot of variables here.

It will take a tremendous amount of data to prove meaningful correlations between viscosity & bearing wear via UOA. Case in point, if I'm not mistaken, one of the reports on this thread with the lowest Iron content is somebody running Castrol 5w20.

I still think UOAs are good idea, and I'll post my results here soon. But, an enterprising person could start a spreadsheet and collect the data as it is entered, and over time we could, perhaps, begin to see trends.

yep--- its more trend related for that particular engine that on a unified grand scale of things.
With enough data maybe some specific cooralation could be done--but yes i agree it would take a lot.

One thing I believe that has already become apparent ---the viscosity showings are mostly so far not standing up as some may think?
The flash points are lower than some may think also?
When it comes to wear metals---a LOT has to taken into consideration--including air filtration
driving enviroment, temps, adverage load on engine etc. I know you can make a case on the same affecting viscosity and it does but you can have wear metals without viscosity probs but not the otherway around?
OD

Once again George thank you for being a voice of reason.

Ok Fellas!! Got a present today.
http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...7c7e5be4d3.jpg

nice Z&P levels.
and this is a synthetic --right?
i dont have the ability to scan mine in but i will type it out

Brand new engine
oil use interval 2K (after the 1st 500 miles with break in OIL)
diesel oil 15w/40
al--1
chr-5
iron-19
copper-2
lead-15
tin-1
moly-12
nickel 1
magenese 0
silver--0
Titanium and potasium --o
boron--44
silicon--10
sodium 6
calcium 1098
manesium-620
phos-912
zinc--1050
barium-0

sub viscosity at 210F = 61.0 should be 70-81
cST vis at 100C =10.50 --should be 12.9-16
flashpoint 355 should be greater than 390
fuel % 1.8%

not too bad for a new engine.
next will be maybe in 2 weeks and i am waiting to see if my higher oil temps have improved the fuel percentage.
OD

Yeah this is Mobil1 0W-40 with 2500 miles on it. I am actually disappointed about the fuel dilution since I specifically stopped warming my car up by idling and now I have more fuel in my oil. I will go back to warming up fully before leaving and then we will see next time.

But, the Mobil1 0W-40 did way better at 2500 miles than the highly acclaimed GC 0W-30 did at a measly 1500 miles.

Just email it to me dude and I will delete all of your personal data and post it up.

networkplus.scott@gmail.com

i didnt get an e mail notification from blackstone---got it in the regular mail.
ODiti

Oh, for mine they do both. I like the email version because you get it sooner and I am inpatient, haha.


What are your thoughts on the higher fuel percentage on this oil considering I stopped cold idling and started driving around the neighborhood slowly to warm her up?

This morning was the coldest day we have seen in San Antonio in years at 26F and it took over ten minutes for the oil to get to the 150F range. My car didn't move until then and the coolant was at about 165F at that point.

^Question about your new habits - would you say that your engine is running shorter, longer, or about the same period of time in your commute, when comparing your old vs. new habits? Include idle & drive time.

same every day--now i just keep my revs up a little more and the oil cooler blockers i have are finally getting my temps up.
i will bet my next uoa will be better and have less fuel.
with uoa it is also better to change just one thing at the time.

My engine would be running a little less because before i would let it sit and idle for 10 minutes or so until it warmed up fully. Now I drive around a little until its warmed up a bit and then hit the road. I'm back to just letting it idle until its warmed up fully.

I would stick with the strategy of warming up with a light load. It is more effective at warming up the engine.

I bet it is the way the apex seals are working (really how they are not going to perfectly seal the combustion area from the non-combustion area) that causes the problem. Then the question would be - during what mode does the most gas get thru? Idling, pig-rich full throttle, cruising at 3,000 rpm, cold weather. I am not knowledgeable enough to understand which of these would exacerbate the problem.

And since I am still in the honeymoon phase with my car, I am still enjoying its idiosyncrasies!

After the direct injection (reciprocating) engines came out, I know I saw something about gas dilution with them too. I think people were saying some oils could cope with it better than others.

Yes the Mobil1 0W-40 handles it well as the viscosity is in a very acceptable level after 2500 miles but I will not go over 3,000 on an oil change.

