Seafoam with a newbee!
 

Hey guys just want to recount my experience using Seafoam instead of Mazdas Zoom Cleaner (with pics).

First off, this is what I used:

• 16oz. can of Seafoam.
• 8oz. of 2 cycle oil.
• Mazdas TSB about loss of power. (In here you will find Mazdas instructions on how to do an engine cleaning with Mazdas Zoom Cleaner just substitute.

Illustrated below.
Attachment 268764
Attachment 268765
Attachment 268766

seafoam
 

check the DIY of the carbon cleaning.......i used seafoam and had hella-smoke out of my car...

These are the steps I went through:

• Took car for a spin. About a 10 to 15 min. drive.Gets the engine warmed up.
• Remove the engine cover.
• Remove stock air box. This helps to remove the Eccentric Shaft Position Sensor making it a lot easier.
• Now remove the actual ESPS plug. (Eccentric Shaft Position Sensor)Attachment 268761
• Next remove the air pump connector. Not sure on the reason for this but some forum members have reported removal. Attachment 268762

Now on 04 - 05 models you would remove the vacuum plugs from the auxiliary ports. Servicing ONE at a time!

06 and later models have vacuum hoses attached to the PCV system. As well remove one at a time.

Since my car is an 04 I removed the front vacuum plug first and attached a hose that went from the port to the SeaFoam can. Like so-> Attachment 268759

Also removed the windshield washer fluid reservoir to make room to move about.

Crank engine for 10 sec (letting vacuum suck in the seafoam) and let it sit for 30 sec and repeat on that same port.

Now do the same for the second port. (remembering to plug the first port)
Attachment 268758

Now let the SeaFoam sit for an hour or more.

After that grab your 2 cycle oil and do the the same as with the SeaFoam for each port. Cranking the engine for only 5 sec. Both ports only took about 4 oz.

Next:

• Reconnect the ESPS connector
• Reconnect the Air pump connector
• Assemble back your air intake box.
• If you choose to, replace the engine cover.

As you can notice I edit a lot! First time doing this.
Just wanted to show other newbees and forum members alike it can be done. It's actually very easy.

I also cleaned my MAF Sensor with Electric Contact Cleaner.

Now my car is a lot smoother!

I used to come up to a stop and my car would stumble like crazy. One time actually stalling. I thought about replacing my plugs and coils just wanted to get this done first(cheaper). Then going with the more expensive.

Overall I would recommend this procedure to everyone!

wait an hour before starting it to let the cleaner soak in well.

What is the purpose of adding all that 2-cycle oil at the end, to mix with the seafoam? I don't recall that being part of the shop procedure. I don't think it will help with carbon removal, and shouldn't be necessary for startup.

I think it's just adding a lot of hydrocarbons to a situation where the exhaust will already be getting a big load of hydrocarbon from the seafoam, and adding unnecessary burden to the catalytic converter and increasing the amount of smoke.

omp is cranked up to max when following the shop procedure i believe.

If more people followed this procedure their motors would retain compression for a lot, lot, lot longer. We've successfully disconnected the oil metering pump internals to trick engine management to think its still working. Naturally we all know that the need for this product to remove carbon comes from the oil metering pump. Adding 2 cycle to your fuel accomplishes the same thing but 2 cycle is designed to burn in a combustion event.

The process we've followed on older motors that come with our race donor cars is to pour the SeaFoam directly into all the spark plug holes after turning the motor over a few times here and there to insure the seafoam gets to all the seal grooves. We wait a few hours and add a little more to let it soak into all the sealing grooves. Then we wait overnight.

Tonedef is right on the money---you fire this dude up (and it stumbles and stumbles) and you wouldn't believe the amount of what looks bright white smoke. It will do this for 5 or 10 minutes (it did for us).

Take compression readings before and after and you'll see a difference.

Right, but are you agreeing with adding a big slug of 2-cycle at the end of the decarboning soak?

