Guys, this is my first rotary engine car. It's an 04 with approx 86K miles. A few thousand miles again, I began experiencing a scary event, and my mechanic can't seem to figure it out yet (no "bad readings" on the diagnostic computer) so I'm hoping somebody can help us. Here's the symptoms ...

When I've been driving on the highway for an hour or more with the a/c on, up and down long hills, maybe 75-80 mph, a very bad noise develops in the lower engine. If the car had pistons, I'd say it sounded like it needed a valve job. Sounds like valve clatter. Oh, and at the same time, the radiator light goes on. If I shift to a lower gear and turn off the air, the noise dissipates, and if I get off the road and let it cool for a bit, it goes away until the next occurrence under similar circumstances.

The noise does not occur during every day home to office driving, only longer trips where the engine is stressed.

As I said above, the diagnostics don't indicate any major failure. It's like the computer is occasionally "tricking" the engine into feeding it less coolant than is needed. My mechanic, a guy I trust, says the coolant sensor could be bad, but would that result in this serious engine knock? He also thinks it may be the result of a malfunctioning catalytic converter.

Any ideas or similar experiences and fixes would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,

John A.

 

wow this is a joke right? find another mechanic yours is a boob. This car has no pistons or valves. Its a rotary!

 

wait im confused. I know, I know.... you need a timing belt, distributer cap, and a valve height adjustment right? hahahahahha i love cheater mechs.

 

take it to a mazda dealership.

it sounds like engine knock to me. another common name for rotary knock is MIAC. or marbles in a can. does that sound familiar? you are out of warranty, but take it to a dealership asap, you wont have an engine after a while of this.

 

he said IF the car had piston

 

OK guys.... READ the POST.

Geez.... the guy comes on looking for help and even says thanks in advance and that is your reply?




The usual suggestions would be plugs and coils. As far as I can tell reading up around here the stock ones are only good for about 30k. You can order them on line and save a bunch, don't buy from the dealership unless they will match the price.

You can DIY this, use search and I am sure someone has posted a how to.

Hang in there, hopefully one of the rotary mech. guys will chime in.

 

The coolant sensor light is nothing but a dummy light, its either on or off. and its located in the coolant overflow tank, so to replace it, you HAVE TO replace the whole bottle. if u're sure ur coolant level is fine and no leak anywhere (in/out of the engine), u can just ignore that light.

it sounds like ur engine is either on its way to Rotary heaven, or its carbon up bad. go follow my DIY for how to de-carbon, 20 something bux, worth a try u know.

and oh yes, run away from your *trusted* mech. He does not know how to deal with Rotary at all.

 

that is the sound of a dry apex seal...

you need to find out what the last recall and flash were...

you might search premix as to your future..

beers

 

You guys didn't read the OP...

 

just a side note but it seems like your car is overheating and that damm tempature gauge won't let you know a damm thing untill it's to late.install a temp gauge and keep a eye on it and you will see what i'm talking about.the temps will change at a red light almost 30 degrees untill your moving but that will change a lot when pushing it with the a/c on and 60 mph+!the factory gauge in a nut shell is sleep 99% of the time ask anyone who really knows better than me.

 

Thanks. This sounds like a possibility.

John

 

Guys, thanks much for all your thoughts. We'll look into all of these possibilities immediately. I sure hope the engine isn't headed to "rotary heaven", but believe me, that was my first thought.

John

 

What gas do you use? Premium?
Does the sound occur under a load as in low RPM full throttle.