As stated, "out of the box" it detects the mazda specific pids without any hassle. If you rebuild your android with any frequency remotely close to me, you'll quickly grow tired of having to always recreate the profile. Tools like Titanium Backup are good -- but only when you remember to use them and don't save you under all situations

if $$$ drove all my decisions I certainly wouldn't own a rotary. By looking over Juan's list (I'm series 1) I'm not sure if fuel pressure is present. I have the Windows Parmer software w/ Mazda expansion and don't believe its listed -- could be wrong though.

The only one I recognize not listed above is the Open/Closed loop indicator ... although you may be able to derive it from the Open Loop AFR pid.

The skin editor is pretty neat too. You can re-arrange, or completely rebuild the skin as you wish. I've pulled things out that we can't track such as boost and fuel pressure and have consolidated a couple of the panels -- and flat out removed others such as all the silly fuel consumption stuff.

I still do fire up torque... don't get me wrong, but the dash command stuff is a bit more fancy. It manages CELs a bit more intuitively than torque too and its built in CEL database is bit more comprehensive than the torque one -- even when you use torque's "web" search.

Remember, I typed "IMHO" :)

Understood, Torque also has open loop/closed loop built in and reads it without having to enter in a PID. His list was the one's you have to manually type in and the FP doesn't work.

yup ... i guess for me the $35 dollars (amounts to nothing compared to what I paid for the Windows software) for DC is reasonable for not having to deal with recreating profiles and having a bit more flexibility in skin design -- although torque's WYSIWYG interface is far from bad itself.

Torque will now also mask the CEL - Go to Settings / Speech and alarms / Select Periodically check for faults / & enable Automatically clear faults (Only been released in the last month)

Doesn't clearing a CEL also reset things like STFT and LTFT?

Don't know - I would be surprised if it did - I'm using to clear the CAT and the fact that I'm using D585 coils - Will have to test it to see as I dont currently monitor these ...

Teh only way from what I've read to clear the STFT & LTFT is to do the following (Unless you have a Cobb I guess) - I found this in another post

NVRAM (Non Volatile Random Access Memory)
NVRAM is a rather unique feature. The system memorizes the profile of the eccentric shaft plate on the e-shaft pulley. It basically knows how the e-shaft spins, on an individual basis, 2 cars NVRAM will generally never be absolutely identical, they’re pretty close to unique.

As you’d imagine with such a specialized system you wouldn’t want this information relearned and forgotten very easily, relearning the profile isn’t a short process (drive cycle, dont worry you dont do anything special to relearn it). So this info is kept in a special area of the PCM it CANNOT be cleared in any way EXCEPT the proper procedure, you could disconnect the battery and do a jig for a year and it won’t erase.

When/Why should you erase the NVRAM?
Realistically there are only a few times, generally the only times it’s really needed is when replacing a motor since you’ll be installing a new e-shaft position plate. Sometimes you’ll also repair a misfire, yet the misfire code will return even with you not noticing anything, in those cases clearing the NVRAM will sometimes help. Also during PCM replacement it’s good to clear it.

How do you reset NVRAM?
Here it is straight from mazda:

NOTE:2004-2008 and 2009 and later model year procedures are different.

2004-2008 Method

1. Turn ignition switch to “ON” position, but do not start engine.
2. Pump the brake pedal at least 20 times within 8 seconds after the ignition switch is turned ON.

NOTE:
Manual transmission equipped vehicles produced after VIN 40132647 and automatic transmission equipped vehicles produced after VIN 40132607 or vehicles with PCM updated to “L” calibration or later can confirm the clearing procedure was performed. If procedure was successful, the oil pressure gauge needle will move to right of center slightly (nearer H).
Vehicles produced prior to these VIN’s or vehicles without “L” calibration do not have an indicator to confirm the clearing procedure was performed.

3. Drive vehicle and confirm misfire related DTCs are not stored.

NOTE:
If the malfunction cannot be corrected even though the procedure was successful, the eccentric shaft position plate may be damaged. Inspect the eccentric shaft position plate. Refer to MS3 online instructions or Workshop Manual section 01-40 ECCENTRIC SHAFT POSITION PLATE INSPECTION and repair as necessary.

2009-2010 Method

1. Record customer radio station presets (FM1/2, AM, SAT).
2. Disconnect negative battery cable for a minimum of 1 minute.
With negative battery cable disconnected, depress and release brake pedal one time.
3. Reconnect negative battery cable.
4. If equipped with DSC, perform the STEERING ANGLE SENSOR INITIALIZATION PROCEDURE located in MS3 online instructions or Workshop Manual section 04-15.
5. Input customer radio station presets.
6. Initialize power windows. Refer to MS3 online instructions or Workshop Manual section 09-12 POWER WINDOW INITIALIZATION PROCEDURE.