I guess you could. It will burn off so it won't hurt anything. I really can't think of any advantages other then a nice big lubricated housing when you first fire her up.

what did you do exactly ?

Mazda tech's pump OMP output to 60% or more because using seafoam Or Mazda Zoom Cleaner will Clean chambers dry of what ever is in there including stock OMP injected oil. Causing FRICTION (this is not good!). That is why we use 2 cycle oil after the soak in process. To lubricate the chambers and reduce friction. Since we mortals can't tap into the ECM and adjust the OMP output.

Ah, I took a look at the TSB and I see what you're talking about. But I'm not sure whether friction reduction was the goal there. Prior to bumping up the MOP, the procedure has you:

- start the engine and run at 1500-2000 rpm until stablized and all smoke has dissipated. This alone takes at least 10 minutes.

- rev to 6000 rpm, with quick cutoff (repeat 20 times!)

It's only at this point that the TSB calls for the "MOP simulation test". Avoidance of cleaner-induced friction doesn't seem to be the point, since it probably takes a good half hour after start-up to get to this point, including the 6000 rpm bursts -- all done after the stripping effect of the cleaner. But I imagine "normal" MOP lubrication is restored within a short time of engine startup.

I'm not sure I understand the purpose of 15 minutes of idle with high oil injection at this point of the procedure. Maybe a final attempt at dislodging loosened carbon by allowing oil to penetrate spaces opened up by the previous steps? Providing a means of conveyance for those carbon bits? Unblocking the MOP ports of sludge?

I think you probably have a good idea about trying to emulate their MOP actions, but it would need to be after the 6000-rpm runup sequence is complete, otherwise the manually-injected oil is long gone by then. It would be tough to emulate a 15 minute stretch of sustained high lubrication. Maybe some heavy premix?

I am interested in doing this but I was wondering If I should swap in my old plugs first? or does that matter?

Yes. The 2-Cycle like all other oils is to coat the inside with a protection coat that you remove when you decarb the engine.
So by adding the 2-cycle you are adding that protection layer back but this time its clean.

I probably would although I checked the condition of my plugs after and they weren't that filled with crud. Actually It seem to me that carbon was actually falling of. A small wire brush and they should be clean. But if you have old used ones I'd say used them instead.

Yep you may be right. But I definitely would have the oil in there in the initial process were the SeaFoam is still fresh and in larger quantity. Now remember that this is the reason behind using 2 cycle oil. This is oil that burns with out leaving carbon deposits (or so I'm told) like conventional motor oil does. But I see your point and I agree it is hard to emulate the process Mazda uses were they can freely manipulate the OMP.

Did any of you guys change your oil after performing this procedure? I have a few people telling me I should....

does seafoam come with the tube?

What 2 stroke oil can be bought from Autozone? I don't premix but I don't like the idea of cranking dry so I have no idea what to use.

seafoam doesn't come with the tube. You have to find somewhere. I did the seafoam 2 days ago and the car fells a lot better. btw You can use any universal 2 stroke oil from walmart etc.

Tube is 1/4in and about 3 feet in length. You'll find in at places like NAPA. And yes any 2 cycle or 2 stroke oil should be fine.

how many vacuum ports are there?

Has anyone used Amsoil "Power Foam"? Is it similar to Seafoam except in in spray form?

Where is Seafoam available?

TIA

I am pretty sure you can get seafoam in any Autozone or AdvanceAutoparts

only two (one per rotor)

Don't know about the amsoil stuff. Seafoam is available at just about any autoparts stores and also walmart.

Thanks Guys. I have used Power Foam for many years on old, carbureted RX's by spraying it down the barrels, letting it sit as you do for Seafoam and then purge it out after starting. It would also help to loosen up the auxiliary ports on 2nd gens. I wonder if that would do the same on the Renesis.

Personally I dont add the 2 stroke in until the engine has started and I only use an ounce per housing. Something tells me that the seafoam and the 2 stroke would be having a chemical battle inside the housing. I am actually going to check this out and see what happens when mixed.

does it work as well if you just use it in the gas tank?

