Spark Plug Question
07-05-2007, 02:04 PM
#26
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If you are talking about RX-7 plugs (BUR9EQP [NGK-5255], IRE01-31 [NGK-5720]), DO NOT run those in your trailing position. They will bottom out and distort your housings.
If you are talking about OEM RX-8 plugs (RE7CL, RE9BT), do not run trailing plugs in your leading position. They are too short and the electrode design will induce shrapnel.
Either run correct OEM plugs in their proper positions or run RX-7 trailing plugs (BUR9EQP [NGK-5255])in the leading position for turbo applications if so desired.
If you are talking about OEM RX-8 plugs (RE7CL, RE9BT), do not run trailing plugs in your leading position. They are too short and the electrode design will induce shrapnel.
Either run correct OEM plugs in their proper positions or run RX-7 trailing plugs (BUR9EQP [NGK-5255])in the leading position for turbo applications if so desired.
Who would of thought that this thread would explode like this in 2 days...LOL!
MM, I've read everything on here but I want to make sure I have the correct part numbers. I know you mentioned the OEM plugs but I believe they've revised the part numbers of the plugs in the last year (probably to fix a TSB) and I was wondering if you could give me the part numbers for the Leading and trailing plugs?
I am more inclined to trust your recommendation.
Last edited by cavemancan; 07-05-2007 at 02:24 PM.
07-05-2007, 02:10 PM
#27
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I think mostly subconciously...I keep trying to read other posts but somehow I always end up reading his!
Edit: I also revised my previous post as it sounded like I only appreciate MM's advice. If anyone else knows for sure the most current part numbers I would appreciate it.
Last edited by cavemancan; 07-05-2007 at 02:25 PM.
07-05-2007, 02:36 PM
#28
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For me, I had to get the car going and I couldn't find plugs anywhere so I used 3rd gen plugs. It isn't that I don't heed the advice of others, but I need my car running. I did keep the original plugs which I can put in if it is an issue, but with them in I was only getting 200miles to a tank and the car ran like ****, I put the other plugs in and it was like new. I will pull them tonight when I get home and look.
Also to clarify I put them on before getting online because I needed to get home to get online and look.
Also to clarify I put them on before getting online because I needed to get home to get online and look.
Last edited by otakurx; 07-05-2007 at 02:39 PM.
07-05-2007, 03:04 PM
#29
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Understandable, I wanted to get OE plugs but no one had them and having this as my main car right now puts me in a bit of a predicament.
Now, I have logged 100miles on the other plugs and have had no issues yet, not to say they don't exist. So I will look into the fitting of the plugs in the motor tonight. I can even see if I can dig up a depth gauge to check if I just had pot luck and because I didn't crank down on them cause any damage, but I thought I would have experienced a loss of compression if they hadn't sealed.
Now with that thought in mind I am pretty sure you would feel them hit the housing walls, no? Because I was worried about that too, I mean I am not dumb I saw the size difference so I put them in slowly and never felt any resistance till they tightened and then I just left them with a minor amount of torque. Hmm. I have become more curious with this issue.
As for the diagnosis, they said they did the plug TSB when I brought her in with 15k the car now has 46k on her so I was pretty sure it was tune-up time. This isn't the first rotory and certainly not the first motor I have worked on. Though some of the others were pistons, they had plenty of power built from the ground up. I mean I had a 14x50 storage shed full of RX parts for the 505hp 2nd gen we built (went crazy collecting parts and all).
Sorry if I offended anyone. I will try to be more clear in the future. But be warned I am a computer guy not an english major
Now, I have logged 100miles on the other plugs and have had no issues yet, not to say they don't exist. So I will look into the fitting of the plugs in the motor tonight. I can even see if I can dig up a depth gauge to check if I just had pot luck and because I didn't crank down on them cause any damage, but I thought I would have experienced a loss of compression if they hadn't sealed.
Now with that thought in mind I am pretty sure you would feel them hit the housing walls, no? Because I was worried about that too, I mean I am not dumb I saw the size difference so I put them in slowly and never felt any resistance till they tightened and then I just left them with a minor amount of torque. Hmm. I have become more curious with this issue.
