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Old Jan 12, 2014 | 12:20 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by roflcopter
While I understand it would be ideal to replace rotors, housings, refinish irons, and all the seals, this would push the cost well into the range of making buying a reman the better option.

What seals are you referring to when you talk about the oversized ones that could slim down the clearances? From my understanding the goopy seals are the taller ones and would still require machine work to be done.
the goopy seals are wider than stock to take up for worn out seal slots specifically.

they are only marginally wider than stock and the slots can be filed by hand to clearance them to the wider seals.
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Old Jan 12, 2014 | 12:54 PM
  #27  
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From: Destin
And they're available in the shorter height for renesis applications as well? I only saw older ones on the sites I saw them for sale.

And a wider seal without re-paralleling the groove sides won't provide too well of a seal it would seem.
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Old Jan 12, 2014 | 12:55 PM
  #28  
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From: Destin
EDIT: Phone double post power!

Last edited by roflcopter; Jan 12, 2014 at 12:56 PM. Reason: Double post
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Old Jan 13, 2014 | 02:57 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by roflcopter
And a wider seal without re-paralleling the groove sides won't provide too well of a seal it would seem.
it's good to see someone around here for a change with a working head on their shoulders ...
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Old Jan 13, 2014 | 08:47 PM
  #30  
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From: Destin
Originally Posted by TeamRX8
it's good to see someone around here for a change with a working head on their shoulders ...
This is why I was looking at milling them out to 3mm, because just going to a slightly oversized 2mm won't solve the issues with the rotor.

I still don't know how this is going to be handled... has anyone tried cold working the grooves back straight?
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Old Jan 14, 2014 | 10:00 AM
  #31  
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don't think so, the tips are already harden at factory, but I guess that didn't work out so well for MSP Rotors.

if I were u, I will just mill them for 3mm and call it a day, and it can be done for couple hundred bux, professionally.
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Old Jan 14, 2014 | 12:06 PM
  #32  
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From: Destin
Originally Posted by nycgps
don't think so, the tips are already harden at factory, but I guess that didn't work out so well for MSP Rotors.

if I were u, I will just mill them for 3mm and call it a day, and it can be done for couple hundred bux, professionally.
Hmmmm, I suppose that might be the plan at this point, although there is no reason we can't get it done locally instead of shelling out the money to ship them off and a rotary shop to take care of it.

Thanks for the input guys!
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Old Jan 14, 2014 | 12:42 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by roflcopter
This is why I was looking at milling them out to 3mm, because just going to a slightly oversized 2mm won't solve the issues with the rotor.
maybe the rotors are just too far gone to save? it is possible for a wear part to be worn out...

I still don't know how this is going to be handled... has anyone tried cold working the grooves back straight?
yes, you hit it with a hammer. the rotors are in the scheme of things soft, so they bend. if your rotors have the grooves really badly Veed then they also probably aren't triangular anymore either.
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Old Jan 14, 2014 | 08:56 PM
  #34  
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From: Destin
It is possible they are too bad to be saved, although saying a rotor is a wear item is like saying that a piston is a wear item, which is a bit of a stretch.

And as far as the cold working goes, we were considering something more along the lines of jigging it up and using a press to make sure things stay even.
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Old Jan 15, 2014 | 01:19 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by roflcopter
It is possible they are too bad to be saved, although saying a rotor is a wear item is like saying that a piston is a wear item, which is a bit of a stretch.

And as far as the cold working goes, we were considering something more along the lines of jigging it up and using a press to make sure things stay even.
pistons ARE a wear item. the sides get scuffed from rubbing up against the cylinder wall, and piston to wall clearance gets to be out of spec.

also the pistons wear in the same way a rotor does, the piston ring lands get Veed.
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Old Jan 15, 2014 | 02:52 PM
  #36  
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From: Destin
Originally Posted by j9fd3s
pistons ARE a wear item. the sides get scuffed from rubbing up against the cylinder wall, and piston to wall clearance gets to be out of spec.

also the pistons wear in the same way a rotor does, the piston ring lands get Veed.
In the same way that a block/crank/rod/any other part of an engine is a wear item... It's not like these are 60k mile service check boxes(well in the case of the RENESIS it would seem rotors are). It's one of those things that shouldn't be THE point of initial failure in a motor.
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Old Jan 16, 2014 | 10:06 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by roflcopter
In the same way that a block/crank/rod/any other part of an engine is a wear item... It's not like these are 60k mile service check boxes(well in the case of the RENESIS it would seem rotors are). It's one of those things that shouldn't be THE point of initial failure in a motor.
true, its a "when you have the engine apart"

the WRX engines had a spell where they were breaking piston ring lands, even stock cars were failing, it was really bad
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Old Jan 16, 2014 | 10:51 AM
  #38  
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From: Destin
Originally Posted by j9fd3s
true, its a "when you have the engine apart"

the WRX engines had a spell where they were breaking piston ring lands, even stock cars were failing, it was really bad
I thought they were still having a bit of an issue with that to date, good thing you can swap them without any bottom end work on those motors. My point was just that rotors/pistons shouldn't be something that falls into the same category as even piston rings/rotor seals.
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Old Jan 16, 2014 | 12:55 PM
  #39  
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of course they do, they have to slide and compress so there will always be wear in the channel.
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Old Jan 17, 2014 | 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by roflcopter
I thought they were still having a bit of an issue with that to date, good thing you can swap them without any bottom end work on those motors. My point was just that rotors/pistons shouldn't be something that falls into the same category as even piston rings/rotor seals.
i don't really know if they still have problems, we used to have TONS of WRX's running around, but they all blew up and the dealership can't fix em, so they have all disappeared.
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Old Jan 17, 2014 | 12:58 PM
  #41  
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goopy has over-sized rx7 (deeper) seals mill the rotors parallel(wider) and deeper to spec with the over-sized rx7 seals, and your done.