I will run a UOA on my current oil. I am borrowing OD's idea of Rotella, except that I found 10W30. I assume it still has a higher amount of zinc and phosphorus, but I won't know for a couple more months. I am doing an in-between start up procedure. For my cold start/commute, I do let it idle for a minute, then drive a few blocks slowly, then get on the freeway after 2 miles but don't rev beyond 4,000 for about 5 miles. At the end of my commute, I run it up to 7,000 a couple of times.

On Friday when i started my car at work (sitting at about 5 degrees all day) the engine cranked a tiny bit longer and when it started it went to 4,000 for a bit, then down to like 1300. Is that one of the oem starups or was something wrong?

The car has been pulsing more at idle lately - that had gone away after i started premixing and changed the plugs. It was worse right when i got the car at the end of Oct with 33k on it. I assume its missing.

Interesting. I wonder if it's simply a matter of how long the engine runs every time you start it. Makes sense, given the (low) oil temp data we have been seeing with these cars in a cold climate. At those lower temps, it just takes longer to thermally cleanse the oil.

Thats my point!
now that i can routinely get my temps to 190F i am seeing much less condensation on the dipstick---much less and sometimes totally gone.
Car runs better with oil temps 180 and above.
Hey Dude the 10w30 is not diesel oil --diesel will be a 15w/40.
OD

Diesel mo weights
 

Shell Roella T5 has 10w40 and 10w30 with most diesel manufactorers specs. With Rotella Triple T more engine builders approve 15w40 than 10w30.

Mobil 1 0w40 is also CF spec for diesel engines especially car diesels, but probably less of the good stuff, since trucks can run their oil 40,000 or 50,000 miles between changes.

Notice that the zinc phos on my uoa 0w40 is fairly low which should be fine since we don't have sliding cams to worry about, and it'll go easy on the cat. It does have a lot of moly and boron is also for anti-wear.

This forum gave me lots of simple tips like premix, dewall the air box, take out the left floor rest, magnets on oil filter, etc.

I bought some 1"x2" magnets at Lowes hardware and put on all my cars oil filters. I think you can lower iron particles, and it might help some.

Just got my shipment of 09' Filters from Paul today :)

My bottles do say Rotella T Triple Protection. Is T5 the synthetic version of Rotella?

Then I am out of luck - my car turns over slower just from switching from 5W30 to 10W30. My next choice would then need to be synthetic.

Shell Rotella T5 is synthetic blend diesel spec oil 10w30 and 10w40.

Shell Rotella T6 is full synthetic diesel spec oil 5w40.

Shell Rotella Triple T is dino diesel spec oil 15w40 and 10w30.

Seriously? The viscosity will not effect starting.

Of course it does.

Thats EXACTLY the point of having a lower COLD viscosity.

Doesn't make a difference in San Antonio, but shure as hell does in Montreal.

Diesel can be anything, we can get 0w-30 oil for diesels over here just the same as you can for a petrol engine...

Only in very, very, very cold climates I suppose. Let's find out where he is from.

Minnesnowta. Minne-below-ta as in below zero every morning the last week. We will have an above average 30 degree high on Tues!!!

well learn something everyday.
I did not know you could get a 10W 30 diesel oil. well- now i know you can--but it is not certified for all diesel use like the 15W/40 is. I will stick with the common vis.
I dont go into the synthetics-- i stick with petro since i change oil so often.

Just curious,

Has anyone sent their same sample to more than one oil analysis labs? It would be interesting to see the variation in testing methods. I wouldn't be surprised if there is a belief that the test results are rock solid and 100% accurate.

Redundant testing would show this. Just curious.

Eric--- agreed. But, to me it is sort of like dynoing a car. Stick with one dyno/lab as the results are unque (to a point) to your vechicle. So its really not a "finding/result" I am looking for, its a trend.
So many things can influence a uao.
But it does give me something to do while I making a mess.
OD

Actually I have read that there can be some discrepancies in the testing that make the results useless so I do plan on sending a sample to another lab I am trying to find another lab with reasonable prices. Any recommendations? I also plan on sending a virgin sample in for testing I am just wondering if I should tell Blackstone it is used oil just to see what results I get.