And motorcycles that share gear oil with the crankcase.
And the old A-series engine.

Not everyone is showing the wear doc. My chromium was very low. And like I said the silicon rating in mine is thrown off do to all the excess RTV silicone that was used during the rebuild. I have tested many samples and for the most part the synthetics just do better in my car. I will post up the results of my Mobil1 0W-40 as soon as I get it back.

Like it has been said before, the numbers on the bottle do not mean much. Pick a good oil, use it, change it often, test it, and if it performs well use it. If not, try something else. And if you are not premixing and/or running the SOHN then you are on borrowed time.

Fuel is difficult to measure. Since it is volitile, time effects how much is in the oil at the time of the test. I just know mine is high and it hurts the viscosity of the oil. So I need to balance the expense of changing oil every 2,000 to keep it from getting too bad vs the wear on my engine of a longer interval with more fuel degradation.

I think direct injection engines are having problems with fuel in the oil too. I just wish I new of what oil(s) can deal with it better.

yeah the fuel issue was worrying me but the last couple of tests have not shown a problem with fuel. I have made some changes in terms of tunes but nothing that should have effected excess fuel in the oil. I am actually getting my injectors cleaned, balanced, and flow tested soon so we will see what effect that has if any at all.

These tests are also less acurate because well we aren't sending in oil filters. I am going to talk to the company we send the aircraft oil into and see what they have on file. When aircraft oil is sent in, we also have to send in the oil filter. They pull all the particulates out of the filter and measure the entire system, not just a crank case sample. I will get a hold of them and see what they can do, its a bit more money, but the results are a lot more advanced as well.

I should also note that I have hard drive magnets on my oil pan around the drain plug and on the oil filter.

Yeah thats going to capture all those metals :P

Yeah, I know they won't but I wonder what real effect they have on the test results. I do know cutting the filter open shows the pasty build up that is metal.

Very cool! The guy (Terry Dyson) that does the high end analysis for Blackstone charges $100. I toy'ed with the idea of doing that, but decided the kids college was more important. It would be fun though to learn more.

I wasn't running magnets at the time of the above oil test, but I do now. It cost me $35 and I know it catches some crap.

Does the oil in our filters come in thru the middle and then out thru the media? If so, the stuff the magnets collect would have gone around again.

I bought 4 strong 1" x 1.5" magnets at Lowes and put 2 on the oil filters of each vehicle I have. On the 8, I had to put a large tie to keep them on straight (g forces).

I'm testing about half the iron that others are, and I intend on running 5k miles oil changes.

On my Dodge Dakota 4.7l v8 I run 10k on the same oil with same good results.

To me the magnets are close to theoretical BS, but I think they keep a few iron particles straight jacketed; I've seen a filter opened that had a magnetized pattern of iron on the inside (not mine).

magnets are not bs.
You would be surprised at how often the oil filter is bypassed by the oil in our engine. Yep that is right. Oil is flowing without going through the filter medium. That is one reason that Mazda redesigned the oil system in the S2 model. Read about it.
I use the filter mag that summit racing sells---great little gadget. When I cut the first filter open after running it --i saw hard evidence that it works. There was a thin film of pasty material everywhere the magnet touched. This is with a 3K mile oil change.
I dont run a car without a strong magnet in the oil system somewhere.
OD

The ones I bought supposedly are designed for high temps. I don't know if that is a real issue or not, but these buggers are strong. They are from www.kjmagnetics.com. I lay them vertically around just under 1/2 of the outside of the filter.

OD, I hear ya!

I like a simple mod like the magnets that helps some and anyone can do.

:lol: try SCSI hard drive magnets. I accident dropped one and it attached itself to the firewall and I had to use a flat head and pliers to remove it.

Mine have been on several filters and on the pan for a long time now. They are hard as hell to remove from the pan and the filter on purpose so there is no chance they are falling off due while driving.

Ebay's not bad for Neo magnets, just make sure you get ones with a decent temperature rating...

summitracing.com has magnets designed for race conditions. you can get them at 75lbs of force or 150lbs. Good luck getting that off if you accidently drop it.

If you guys want I can get my hands on some hard drive magnets. All it would cost you is shipping.

have you guys ever thought of blocking the oil coolers in cold weathers so all the oil could get move around to get the petrol out?

I did that and it wasn't enough. It is amazing - I can drive all the way to work and not get to 180 degrees. My drive is 27 miles one way on the freeway.

OldDragger went one step further and blocked both the front and back of his last winter. One person suggested to me to insulate my oil pan during winter. I haven't gone further than just blocking the coolers. I also make an extra effort to warm it up by accelerating harder near the end of my drive.

I currently have my radiator 100% blocked (some air still gets around the block, obviously), and one cooler blocked and water temp stays right at 180-185 down to 20° or less. I keep them blocked until the temp gets above 50°. Before I started blocking my temps would be 150-160° in anything below about 40°.

Note that the excessive cooling capacity is a good thing. Mazda learned the lesson the hard way with the FD where there wasn't nearly enough.

I can drive at 80mph with 70 deg ambient, and my water temp stays around 179-181; right around temp for thermostat opening.

Cool enough, eh?

Ganseg, if you look on BITOG, many fuel injected cars give 1.8% fuel in the oil; not just something the 8 does.

Your solution is easy.

Run 40 weight oil, and since you're in really cold winter country, run 0w40.

It'll still flow and crank at any temp that you'll go outside.

9cst is too thin for the 8; it needs to test at at least 12cst.

I did go to synthetic 0W40 for winter. Still need to decide if I will do heavy conventional in summer or do synthetic year around. The guy that sells Legend 2 stroke oil says synthetics being injected or premixed build up a surface that for some reason isn't conducive to a seal. Strangely enough, after 800 miles of using Legend SR 2T, my car started pulling harder. I don't think it was just psycho, because I wasn't even thinking about it at the time. So how this relates is while I am running synthetic in my pan, I am pumping in synthetic while I am premixing the Legend SR.

Yeah, See you're doing everything right: you can tell that premixing helps. I use Mobil 1 MX2t (stash since discontinued), Mobil 1 0w40 (pan and injected-no sohn).

So my 07 6spd auto uses about 1/2 quart in 2k miles counting days not tracking which is almost nothing. I make sure that I mix enough 4-6oz. per 12 gal. tank to use a quart of 2t in 2k miles, so my theory is that at twice more use of premix should over power any sump injected oil residew. (Or also do a track day once a month.)

When multi grade oils showed up in the 60's they would take (and still do) a light oil like 10w and add viscosity index improvers (stp) to get it to not thin out too much at operating temps.

STP is known to cause hard carbon, but the modern synthetics are made outta ester mixtures. They used to have seal swelling issues, but most refiners fixed that with the right mixture now.

Most marketers don't known their product (sorta like car salemen) so just keep premixing, run any synthetic, and don't worry.

I use 0w40 year round; in fact for a whole year for 5k miles and several track days.

My UOA is as good as it gets, and I'm at not even close to the silicon (dirt) limit of 12 or any metal wear issues.

can you post your UOA here?

Also I would love to see an UOA of the engine that had low compression

I plan on starting UOAs once I start changing. We'll try at 3,000 first and see how it looks. Just put Valvoline 10w40 synthetic in.