a RX8er soliciting for advice on botched rebuild
07-08-2012, 11:17 AM
#1
a RX8er soliciting for advice on botched rebuild
I did a rebuild 2 months ago that included pretty much all new parts (reused rotors and e-shaft but I did have new bearings pressed). It included Atkin cryo seals and springs. Motor also has a RB Street port, OP mods and a “polished” LIM (just removed casting marks really).
I have fought hard start issues from day 1 but particularly hard hot starts…… after 1500 miles I got a compression test and the results were in the 400-500kpa range
…..the weird thing is other than starting it ran great up until the last 2 weeks.
Anyway I am just soliciting for people to look at the linked thread below.....See post #1216 as the start of the re-rebuild but feel free to read more to get a little more insight.
https://www.rx8club.com/tech-garage-...231522/page49/
Thanks guys!
I have fought hard start issues from day 1 but particularly hard hot starts…… after 1500 miles I got a compression test and the results were in the 400-500kpa range
…..the weird thing is other than starting it ran great up until the last 2 weeks.Anyway I am just soliciting for people to look at the linked thread below.....See post #1216 as the start of the re-rebuild but feel free to read more to get a little more insight.
https://www.rx8club.com/tech-garage-...231522/page49/
Thanks guys!
07-09-2012, 01:40 PM
#5
first the bearing wear, it looks normal, for 150,000miles! if the Eshaft is straight, i think next step is to look for an oil supply issue. how does the oil pump look? the oil pickup? actually you should be checking all of that. its also possible that the bearing got bent/damaged when it was pressed in.
carbon; that carbon looks normal to me, there is just going to be carbon on the rotor face as soon as you start it. its rare to tear an engine down with that few miles, but i've actually seen worse.
the rotor housings. very hard to tell on the internet from pics, but i see chatter marks, not good. they might just be worn out.
oils everywhere, if it wasn't running right, and you took it apart, oil can just get everywhere, these are messy engines to pull apart. i would check the PCV, and have a really really good look at the rotor oil seals.
i would toss the atkins seals, and use the OEM seals. in fact i would only use OEM parts, and make sure everything is built to the tight end of the tolerances/clearances. basically blueprint the thing.
good luck!
carbon; that carbon looks normal to me, there is just going to be carbon on the rotor face as soon as you start it. its rare to tear an engine down with that few miles, but i've actually seen worse.
the rotor housings. very hard to tell on the internet from pics, but i see chatter marks, not good. they might just be worn out.
oils everywhere, if it wasn't running right, and you took it apart, oil can just get everywhere, these are messy engines to pull apart. i would check the PCV, and have a really really good look at the rotor oil seals.
i would toss the atkins seals, and use the OEM seals. in fact i would only use OEM parts, and make sure everything is built to the tight end of the tolerances/clearances. basically blueprint the thing.
good luck!
07-09-2012, 07:35 PM
#7
i think he knew that.....
what he said--mazda seals--for any street driven car with a/c etc. Use the tall tx7 tubo 2 mm seals with dual springs.
with the chatter marks etc on the housings--may have to get the housings tx by Goopy?
Call some people for their oil pump/ channel work.
I wish I knew more.
what he said--mazda seals--for any street driven car with a/c etc. Use the tall tx7 tubo 2 mm seals with dual springs.
with the chatter marks etc on the housings--may have to get the housings tx by Goopy?
Call some people for their oil pump/ channel work.
I wish I knew more.
07-09-2012, 07:45 PM
#8
I don't buy Groopy's claim, their service is nothing but a "lapping" service, but instead of irons, they are lapping the housing. You are removing material on it, they make it "flat" again, but removing material means ... material has been removed.
Until Re-chrome service is available that's as good as OE (which is coming soon), I would just buy new housing.
Until Re-chrome service is available that's as good as OE (which is coming soon), I would just buy new housing.
07-09-2012, 07:57 PM
#9
i think he knew that.....
what he said--mazda seals--for any street driven car with a/c etc. Use the tall tx7 tubo 2 mm seals with dual springs.
with the chatter marks etc on the housings--may have to get the housings tx by Goopy?
Call some people for their oil pump/ channel work.
I wish I knew more.
what he said--mazda seals--for any street driven car with a/c etc. Use the tall tx7 tubo 2 mm seals with dual springs.
with the chatter marks etc on the housings--may have to get the housings tx by Goopy?
Call some people for their oil pump/ channel work.
I wish I knew more.
like nyc says below I am just not sold on removing material from the housing esp becuse I bought relativly new ones
I don't buy Groopy's claim, their service is nothing but a "lapping" service, but instead of irons, they are lapping the housing. You are removing material on it, they make it "flat" again, but removing material means ... material has been removed.