Simple answer no... The whole point of doing this procedure is that your getting sea foam in the housing with no combustion is swishing around coating the housing eating away at the carbon and other buildup. after an hour of this you start the car up clearing out most of the build up in the housing.

so if you put it in with the fuel it just burns up with the fuel doing pretty much nothing.

I did this yesteday as well as cleaned the MAF. I disconnected the battery to reset the fuel trims as the idle would move around 100 rpms from 900-1000.
Now my idle goes from 1000 to 700 to 800 and just keeps moving around. Is this because i disconnected the battery? I already took the car on 3 driving cycles as well as a two hour drive and it still idles weird. I should also mention that the spark plugs were replaced 2 months ago; however, right after the sea foam when i turned on my car and revved it up to 6k rpm the engine light flash showing a misfire.
I have 80k miles on a mt 2004
please advise

So from what I see your idle pretty much stayed the same the the resetting of fuel trims did not work?

is the CEL still on or did it only flash that one time?

check your maf sensor harness to make sure the connections are properly seated.

what did you clean your maf with and how did you clean it.

the reason why i did the seafoam was to help the idle and also cleaned the MAF senso with MAF cleaner from kragen auto parts. I disconnected the battery to reset everything and now after all that I still get movement. only like 200 rpms but it still moves (1000-750) the CEL only flashed that one time and it never came on again.
thanks

Your car needs several drive cycles to relearn its fuel trims.

You just reset everything. So it'll take some time before it returns back to normal. It's also dependent on your driving style.

Could be a compression issue from the side seals or apex seals. Its hard to say. have you replaced your coil packs or lead wires? do you premix?

Just finished seafoaming my car. It had just rolled over 25k this week so I figured "Why not?". Glad I decided to do the startup after dark. :lol: There was so much smoke you couldnt see my neighbors houses. A couple of cars that went by slowed to a near stop as if they werent sure if they should get out and help or not :rofl:

Cheers
 

Thanks for the DIY, worked perfect, car runs nicely, my idle seems a little softer.

For those of you who may have experienced a couple of misfires after seafoam it was cleared up after 3 cycles for me. they weren't dramatic, but it did catch my attention. Give your car time get all of that stuff out.

As for start up after sea-foam, be prepared for A LOT of smoke. I smoked out my house and the neighbor as well as the street.

I just did this last night (I did it at 25k miles, now I'm at 45k miles).

- Used the same method described by the OP.
- Instead of any off the shelf 2-cycle oil. I just grabbed a bottle of my previously mixed combo of Idemitsu Premix and FP Plus.
- Used the vacuum to suck the premix in. About 2oz. went in to each port.
- Fired her up and smoked out the entire neighborhood :)

It just sucked that a crosswind started as I was doing this and carried the smoke over to the main street near my house. I think I must've caused some hell on that street!

Just wanted to say thanks to OP. Just did mine.

Your welcome. Glad to help. :icon_tup:

I did the Seafoam twice on my 136K 2004. It starts better / runs better now but still having issues when starting hot. have to wait 20 min. I do have low copression. Will check compression after the seafoam and post. plugs and coils are next.

As for the hose you need. Two feet of 3/16" ID hose is the best length even if you don't remove the washer tank.

I did the seafoam treatment this weekend runs very smooth now i didnt have the right size hose but wasnt far off so i ziptied the end on the service ports still worked

i have an 06 wheres the vaccum hose?

On passenger side of the the engine located on the LIM. There are two hoses that connects to it on the 06+.

Do you guys think this procedure is better than the Mazda zoom zoom cleaner?

im gunna do this today at some point..... ill take some pics for every one to see.... just so you can get the idea of the amount of smoke they are talking about. last time i did it the neighbors called the fire dept.

I'm doing this today as well in my 06. Maybe a bit of video will be in order.... Is was smokin (not running) even as I was adding the seafoam......Musta had a hot cat as I did it right after I got home from work.