Thanks for the input, god, but this thread is not for debating the value of oil reports, it's for comparing them. :suspect:
We went down that path and expended a bunch of posts on it already. Go back and read 'em so we don't have to go down it again. ;)

And if you haven't ever blown up a rotary, you're not pushing hard enough on the right pedal. :mdrmed: (Me neither. Never blown one up yet. :wink2:)

It's freaking oil ;) It is always way cheaper than engines :)

Pick an oil and change interval that fits your philosophy and stick to it......

Personally I like 5-40 full synthetic...and fancy expensive oil filters :)

But I also built a 300 lb doghouse...best damn doghouse you ever saw.. radiant heated floor, insulated, nice roof....removable top for cleaning.....but it didn't keep the dog from getting hit by a car :)

Back on-topic...

This change was done prematurely as I had run a bunch of track days (5?) on it and wanted to change it before running a bunch more. Viscosity was still not great. All previous tests were done with 10W-30.
https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1295570461

Hmm 1500 miles and your viscosity stayed up. I might try a 2000 mile change with those results and see what happens. Mine dropped to 6 lol.

I do see you are running Rotella T though, So I am guessing you have no cat right?

I have always used uoa like i would use a dyno. it is user specific.
I was eating up viscoisty in 1.5K miles with 10/40 castrol gt. So I switched to deisal Rotella with good results. My cst stays up ok with it, valvoline racing 20/50 and the higher viscosity synthetics. I havent tried Mobil one
i was also curious to fuel dilution especially after tracking. I did have a very small issue.
Needed to really get my oil temps up.
I do not run a cat.
Its a tool can can be used

So your viscosity was falling off a bit. So what? What happened? What was it causing? A viscosity number falling off doesn't mean anything if it isn't hurting anything. It doesn't even imply anything bad is happening. If cSt got down to 2, then I'd be scared. If it was falling from 10 to 8, big deal.

mine dropped to 6 which I think is a bit low.

RG I had more than 30% copper showing on the front bearing on 2 engines that had less than 40K miles on them.

It is interesting that your viscosity numbers with the heavier oil aren't that much higher, especially since the other numbers responded so well. Did you have twice as many track days on the previous OCIs?

wankelbolt,

Considering that Rotella T 15w40 has about a 15cst @100C, that 9cst @ 100C that Blackstone measured is really low.

I can see that there's some gas from prior changes, but not enough to hurt, and even many piston engines show that much.

My point is that your oil analysis should show about 12 or 13 cst even considering that you only drain about 60% oil out each time.

So if you're running the second batch of rotella T 15w40, the viscosity ought to be right by now.

I will note that I actually drain 5.5 quarts for each go around. Not just a drain and fill, but I get the car up at an angle to drain oil coolers as well. So instead of the normal 3 quart I get almost all but 1.5 quart out on average. I actually take the time to drain the coolers.

you can actually get more oil out by not using the oil drain plug. Use a vacuum pump instead.
When we Ga club guys had a tuner session and several of us installed Mazmarts oil bypass mod we measured what was left in the pan after fulling draining it through the oil plug. We have pics on that thread somewhere=look it up-- it will surprise you.
OD

I just got a Mityvac oil extractor for Christmas, I'm itching to use it. I may just change my oil just to try it :lol:

Okay here are the results from the last run of Rotells T6 5W-40. Looks pretty good. Glad to see my fuel dilution percentage is down. That was worrying me.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5405404751/
The silicone is still high but my bet is that it is due to the excessive amount of RTV used by the reman plant when they rebuilt the engine.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/4453405582/

I realize we are in different climates but mine looks alot worse with the Rotella 10W30.

Interesting. Different formulation? What type of driving do you do daily? I always let my car warm up before going anywhere. I have a short drive to work so by letting her get all the way warm, I can rev her out on the access road in front of my office and get oil temps in the 200F range.

My trip to work is 27 miles one way - mostly freeway. My oil was tested during the winter and my car takes 10 miles to get up to temp. Mine was a conventional oil and the viscosity was below what I want after 2,000 miles. My fuel dilution was higher - strange given no idling.

you may have a clogged injector, getting a lot of blow by or your crankcase is not getting vented well?

Okay guys, here is a sample I ran for Grungepup. He has a 2007 GT with about 40k on the original engine. He changes the oil every 3k and up until 36,000 miles it was dealer 5W20.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5407309753/

please dont hate me for asking :lol: how do I go about getting my oil tested?

I live in Tampa, FL and use RP 5w20 while using Idemitsu through a sohn

Seriously dude? I mean the phone number and website are on every report posted in this thread.

I noticed that after posting :rofl:

Everyones report is showing the levels of "wear" they said I have. But why are our levels all high :P I have now gotten a chance to see other reports showing high levels of chrome and iron. Or what they call high? Plus they are claiming the fuel issue which we just can't avoid. All of us have levels of fuel city driving or not. Maybe we should call them and have them take a look into it.

Just ordered my kit, I have about 2000 miles left before an oil change but I am interested to see the readings on a 4500mi engine

Doc I think a couple of things are going on that are showing these results?
1st--those big ole stationary gears ( particular only to the rotary engine) are chewing up our oil. Its like asking a motor oil to do a transmissions work?
2- It is more difficult to adequently vent this crankcase than many may think. The stock system sucks.
3- most people have not added a magnet to their oil systems. To me that is a no brainer.
4- premature front bearing wear has shown up in many engines. Its important to get the oil flow up and to use the right film strenght oil.
Any way talking about oil is a real slippery subject.
OD