Until Re-chrome service is available that's as good as OE (which is coming soon), I would just buy new housing.
Until Re-chrome service is available that's as good as OE (which is coming soon), I would just buy new housing.
I didnt want to buy "new" housing thats why I went with what was supposed to be 1 race season housing from atkins (and they looked good when I got them other than the oversprayed paint on them inner surface...
07-10-2012, 01:01 PM
#11
yes i know.
seeing the condition of the housings would have me add in a really good look at the metering nozzles, or just replace them. also check the thermal pellet in the eshaft.
i know it triples the time it takes to build the engine, but you should be able to spec everything out and just build a totally stock engine and have no problems with it.
since you're having odd problems, you need to check EVERYTHING. something isn't happy, and you need to dig until you find it. be picky, it might be a couple of little things
before you send the assembly out to be balanced i'd weigh the rotors, if the weights are within 50 grams, you should be ok, if its not you should balance.
seeing the condition of the housings would have me add in a really good look at the metering nozzles, or just replace them. also check the thermal pellet in the eshaft.
i know it triples the time it takes to build the engine, but you should be able to spec everything out and just build a totally stock engine and have no problems with it.
since you're having odd problems, you need to check EVERYTHING. something isn't happy, and you need to dig until you find it. be picky, it might be a couple of little things
before you send the assembly out to be balanced i'd weigh the rotors, if the weights are within 50 grams, you should be ok, if its not you should balance.
07-10-2012, 01:28 PM
#12
It looks like a bunch of incompetent guys rebuilt an engine after thinking that years of reading on a forum was the same as actually building egines.
Order a new one from Mazmart, job done.
Order a new one from Mazmart, job done.
07-10-2012, 02:22 PM
#13
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
Everyone starts somewhere, you can't show me a builder who hasn't ever botched a rebuild. Oh and it wasn't a bunch of guys who built it either.
It is what it is, it will be remedied soon enough.
07-10-2012, 03:05 PM
#14
Mazmart engines will outlast most other builds, especially botched backyard ones.
Nice experience for sure but a waste of time and money for **** poor results nonetheless.
Nice experience for sure but a waste of time and money for **** poor results nonetheless.
07-10-2012, 03:13 PM
#15
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
And it's only a waste of time if nothing is learned in the process and I can assure that HoustonRX8er has learned/is learning plenty.
07-10-2012, 03:22 PM
#17
yes i know.
seeing the condition of the housings would have me add in a really good look at the metering nozzles, or just replace them. also check the thermal pellet in the eshaft.
i know it triples the time it takes to build the engine, but you should be able to spec everything out and just build a totally stock engine and have no problems with it.
since you're having odd problems, you need to check EVERYTHING. something isn't happy, and you need to dig until you find it. be picky, it might be a couple of little things
before you send the assembly out to be balanced i'd weigh the rotors, if the weights are within 50 grams, you should be ok, if its not you should balance.
seeing the condition of the housings would have me add in a really good look at the metering nozzles, or just replace them. also check the thermal pellet in the eshaft.
i know it triples the time it takes to build the engine, but you should be able to spec everything out and just build a totally stock engine and have no problems with it.
since you're having odd problems, you need to check EVERYTHING. something isn't happy, and you need to dig until you find it. be picky, it might be a couple of little things
before you send the assembly out to be balanced i'd weigh the rotors, if the weights are within 50 grams, you should be ok, if its not you should balance.
my mistake was not checking everything and just focusing on side seals
I weighed the rotors and they are good to go
07-10-2012, 03:27 PM
#19
The incompetent poster can build an engine that actually starts though... 
I don't see anything negative in being incompetent anyway. It's not like you do this for a living. If you did you'd be right in being pissed for doing something you're not good at for a living.
I don't see anything negative in being incompetent anyway. It's not like you do this for a living. If you did you'd be right in being pissed for doing something you're not good at for a living.
What I meant was that the engine wasn't built by all of us as a group, we just helped with the grunt work
07-10-2012, 03:36 PM
#22
I am not pissed at all.... I am keeping a positive attitude despite your claim that I am not a competent individual. Just because my motor "failed" is no reflection on my competence just that I have a lot opportunities to learn about building this engine
....jk man
07-10-2012, 03:43 PM
#25
I am just like you dude, no need to get all upset.
It's just that I had a lot of failed experiments on crap cars before getting everything right. Since rebuilding stuff is expensive i only try to help others save money by not doing it themselves.
Think about what kind of engine one could get after spending what you have spent time and money wise by shopping from any reputable builder directly
It's just that I had a lot of failed experiments on crap cars before getting everything right. Since rebuilding stuff is expensive i only try to help others save money by not doing it themselves.
Think about what kind of engine one could get after spending what you have spent time and money wise by shopping from any reputable builder directly