KAM (Keep Alive Memory)
Keep alive memory is not named because it keeps the car alive, rather it’s named after the way it works. When you remove the battery terminals from the battery you’d assume all power in the car is lost right, hell your clock resets so the PCM must too, right? WRONG. KAM is saved by “Keep Alive” power, reserve battery power if you will.

KAM generally doesn’t store very important stuff, other then the airbag operating on KA power they dont store anything in the KAM tho they just use the same reserve power. The main thing KAM stores are things like fuel trims etc. It’s useful to reset KAM when you have lean/rich codes where the fuel trims have been able to reach 25%. It takes a while even after repair for the fuel trims to go back to proper levels, if you clear the KAM it will reset them to 0%.

How do you reset KAM?
Two easy ways, disconnect the battery and leave it like that for at least 10 minutes, sometimes longer. To expedite the process disconnect the battery and hold down the brake pedal, itll drain the KA power quicker. This will allow all codes to clear and KAM to clear.

After some research, at this time, it seems pulling the Room Fuse on the interior fusebox will also clear only the KAM. Not 100% sure yet, but pretty close

It's easy to check,
Wait till your car builds some LTFT at idle, as it surely will if its stock or even slightly modified.

Reset the cel ... lets pretend for the catalytic (because you have a race pipe).

Check to see if the LTFT is back to 0

Guys is there a way to display the oil temp with any of these apps?

Not unless the oil temp is read by the PCM which I don't believe it is.

For all you Torque users...Do you guys know what the difference is between "Fuel Trim Bank 1 Long Term" and "Fuel Trim Bank 1 sensor 2"?

Hi sweetfa,

I am running catless and have the 02 cell. I see you said the newest update will mask the cell. My question is do I have to leave the torque app plugged in to mask this? Or can I just upload Torque once, mask the cel, and walk away. Will the O2 cell stay masked?

Torque needs to be running to clear this each time ..I'm running a gutted cat and don't get a cel for it all ? - I did have to replace the rear o2 sensor though. I run D585 coils so I get a CEL for those

i am very freakin curious how does torque read vacuum and boost as the rx8 does not have a map sensor.....

It doesn't ... there is no MAP PID on our car.

The list of PIDs a few posts up is what Torque looks for. It can only display what the ECU transmits still.

im mine,torque does see boost and vacuum:)))))i will put up a video for all who dont belive it:)

How does it see boost?

I'm thinking of trying this all out with my Galaxy Nexus to see what all the hoopla is about.

(just another app that will ruin more of the battery life)

check this out!i dont now how is this possible:)))

torque app rx8 - YouTube

The vacuum data is clearly reported by the ECU, which means there is a sensor somewhere that picks it up. I can point to my 99 Miata's vacuum sensor. Even though the engine is MAF based, it also has a vacuum sensor.

The 8 is probably the same.

It might not even be a strict vacuum sensor, but part of a different sensor that figures it out.

Torque can't report anything the ECU doesn't send (except for the other items based on the device's data like GPS, motion, etc...)

i was looking everywhere but still did not find a map sensor on the 8...but still the torque can see vacuum and boost readings on it,i have tested and compared the numbers with the boost controller readings and when the boost controler shows 0.53 bars,the torque shows 0.6.now witch one is correct only god nows.....i will stick with the boost controller as i do not trust torque for boost readings

Yeah, it's likely that the sensor is calibrated for vacuum, not for boost, and it gets inaccurate in positive numbers.

Then there is torque's read delay, etc... I wouldn't trust it for something you need instant info from.

Though I use Torque all the time for both of my cars. Have a tablet floor mount that I use to hold my tablet, and it's pretty much running if the car is. Still having ECU issues that I need to keep an eye on :)


Though Torque causes a DSC/TCS fault for some reason when it first connects to my 8. Have to shut off power and immediately restart to clear the fault and re-enable the DSC/TCS again. Not sure why that would happen.

It's an odd built-in vacuum PID, for sure. Does not line up in inHg with my boost gauge or Adaptronic MAP sensor (although they're plumbed to the same place).

At no load idle / neutral throttle up to 3000 RPM and it jumps to 8-9 positive PSI which is far from reality. The most my MAP sensor does is reach around -3 inHg still in vacuum -- no boost.

may be from your obd adapter,try another one.had this issue before with another adapter,now i am using a ELM 327 and everything is perfect

What is the difference between boost and vaccum? :P (which one is supposed to be the read out from MAP?)