Richard Sohn OMP (MOP) Adapter
 

I thought I would let everyone know that today I sent off the check for Richard Sohn's OMP adapter. I am looking forward to installing this mod as I think using 2-cycle oil (Idemitsu) instead of crankcase oil to lubricate will provide better lubrication and greatly reduce the carbon buildup.

When I talked with Richard today, he also let me know that he has added an "Adjuster" option to the Adapter. The "Adjuster" was designed to allow you to control the OMP flow settings without the need for the Engine Management System (EMS), which is necessary for airplane applications that do not have an EMS (which is why he started making these in the first place).

The Adjuster sets the OMP base oil flow rate and then the OMP actual rate adjusts up with engine RPM (higher is more). By adjusting the base rate higher you can increase flow rate across the whole RPM range to your desired amount. This in effect, can provide someone the ability to not only use better oil, but to increase the flow rate to whatever level you desire (up to the maximum capacity of the OMP), eliminating the need to "premix" to achieve the additional lubrication many are seeking.

I did not get the "Adjuster" as I intend to let the EMS control the flow (I am satisfied with the latest flash settings for OMP flow), but for those who want more lube such as current premixers, FI engines, etc. the Adapter with the Adjuster just may be your ticket.

I will attach some more data from the updated flyer he sent me in the next post.

NOTE: Sohn adapter can not be installed on any Series II RX-8 2009-2012 MY, the Series II Oiling System is completely different.

Metering Pump Adapter for Wankel Engine.

Wankel engines such as the one used in the MAZDA RX7 sports car need oil in the
combustion area for lubricating the metal seals.

Most stock engines use a metering pump pumping a small amount of engine oil from the
oil pan into the intake manifold and/or directly into the combustion chamber. Engine oil
is designed to lubricate sleeve bearings and carry heat from the engine interior to some
cooling areas. In the RX7 the heat is removed from the oil in an oil cooler. When engine
oil is getting into the combustion chamber, it only is burning partially, leaving some
unburned deposits behind. These deposits can build up and reduce engine performance.
One obvious method of preventing this is to disconnect the metering pump altogether and
mix two-stroke oil to the gasoline like some older two-stroke engines require. With this
method it has been demonstrated that two-stroke oil is an effective lubricant and there is
no build up of combustion residues.

The Metering Pump Adapter, as offered by Richard Sohn takes the solution one step
further in allowing to still using the stock metering pump but supply it with two-stroke
oil. With the Adapter installed, all that is needed is a small oil tank with two-stroke oil,
connected to the Metering Pump Adapter. The oil level in the tank should never be less
then 6” above metering pump.Oil consumption is approximately 1/100 of fuel used.

ADJUSTER FOR THE RENESIS OMP

The RENESIS engine is becoming increasingly popular for conversion for use in
experimental airplanes. Using the Oil Metering Pump for top lubrication is an open
question, because most after market EMSs do not provide an output for OMP control.
In the RX8 automobile the OMP oil flow is controlled by engine RPM and pump-rate.
The pump-rate control is activated by the engine computer. This pump-rate control is
used to increase oil flow when there is an increased power demand at low engine RPM.
This condition does generally not occur in an airplane.

When the engine is used with an EMS with no output for the OMP, the only option is to
mix some oil in the fuel for top lubrication. The preferred oil used for this method is two-
stroke oil for its ability to readily mix with gasoline and lower combustion residues than
regular motor oil.

To overcome this draw back in aircraft use, the OMP pump-rate control can be fixed to a
certain position, and the oil flow will only change with engine RPM.

The RX8OMP is equipped with a position sensor, (pic 1.), which monitors the position of
the control shaft on the pump. This position sensor may be replaced with an adjuster
(pic.2.) to set the control shaft to a fixed position. In this way, the OMP is fully
functional, giving an oil amount comparable to oil mixed in the fuel.



If anyone would like the full PDF file with additional Data, Pictures and Ordering information, send me a PM/e-mail and I will forward.

Please let us know how you like this unit, ie: installation, what kind of oil tank are you going to use, tank location and any difference of carbon build up at the exhaust tips.

Will do - should receive next week sometime.

GTAW has a DIY posted on his website. But for the life of me I can't remember what the address is! Anyway, he tapped the windshield washer tank and used it. It holds a lot and if you have the translucent tank it makes checking the level quite easy. You could also always get one of those tank level sensors installed in it as well.

Here is a link to GTAW's DIY for the Richard Sohn's OMP adapter.

http://www.turborenesis.com/ompadapter.html

This is my plan as well as I do not really ever use windshield washer fluid anyways.

Also, this tank already has a level sensor (the WW one) that I think will still work after putting in the 2-stroke oil. I intend to do the same as GTAW and tap the tank at the bottom round part that hold the tank secure in the chassis.

This is an excellent DIY that I read many times before deciding to do this!!!!

I did notice though that my coolant hose arrangement around the OMP (in a 2006) is a little different than what he photographed, but should work almost the same to get enough OMP line slack to install the adapter.