its what I did.....
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Old Jan 17, 2014 | 02:18 PM
  #42  
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From: Destin
Originally Posted by FazdaRX_8
goopy has over-sized rx7 (deeper) seals mill the rotors parallel(wider) and deeper to spec with the over-sized rx7 seals, and your done.

its what I did.....
Glad to here someone has managed to do it, did you take measurements on the seals before doing the milling so they would be correct to begin with? Also, do you mind sharing the width of the oversized seals so that I can measure the grooves in these rotors to make sure they aren't too far gone for that method to work?
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Old Jan 17, 2014 | 09:24 PM
  #43  
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call the guys at goopy they will gladly talk to you about there products and give you some insight
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Old Jun 19, 2014 | 02:53 PM
  #44  
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Roflcopter,
Ive got the same problem and Im thinking about the same - deeper rx8 2mm slots to get 3mm apex.
Did you finally did it?

My problem:
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...o-wide-253508/
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Old Jun 19, 2014 | 05:04 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by roflcopter
Glad to here someone has managed to do it, did you take measurements on the seals before doing the milling so they would be correct to begin with? Also, do you mind sharing the width of the oversized seals so that I can measure the grooves in these rotors to make sure they aren't too far gone for that method to work?
finally??? it was done at least 7 years ago if not earlier, was poo-poo'd for years after first mentioning it on the forum as a solution

there's a post on here where I use a fence post as an example of why it works

installing thicker seals into sloppy grooves is just kidding yourself for whoever does it, so I'm glads it's their money & effort rather than mine



.

Last edited by TeamRX8; Jun 19, 2014 at 05:06 PM.
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Old Jun 20, 2014 | 04:38 AM
  #46  
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Yeap its here for quite a long time but nobody shares their info about cut rotor reliability.
If rotor is factory hardened at apexes (and I bet it is) the enlarging process cuts out part/all? of this harder part so Im afraid if in a year or so there will be V shape slot again
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Old Jun 20, 2014 | 07:35 AM
  #47  
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For the RX7 seals the slot is made deeper, not wider

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-aft...8/#post3900082
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Old Jun 20, 2014 | 08:38 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
For the RX7 seals the slot is made deeper, not wider

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-aft...8/#post3900082
Originally Posted by MaciekP
Yeap its here for quite a long time but nobody shares their info about cut rotor reliability.
If rotor is factory hardened at apexes (and I bet it is) the enlarging process cuts out part/all? of this harder part so Im afraid if in a year or so there will be V shape slot again
if it's still 2mm, then it's just deeper

if it's older 3mm style, then its deeper AND wider.

if I gotta go 3mm one day, first thing I do is get ceramic apex, the higher compression spring alone will help to make up the sealing lost for using 3mm, as for the rotor groove, yes it's harden at the factory, no one knows sure if milling it to 3mm would remove it's reliability, it's probably not the end of the world, you can always get a harden treatment or something like WRC treatment.
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Old Jun 20, 2014 | 11:53 AM
  #49  
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From: Destin
Originally Posted by TeamRX8
finally??? it was done at least 7 years ago if not earlier, was poo-poo'd for years after first mentioning it on the forum as a solution

there's a post on here where I use a fence post as an example of why it works

installing thicker seals into sloppy grooves is just kidding yourself for whoever does it, so I'm glads it's their money & effort rather than mine



.
The plan was never to just install thicker seals into the 'V'-d out grooves, it was to cut them to the proper width for a 3mm seal, along with making them perfectly parallel again.

We actually did end up doing this to his motor... long story short we have an MSP motor with rotors that have grooves cut to 3mm width with the stock height, then we ordered Atkins 3mm apex seals and cut them to the stock height for an MSP 2mm seal and matched the profile on the bottom to accept 3mm single apex springs instead of the dual setup the MSP uses. We also took some Atkins MSP solid corner seals and cut them wider to fit the 3mm seals as well.

The motor did not make good compression after being rebuilt in this configuration, although I don't think it's a direct cause of these modifications. The obvious issue it had to begin with blinded us to any other possible issues and it will come apart and get fully clearanced and we'll know why it's not making compression now. My money is on step wear on the irons, there was some you could feel. We also just trusted the shop to have everything cut properly and didn't bother with measuring the tolerances before assembly, and some of the apex's seemed a tad tight so maybe that is contributing as well.

It will be coming back out and looked through again eventually though, too many other projects currently on the table to both with that one right now.
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Old Jun 20, 2014 | 12:08 PM
  #50  
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Although I don't drive a lot, I have had the Deeper Goopy seals in my rx8 for almost a year, all boosted, mostly drive it around town with boost and highway commute to work sometimes, I also took it on a 400mile round trip to a meet.

car is running great! It pulls good vacuum about (15inhg) on the gauge but I believe its more because the gauge rests above 0. idle is smooth.
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