olddragger

iTrader: (3)

Any idea what this could be?--under heavy load say 1/2 throttle i have a rattle somewhere in the trans---any gear(except reverse). Shifts fine--new throwout and pilot shaft bearing and pressure plate and clutch.
Puzzles the hell out of me. i thought my ppf adjustment was off a little and i readjusted and it did go away for a short time but now it is back.
olddragger

~0zzygirl~

^Me too, I've noticed recently. Mine only happens in 3rd gear.

Thought it was the engine knocking until I realized it went away when I changed to another gear or put into neutral. Also getting a lot more whine in some other gears and shifting has gone downhill since switching to RP MaxGear about a year/24k miles ago. I'm going to flush out my fluid and switch to Amsoil 75W-90 (GL-4) to see if it helps since there seems to be some debate about the GL4 vs GL5 types. I will say, the knocking has been a little more quiet since the temps have gone up some.

Hopefully somebody has some advice.

Derex'8

iTrader: (4)

I have the same problem mine is really noticeable at idle and low speed.

Adjusted PPF...sorry but what is that?

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

power frame--i just remeasured mine again and it has slipped again---1/2 inch off---will readjust and see if that helps.
olddragger

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

re-tighting
1-top part of ppf near the diff closest stud to the diff 1st
2-bottom part near the diff
3- the middle bolt near the diff
then i remeasure---then
4-top near the trans
5- bottom near the trans.
I got it adjusted ok today AND i think I found the rattle--my clutch petal feels good, releasing at the right spot, full release and engagement. But it seems that there is play between the clutch cable and the throwout bearing fork. I can move it very easily with 2 fingers. That may be the rattle. I am going to drive her --let the rattle come on and then just push the clutch petal a little and see if putting tension on it causes the noise to go away.
Just got back from road atlanta and the mitty--talked to a bunch of people and heard 4 rotor cars running---sweet!
olddragger

swoope

iTrader: (5)

clutch cable? maybe a 10 and 12 mm wrench and adjust the pedal?

beers

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

OK Ray cough up the factory way!
One of my differences is with the resonated midpipe the tunnel members do not clear without spacers. So it is a measurement thing for me.
Now i dont torque to standard on my 1st snug up.
Swoope---exactly work on today---was at Mitty yesterday !
olddragger

Cody Red

so uh, what is the proper way Charles? I've had this rattle since i had the flywheel put in on my car (diy). Need to get this taken care of.

maybe i should look at the fsm?

i could just look for the torque numbers, but it'd be nice to post for everyone else to see

wcs

iTrader: (2)

wow, thanks Ray
good read

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

Hmmmmm---so the trick is to learn how to get that taped cross bolt right---correct? Or does the PPF position itself in accordance to the torque on that cross bolt!! Sum Bitch!! Thats nice to know ---thanks ray---now i can start some local arguments!! JK----maybe!!
By the way i have a data logger now --so in doing the track comparison, it will now be very easy to show the benefit.
By the way my clutch needed bleeding and adjusting.

olddragger

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

Hey--- that will be great.!
OD

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

it may be a little low to the ground to crawl under and in RR remeber we are on sand and grass! But if we have a chance ----sure!
The rattle was the throwout bearing arm being to loose--its gone after a slave cylinder bleed and pedal adjustment.
Others may want to check theirs.
OD

Razz1

Sounds like my 65 Ford Econoline.

anthonyallred

IF the PPF were not positioned correctly could it cause the bellhousing seals to leak? I have a similar rattle and my one seal is starting to seep.

Carbon8

iTrader: (4)

If the PPF was not aligned properly is could bend your input shaft, and destroy a pilot bearing as well as the rear main seal and the transmission seal itself.

Reiterate what I stated before and the is their should be no fluid in the bellhousing at anytime.

Sounds like one of your seals is toast, just need to figure out if its oil or trany fluid.

Also note that a loose oil filter could result in a leak that can seep down into the bellhousing as well, good way to burn up a clutch I might add.

anthonyallred

Got it re aligned last night finally and it made a world of difference. Was 3/4" out. Shouldn't have waited so long but its perfectly in spec now. My shifter seems so high now. :-) hopefully didnt do any damage going 5000km with it out.

emargoli

I know this is an old post, but it sounds close to my issue and need some help before I take the tranny out again.

I just replaced my clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, and pilot bearing myself. It shifts great and drives great, but I just noticed last night when I had the car parked and running with my door open, that there's an intermittent rattle. I know that these are not connected in anyway, but when the A/C compressor kicks off, the rattle starts and when the A/C kicks back on, it stops. I shot a quick video where you can hear the rattle start and stop. Any ideas that will keep me from taking it all apart again would be appreciated.

logalinipoo

Tirn your car off then kick the muffler tips. If you hear it then its probably the heat shield above the exhaust

emargoli

Thanks logalinipoo!. Kicked it and that wasn't it. But check this out.
I started checking to see if anything was loose and there was some play on the clutch fork. I'm thinking that would definitely make some rattle noise. I checked the clutch release cylinder and was able to push the push rod in with very little force with one finger. I went back inside the car and not the pedal is on the floor. I started the up and was able to pump the clutch and get some pressure built back in. I got back under the car and was again able to push the push rod in. I pretty sure that I shouldn't be able to do this, with a finger, right? I'm assuming that the clutch release cylinder or the clutch master cylinder is bad, right?

logalinipoo

bad or it needs a good bleed. it's hard to get it blead well. did you disconnect the line when you replaced the clutch? I am having issues with my clutch not working when it's hot also, The only place I found to buy them was advanced and they just canceled my backorder a few days ago.

emargoli

I didn't disconnect it, I actually used a couple zip ties to hold the push rod in place while I replaced the clutch. It felt a little soft after the replacement and since I hate bleeding the clutch line, I bit the bullet and took it to the dealership and had them bleed the clutch. Funny thing was that when I picked it up, they recommended that I replace the clutch and pressure plate. I so frustrated, don't know whats going on here. BTW Autozone has the clutch release cylinders.