As for the diagnosis, they said they did the plug TSB when I brought her in with 15k the car now has 46k on her so I was pretty sure it was tune-up time. This isn't the first rotory and certainly not the first motor I have worked on. Though some of the others were pistons, they had plenty of power built from the ground up. I mean I had a 14x50 storage shed full of RX parts for the 505hp 2nd gen we built (went crazy collecting parts and all).
Sorry if I offended anyone. I will try to be more clear in the future. But be warned I am a computer guy not an english major
07-05-2007, 03:18 PM
#30
Registered User
Another possible option for more reasonably priced spark plugs are NGK B9EGV for trailing and B8EGV for leading
I have used these in TII RX7s and they are very resistant to fouling.I seem to recall some Australian contributor to the RX7 forum used them in his race car.
Note I have not tried them in my RX8.
I have used these in TII RX7s and they are very resistant to fouling.I seem to recall some Australian contributor to the RX7 forum used them in his race car.
Note I have not tried them in my RX8.
07-05-2007, 03:19 PM
#31
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Nobody's offended. Since you are relatively new here, at least as far as posts are concerned, I'll sum it all up by saying this; ever since the RX-8 was released Mazda, their dealerships, and most people who have had prior RX-7 experience have gotten it wrong and found that very little that applied to previous 13Bs applies to the Renesis. There is also a great social divide between we 8 owners and those who own 7s. Therefore, we 8 owners are all that we have for support in situations like these and that, to me, is deplorable as far as Mazda and the dealerships go. Some of us who have been here since the beginning are a bit sensitive about the info that gets passed around and even moreso about the good info that gets challenged or ignored. None of us likes to see another lose his engine as we are all passionate about these cars. It's an RX-8 thing and only we understand......
07-05-2007, 03:59 PM
#33
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Ya, I just have alot of that grassroots mechanic and DIY attitude from owning a 1st gen and a Delorean as well as having owned a '95 Celica GT-Four Rally car imported from japan. It is with that car I found out how little some other forums in other countries like to help, but I got it up to 480hp to all 4 wheels before I sold it to buy the 8, had a nice motor that my dad and I built. My 7 runs a motor that I built as a replacement, I am in the process of building a ported motor for it.
Alas I digress, ok I will have results after my Calc2 class this evening.
Alas I digress, ok I will have results after my Calc2 class this evening.
07-05-2007, 04:04 PM
#34
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Sorry, cave, my post was directed at otakurx. You're cool and I don't have any jealousies regarding MM as we are in each other's "Fokker Inner Circles". If I get lucky I may end up in his "Fave Five". Imagine the progress that will be made when we start working together on projects! Now if he could just learn to manage his cell phone a little better.......
Imagine the progress that will be made when we start working together on projects! Now if he could just learn to manage his cell phone a little better......."Fokker Inner Circles"...Fave Five!
For some reason I am imagining you, RG, and MM arguing who's cell service is better!
07-06-2007, 03:45 AM
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Having been in the game for around 20 years now playing with various types of rotary this & that I have seen many use the wrong plugs in their engines then find out the hard way they where misled & thus have to suffer the consequences.
Mazda have spent millions with NGK working out the best plug for the particular engine as they where introduced. Those millions with countless technical engineers testing & developing stand for far more advice than Joe the neighbours mate who owned an RX-7 many years ago, if you know what I mean.
If you have a turbo 13B-REW or 20B-REW, stick to the BUR6EQ - BUR9EQ range
If you have an Atmo 13B-REW or 20B-REW, go for the B6EGV - B9EGV range
If you have an atmo 13B-MSP, stick to the OEM RE6CL - RE9BT range.
Save yourself some $$$ & get them from a parts store & not a Mazda dealer too.
REgards
Mazda have spent millions with NGK working out the best plug for the particular engine as they where introduced. Those millions with countless technical engineers testing & developing stand for far more advice than Joe the neighbours mate who owned an RX-7 many years ago, if you know what I mean.
If you have a turbo 13B-REW or 20B-REW, stick to the BUR6EQ - BUR9EQ range
If you have an Atmo 13B-REW or 20B-REW, go for the B6EGV - B9EGV range
If you have an atmo 13B-MSP, stick to the OEM RE6CL - RE9BT range.