I've run my washer tank dry and never realized it. I'll have to check the manual for that one :)

I've got one of these on my RX-7. It's a great mod.

this is my next mod!!! will be ordering soon & posting my results...

speed source premixes 1ounce per gallon and uses the MOP.

why in the world would you use your windshield wash fluid tank instead of just putting in another small tank... even something as small as a quart container will probably last you weeks

The adjuster is VERY interesting. Jax, you have mail!

F

I am considering a separate tank and have been searching, but they are hard to find that are HDPE 2. The link below is one I am considering, but is only 1 qt (32oz), so you would have to check the oil level more frequently.

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/pro...uct%5Fid=15084

This may be as big as you can go and actually find a decent location for it on the left, back side (from the front) of the engine bay and keep the winshield washer tank as well.

Tom over at Turborenesis recommended the tank below although he went w/ the windshield washer tank...

tank
cap

if you guys think you can fit this anywhere... let us know...

How much are you planning on injecting? 32oz should be enough for several gas tanks worth of driving...

Just planning on the standard amount the OMP normally injects (as I also am using FP60 in the gas as well for cleaning and additional lubrication).

For me, oil usage appears to be 1000-1500 miles/quart, so this tank should suffice. I ordered it today and will see how well it fits. I will need to find a strap or something to secure it between the washer tank and the strut post.

Nice tank, just not sure it will fit.

I ordered the 32 oz tank today - should get in a couple of days. I will let everyone know how it fits.

Suggestions on best way to secure?

I like the idea of the washer tank. Bigger is better. It's well-secured and about as elevated as you can get in the engine compartment to help ensure a positive gravity-feed. Its shape also seems like it would help minimize sloshing issues. You don't want those lines to get air bubbles.

I wouldn't want to do without windshield washer though. But I think a smaller resevoir would be fine for the windhsield washer and would work fine in a different location.

I'd rather have a tank thats sized for a quart then 2 quarts since 2 quarts will last a good 3,000 miles and in those 3 months the oil is bound to get contaminated beyond belief from condensation

It's important to note that they do not run cat converters ;)

I hear for track days you can burn a quart in double digit miles.

using a quart of oil per track w/e is about average. One thing to keep in mind(my mind at least ) is that the FI guys may want to do this mod. I like this concept and my time is probaly coming.
OD

oh i suppose it is:)

Please post your DIY pictures if possible coz this thing is high on many's mod list. I have a question, would a plastic tank for nitromethane RC last with 2 stroke oil?

Can the adapter be ordered on-line? I went to the Turbogenessis site, but couldn't find an order form...

You can order directly from Richard Sohn via email

You can communicate with him via this e-mail, but he only takes personal checks and/or a certified check now (at least that is what he just told me Monday) - so in the end you are going to have to mail a check with your purchase request

Here it is again (thanks again to GTAW)

http://www.turborenesis.com/ompadapter.html

The only confusion I had was on the tank and how to tap the tank (whatever tank you decide upon). I went to Lowes, in the plumbing section, and got a 1/4 barb fitting (for the hose side) and a 1/4 inch male threaded on the opposite side (for the tank side).

I also got a 1/4 npt male pipe tap to thread the tank hole (after drilling starter hole) for the threaded side of the connector.

Must be a HDPE 2 (High Density Polyethylene) or better. If your tank would hold nitromethane, it should hold two stroke oil.

Quick question [i searched]: will the OMP adapter void my warranty? It scares me thinking about what dealers would say if they saw one of these in an engine bay.

I'm going to say that yes it will. Without the OMP your car will die, if you modify it and your engine dies...guess what they are going to say?

I'll leave mine as-is and just premix if I want the extra insurance.

So, I got the 32 oz container that I ordered and I cannot find a good location to mount it. While there is some room in front of the washer tank, the electrical connection and the wash pump get in the way of it resting far enough down for me to comfortable. If I put it there, it would sit on the washer wires/pump and over time would likely break off the wires.

The engine bay is so tightly packed that I cannot find a place that I like, so I am going back to my original plan of using the washer tank. This means I will have to go back to smaller connector so I can connect into the bottom round part of that tank (too much of a radius to have a large connector). I will use a 1/4 barb fitting on one side with a couple of adapters to get to a 1/8 threaded (inside hole size, outside is about 1/4) connector on the other side.

While I preferred not to use the washer tank, I do like that the washer tank is very well secured, larger capacity, and walls of it are thicker than the other tank so the connection should be more secure as well.

Still waiting on the Sohn Adapter to arrive - hopefully next week so I can get it on.

The 16 oz version of your bottle should fit next to the washer tank then? I also noticed that there's a gap behind the washer tank about the same thickness of a standard 1 quart oil bottle ... now if I can find a "flat" clear/translucent 1 quart container the same thickness ...

BTW, thanks for the ordering info.

If you mean between the washer tank and the fender, it might depending on the shape, but 16 oz is getting kind of small and would need checked often.

There is a pretty significant gap behind the tank that could just about hold another small tank, but it would have to be the right shape exactly with a refill hole on the side for access - I have not seen anything yet that would work there.

I got my Adpater and Idemitsu Premix delivered Yesterday. I will install this weekend and let everyone know how it goes.

