well if your giving it gas like you used to and its not picking up...but it revvs up then thats probably it...it its lacking pick up until higher rpms

It picks up fine when i give gas. Its just when move from a stop in first gear, i usually just ease off the clutch till i start moving and then gas. So in a way i never really press gas while i have my foot on the clutch pedal. Ive been noticing that the engagement point shifted .. not sure if its my imagination though lol.

Cause im pretty paranoid about stupid shit when it comes to my car :suspect: LOL

i only paid 400 to have clutch and flywheel put in. just my .02

Stock clutch FTW, I'm on my second one in 122,000 miles :)


Oh, and whats up ira1377!! (I went to high school in Bradenton :) )

My tranny mechanic here just quoted me for a clutch and flywheel install $325 and might take 5 hours he said.

[QUOTE=9krpmrx8;3908769]Stock clutch FTW, I'm on my second one in 122,000 miles :)

man i don't know how u do it went thru my cluth less than 30,000 then i got a cluch masters this shit lasted about a have year then i just put oem back in for now just to get my car up and running. but ima upgrade to an act 6puck a later after i finish my turbo on my car.

You should learn to drive stick properly then :) . My first clutch lasted that long with several autox, track days, and even quite a few trips down the 1/4 mile :)

so my new clutch is in...it feels REALLY springy and is NOT like my old one lol...is the only problem breaking it in or do i still have to adjust the pedal and such things like that...anyone?

no one? i'll try to make a video tomorrow of the problems so you guys can see first hand.

but what i can say is that the clutch seems like a much shorter area, shifts are a little rough especially into 2nd. and there is very little area for pedal play

so which clutch comes with the lightened flywheel and balancer kit? I found my existing clutch was larger in diameter and the pressure plate had a wider bolt pattern so couldnt bolt up to a stock flywheel anyway? Worth noting that ive killed 2 engines for different reasons since changing out the flywheel for the balancer and lightened flywheel kit and the clutch is still well and truely less than half worn out (approx40,000kms use since original install and i drive mine very hard ,hence the 2 engine failures ive had, both engines died for silly reasons that id caused eg water leak and an apex seal failure) im guessing the smaller pressure plate and disk was oem but am unsure which clutch i have as it was in the car when i bought it and i discovered the difference when changing engines as the donor engine had a stock (huge ugly lump of metal) flywheel and no clutch/pressure plate so forced me to change flywheels for the one off my dead engine (assuming the balancer and thin flywheel kit is not a stock assembly). Theres a huge weight difference between the 2 set ups so figure mines aftermarket uet i ha e no idea how to tell if its stage 1 or 2 or whatever. Each time ive changed engines ive used my flywheel/clutch/balancer from the original motor as the first replacement was an auto engine i adapted for the manual (whole different minor nightmare) and the latest engine was from a manual but as stated had a huge ugly cast steel 1 piece flywheel that i had to release the 54mm nut in order to remove. Ive never had any complaints about my clutch setuo and its taken a fair amount of abuse and hasnt got loose spings etc as ive checked it well each time its been applied to the next engine. I saw a video that informed me that the balancer style is not oem type cause the person upgrading had the big ugly cast steel type like my last donor engine had. Definately an easier setup to bolt to an ex automatic engine as there was no need to remove the 54mm nut that feels as though god himself had tightened.the last donor motor came with a worn out clutch plate and pressure plate but both were smaller in diameter than my ones i was running with the lightened flywheel kit (i actually thought my set was stock until my last engine arrived with the worn out set and the big ugly flywheel and some quick research revealed my original set was aftermarket. Is there a way of telling if its stage 1 or 2 or???)

there are three types

for smart street drivers; OE/OE replacement

for racers; real race clutch (Tilton, Quartermaster, etc.)

for everyone else; Stage Full-Tard

.

You need to use the correct counterweight for the RX8 engine. It will be the same as an RX8 Automatic counterweight if that's what you used

It sounds like you have lightened flywheel on your car. Likely the clutch is stockish. Unless you are adding a lot of power you are best to stay with a stock type pressure plate and disc. There is no need to upgrade that to what they traditionally call Stage anything.

The stage thing is to sell you stuff that you don't need. Usually the higher stage clutches just get higher clamping pressure and a harder or puck type disc. This increases the pedal effort and makes for a difficult to drive car with no benefit unless you are adding a lot more power. If you truly want a clutch for more power and need it you are much better to go with a twin disc clutch. That will give you more holding power and still be driveable.

Nothing worse to drive than a stiff pressure plate and an unsprung multi puck disc....

Stock.... stay with a stock clutch... it is good to at least 300hp with no issues

Turbo.... buy a twin and be done with it...preferably with 2 organic discs if below 500hp... it will have nice feel and hold lm