I did a rebuild 2 months ago that included pretty much all new parts (reused rotors and e-shaft but I did have new bearings pressed). It included Atkin cryo seals and springs. Motor also has a RB Street port, OP mods and a “polished” LIM (just removed casting marks really).
I have fought hard start issues from day 1 but particularly hard hot starts…… after 1500 miles I got a compression test and the results were in the 400-500kpa range …..the weird thing is other than starting it ran great up until the last 2 weeks.
Anyway I am just soliciting for people to look at the linked thread below.....See post #1216 as the start of the re-rebuild but feel free to read more to get a little more insight.
https://www.rx8club.com/tech-garage-...231522/page49/

Thanks guys!

 

throw those Atkins seals out and use either use OE Mazda or go Ceramic. :D

 

yea but would that be the cause of such low compression?

front rear
440 520
440 470
430 470

 

it looks like the springs are not doing it's job.

or the seals just sucks

or the HOUSING is not "even/leveled"

or there is not enough oil(but from ur pics ... no way)

 

first the bearing wear, it looks normal, for 150,000miles! if the Eshaft is straight, i think next step is to look for an oil supply issue. how does the oil pump look? the oil pickup? actually you should be checking all of that. its also possible that the bearing got bent/damaged when it was pressed in.

carbon; that carbon looks normal to me, there is just going to be carbon on the rotor face as soon as you start it. its rare to tear an engine down with that few miles, but i've actually seen worse.

the rotor housings. very hard to tell on the internet from pics, but i see chatter marks, not good. they might just be worn out.

oils everywhere, if it wasn't running right, and you took it apart, oil can just get everywhere, these are messy engines to pull apart. i would check the PCV, and have a really really good look at the rotor oil seals.

i would toss the atkins seals, and use the OEM seals. in fact i would only use OEM parts, and make sure everything is built to the tight end of the tolerances/clearances. basically blueprint the thing.

good luck!

 

not 150,000....1,500....I was breaking in a new engine

 

i think he knew that.....
what he said--mazda seals--for any street driven car with a/c etc. Use the tall tx7 tubo 2 mm seals with dual springs.
with the chatter marks etc on the housings--may have to get the housings tx by Goopy?
Call some people for their oil pump/ channel work.
I wish I knew more.

 

I don't buy Groopy's claim, their service is nothing but a "lapping" service, but instead of irons, they are lapping the housing. You are removing material on it, they make it "flat" again, but removing material means ... material has been removed.

Until Re-chrome service is available that's as good as OE (which is coming soon), I would just buy new housing.

 

gotcha, makes sense

like nyc says below I am just not sold on removing material from the housing esp becuse I bought relativly new ones

as stated above....not sure something with such tight tollerances benefits from removing material.....now if your housings are in bad shape you would see better compression #'s but if they are in good shape you are taking a step backwards

I didnt want to buy "new" housing thats why I went with what was supposed to be 1 race season housing from atkins (and they looked good when I got them other than the oversprayed paint on them inner surface...

 

pics of the housings updated on build thread

 

yes i know.

seeing the condition of the housings would have me add in a really good look at the metering nozzles, or just replace them. also check the thermal pellet in the eshaft.

i know it triples the time it takes to build the engine, but you should be able to spec everything out and just build a totally stock engine and have no problems with it.

since you're having odd problems, you need to check EVERYTHING. something isn't happy, and you need to dig until you find it. be picky, it might be a couple of little things

before you send the assembly out to be balanced i'd weigh the rotors, if the weights are within 50 grams, you should be ok, if its not you should balance.

 

It looks like a bunch of incompetent guys rebuilt an engine after thinking that years of reading on a forum was the same as actually building egines.

Order a new one from Mazmart, job done.

 

Yeah because Mazmart rebuilds last forever

Everyone starts somewhere, you can't show me a builder who hasn't ever botched a rebuild. Oh and it wasn't a bunch of guys who built it either.

It is what it is, it will be remedied soon enough.

 

Mazmart engines will outlast most other builds, especially botched backyard ones.
Nice experience for sure but a waste of time and money for **** poor results nonetheless.

 

Most other rebuilds? That's a pretty broad statement. No doubt they dod a decent rebuild but to say they are better than most other rebuilds in the world is pretty ridiculous. Do you know this from personal experience?

And it's only a waste of time if nothing is learned in the process and I can assure that HoustonRX8er has learned/is learning plenty.

 

2 words: Rick Engman.

There's a reason why Mazda sends their 792p cars for rebuilds there.

 

metering nozzels are new and so are lines, thermal pellet is good also

my mistake was not checking everything and just focusing on side seals

I weighed the rotors and they are good to go

sounds like an incomeptent forum poster to me

actually 9k I have to disagree....we are a bunch of guys...at least as far as I know

 

You guys better check and make sure you ARE all guys. We don't want a reverse crying game.

Good luck figuring things out.

 

The incompetent poster can build an engine that actually starts though...

I don't see anything negative in being incompetent anyway. It's not like you do this for a living. If you did you'd be right in being pissed for doing something you're not good at for a living.

 

I think I will let them figure it out and just keep me posted

 

What I meant was that the engine wasn't built by all of us as a group, we just helped with the grunt work

 

touché....have you ever built a motor that failed? conversely have you ever built a motor that really stood out? (not saying that is what I am going to do but that should be every builders goal....right?)

I am not pissed at all.... I am keeping a positive attitude despite your claim that I am not a competent individual. Just because my motor "failed" is no reflection on my competence just that I have a lot opportunities to learn about building this engine

 

oh...so now your saying its all my fault....jk man

I wouldnt have even started my other thread if you guys hadnt been there for support!

 

**** happens man, practice makes perfect

 

I am just like you dude, no need to get all upset.
It's just that I had a lot of failed experiments on crap cars before getting everything right. Since rebuilding stuff is expensive i only try to help others save money by not doing it themselves.

Think about what kind of engine one could get after spending what you have spent time and money wise by shopping from any reputable builder directly