Save yourself some $$$ & get them from a parts store & not a Mazda dealer too.
REgards
07-06-2007, 01:51 PM
#37
Registered
Nobody's offended. Since you are relatively new here, at least as far as posts are concerned, I'll sum it all up by saying this; ever since the RX-8 was released Mazda, their dealerships, and most people who have had prior RX-7 experience have gotten it wrong and found that very little that applied to previous 13Bs applies to the Renesis. There is also a great social divide between we 8 owners and those who own 7s. Therefore, we 8 owners are all that we have for support in situations like these and that, to me, is deplorable as far as Mazda and the dealerships go. Some of us who have been here since the beginning are a bit sensitive about the info that gets passed around and even moreso about the good info that gets challenged or ignored. None of us likes to see another lose his engine as we are all passionate about these cars. It's an RX-8 thing and only we understand......
Look me up if you're ever in Maine and I will happily buy you a beer.
07-06-2007, 06:15 PM
#38
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Thanks, cave. What's funny is MM is notorious for losing his phone, I just lost mine for the first time a couple of weeks ago, and Fred has been so busy we haven't had time to talk much lately. We all stay on the same page, or close to, for the most part just the same.
Man this Arizona heat has me feeling randy and sassy. I am starting fights with people over stupid stuff and having fun with it all. I hope the others understand I only mess with people I like.
Man this Arizona heat has me feeling randy and sassy. I am starting fights with people over stupid stuff and having fun with it all. I hope the others understand I only mess with people I like.
07-06-2007, 07:06 PM
#39
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07-10-2007, 01:18 PM
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$20 for a spark plug... thats for free if you compare it with OEM Mazda plugs available in Europe. In Poland a set of plugs costs $300 and I guess it is the same in other EU countries.
I will probably get NGK from US or UK...
RE7CL .048" Leading
RE9BT .048" Trailing
I hope this is the right choice and they are the same as OEM Mazda.
The only problem is the shipping cost - around $100
What's more I'm still confused about leading plug...
as one can read on ngk.com about RE7CL:
This plug is improved over the RE7AL as the shell has been notched to reduce fouling and improve cold starting.
so RE7CL is at least good, but shops in europe, take for example http://www.mister-solutions.co.uk sells RE8CL...
NGK USA recommends RE7C-L
NGK UK recommends RE8C-L
So those two are only different in terms of temperature. According to Mazda:
“HOT” type leading spark plugs (NGK RE6C-L). The optional
“HOT” type spark plug retains more heat which may prevent fouling of spark plugs when the engine is started during cold ambient temperatures."
So RE7 is "normal" for normal conditions. RE6 is "HOT" for cold ambient temps. Why RE8C-L is recommended in Europe and at the same time RE6C-L is in US...?
Is it the fuel? Maybe higher octane fuel in Europe makes it easier to start even when using "cold" plugs?
Is RE7C-L the most universal and safe choice? Are those numbers printed somewhere on the plug? I could remove them and check wat was mounted as stock (2006) - it worked fine so far, no starting problems.
Thanks,
Mike
I will probably get NGK from US or UK...
RE7CL .048" Leading
RE9BT .048" Trailing
I hope this is the right choice and they are the same as OEM Mazda.
The only problem is the shipping cost - around $100
What's more I'm still confused about leading plug...
as one can read on ngk.com about RE7CL:
This plug is improved over the RE7AL as the shell has been notched to reduce fouling and improve cold starting.
so RE7CL is at least good, but shops in europe, take for example http://www.mister-solutions.co.uk sells RE8CL...
NGK USA recommends RE7C-L
NGK UK recommends RE8C-L
So those two are only different in terms of temperature. According to Mazda:
“HOT” type leading spark plugs (NGK RE6C-L). The optional
“HOT” type spark plug retains more heat which may prevent fouling of spark plugs when the engine is started during cold ambient temperatures."
So RE7 is "normal" for normal conditions. RE6 is "HOT" for cold ambient temps. Why RE8C-L is recommended in Europe and at the same time RE6C-L is in US...?
Is it the fuel? Maybe higher octane fuel in Europe makes it easier to start even when using "cold" plugs?
Is RE7C-L the most universal and safe choice? Are those numbers printed somewhere on the plug? I could remove them and check wat was mounted as stock (2006) - it worked fine so far, no starting problems.
Thanks,
Mike
Last edited by Mike54; 07-12-2007 at 03:08 AM.
11-20-2007, 02:45 PM
#46
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WTF? This thread is bizarre with what must be deleted posts, or an argument that spans threads. Weird.
Anywho - just subscribing b/c this thread has all sorts of info, links, and other general fun. And the search function is only so useful - I don't want to have to use it again for this info.
Anywho - just subscribing b/c this thread has all sorts of info, links, and other general fun. And the search function is only so useful - I don't want to have to use it again for this info.
08-26-2008, 04:52 AM
#47
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Hello, I know this is an old thread but I have the same doubt as Mike54 had, hope someone can give some advice.
Is it safe to use the RE7C-L instead of RE8C-L?
I understand from what has been told so far it won't affect performance.. Is it correct?
Are the RE7 (or RE8) the ones that have the notches that help prevent flooding?
Thank you very much in advance.
Is it safe to use the RE7C-L instead of RE8C-L?
I understand from what has been told so far it won't affect performance.. Is it correct?
Are the RE7 (or RE8) the ones that have the notches that help prevent flooding?
Thank you very much in advance.
$20 for a spark plug... thats for free if you compare it with OEM Mazda plugs available in Europe. In Poland a set of plugs costs $300 and I guess it is the same in other EU countries.
I will probably get NGK from US or UK...
RE7CL .048" Leading
RE9BT .048" Trailing
I hope this is the right choice and they are the same as OEM Mazda.
The only problem is the shipping cost - around $100
What's more I'm still confused about leading plug...
as one can read on ngk.com about RE7CL:
This plug is improved over the RE7AL as the shell has been notched to reduce fouling and improve cold starting.
so RE7CL is at least good, but shops in europe, take for example http://www.mister-solutions.co.uk sells RE8CL...
NGK USA recommends RE7C-L
NGK UK recommends RE8C-L
So those two are only different in terms of temperature. According to Mazda:
“HOT” type leading spark plugs (NGK RE6C-L). The optional
“HOT” type spark plug retains more heat which may prevent fouling of spark plugs when the engine is started during cold ambient temperatures."
So RE7 is "normal" for normal conditions. RE6 is "HOT" for cold ambient temps. Why RE8C-L is recommended in Europe and at the same time RE6C-L is in US...?
Is it the fuel? Maybe higher octane fuel in Europe makes it easier to start even when using "cold" plugs?
Is RE7C-L the most universal and safe choice? Are those numbers printed somewhere on the plug? I could remove them and check wat was mounted as stock (2006) - it worked fine so far, no starting problems.
Thanks,
Mike
I will probably get NGK from US or UK...
RE7CL .048" Leading
RE9BT .048" Trailing
I hope this is the right choice and they are the same as OEM Mazda.
The only problem is the shipping cost - around $100
What's more I'm still confused about leading plug...
as one can read on ngk.com about RE7CL:
This plug is improved over the RE7AL as the shell has been notched to reduce fouling and improve cold starting.
so RE7CL is at least good, but shops in europe, take for example http://www.mister-solutions.co.uk sells RE8CL...
NGK USA recommends RE7C-L
NGK UK recommends RE8C-L
So those two are only different in terms of temperature. According to Mazda:
“HOT” type leading spark plugs (NGK RE6C-L). The optional
“HOT” type spark plug retains more heat which may prevent fouling of spark plugs when the engine is started during cold ambient temperatures."
So RE7 is "normal" for normal conditions. RE6 is "HOT" for cold ambient temps. Why RE8C-L is recommended in Europe and at the same time RE6C-L is in US...?
Is it the fuel? Maybe higher octane fuel in Europe makes it easier to start even when using "cold" plugs?
Is RE7C-L the most universal and safe choice? Are those numbers printed somewhere on the plug? I could remove them and check wat was mounted as stock (2006) - it worked fine so far, no starting problems.
Thanks,
Mike
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