On the warranty issue - I think this mod will provide better protection for the engine than the stock setup, reducing the likelihood of a warranty related engine issue. But if something did go wrong with the engine and you are unsure of how your dealer would react, you can always uninstall the adapter before taking it in.

So, this was interesting. I have now successfully got the Adapter installed and pulling Idemitsu Premix from the old washer tank. This took a little longer than I thought it would, mostly due to my learning and one screw-up I had to fix.

Here is a summary:

- I had already removed, cleaned, tapped, and installed the barb fitting and hose to the washer tank and re-installed. This was quite easy and I highly recommend this solution for the tank. I could not find another one I was comfortable with.

- Next, idiot me, took 3 hours getting the Battery and case/base out as I did not realize that the sides unit comes off separately to allow access to the bolts to remove the base. I won't forget that one anytime soon. Took 10 minutes the second time!

- Next was removing the coolant hose with some partial coolant draining. This was quite easy, just took a little while for it all to drain and clean up.

- Then I had to remove the OMP from the engine block. Remember to remove the two electrical connections first. I never thought I was going to able to do this until I figured out how to get to the 3 bolts - the top front bolt is tight, but you get to it from the top with a short extension and a flexible joint. The back two bolts are much easier to access from the bottom (took awhile to figure that one out). So, I jacked up the car and actually reached them by using a 3" extension with a flexible, and a 12" extension. This allows you to reach from inside fender (tire on) and reach both bolts. The top back one is a reach to get to, but you can get to it with one hand guiding through the bottom frame gap and the other working the wrench in the wheel well.

- Once the OMP is off, I moved the lines over to the other side of the coolant pipe. This is tougher than you might think as these lines, although clear plastic, are very stiff and I was scared of breaking them. But I eventually got them over. BTW, this is the time to wrap them to protect them from the coolant hose clips - I used a piece of small coolant hose wrap I took off when I put on the Mazsport mod and electrical taped. I also turned all the coolant hose clip grabs away from these lines.

- I then put the coolant hose back on and secured, working around the OMP lines.

- Now is the really hard part, mating the Adapter to the OMP, getting the gasket on, and getting this against the engine block straight. If you do this wrong (like I did the first time) you will tear up the gasket and it WILL leak. I had to get a new gasket sent to me from Richard Sohn to finish - YOU MAY WANT TO ORDER AN EXTRA in the first place.

Anyways, the trick here is the get the Adapter and the OMP together with the "keys" aligned properly (use the original OMP seal between the OMP and the Adapter). Then put on the Adapter gasket on and put the bottom, back bolt through the assembly to help hold all 3 pieces together and to help hold the gasket in place (with the gasket also being held by the round center section on the adapter). Then from underneath, start the back bottom bolt slightly, get up on top and snug the whole assembly to the block (making sure to align the key, it will not snug if you do not). ASSURE THE GASKET IS STRAIGHT on the bolt holes and around the key area as you snug it up to the block. Then snug the one back bottom bolt, start the other 2 bolts, snug up all 3 bolts good , then tighten all 3.

Be patient with this - this took me several attempts to get this straight and right (the second go around). The first time I got impatient and messed up the gasket because it was not straight and I forced a bolt through the gasket, The second time went easier, but I took my time and made sure it was right on before I did the last 2 bolts and tightened up.

- Add oil to the tank and flow oil through the line the get the air out. attach and tighten down with hose connector.

- From here, it is just putting everything else back, which went real easy.

This tried my patience a lot, mostly due to my lack of knowledge under the hood and the tight working area, but I learned a lot and got it completed. I am very happy with the adapter and can already see the Idemitsu going through the OMP lines (different color - light yellow) and about to reach the engine.

I am very pleased with the results and glad I got it. Next up - Exhaust.

Good writeup. I have an adapter sitting in my garage....am waiting until I get the engine issues resolved with the recall...and I hope to install soon.

excellent, will wait to hear how it works for ya.

This would be a great long term trial - I hope you do lots of miles Jax so you can soon give some feedback on the long term advantages of this.

While it has only been a few hundred miles since I have added, It seems that the soot on the exhaust tips is much, much less (I cleaned after installing the OMP Adapter on purpose to check).

I think this is due to the Idemitsu burning cleaner than engine oil and also because I do run FP60 in the gas as well (cleaner, lubricant, and contributes to more complete combustion).

I will keep monitoring and let everyone know how things look longer term.

Hey Jax!

Haven't heard from you for awhile on this mod. How is it working?

Although I believe this could be a GREAT mod because of it's burning cycle-2 rather than motor oil that has already been cycling through the engine and crudding up; My concern with this mod/Adapter is that if you are running the stock flow settings through the OMP, how do you know that the amount of cylce-2 oil supplied to the engine should be the same as the amount of motor oil you were running through the engine? Are the lubrcating/combustability properties of the two types of oils that similiar? Because even with the Adjuster, you could actually control the amount of flow, but how do you figure what that correct amount should be? Short/long term effects of the amount being wrong because it is a different oil and is untested would be my concern. Unless, like I said, they are that similiar?? I hope that's the answer!!

Also with premixing...I still see the benefit of premixing with this mod because it will lubricate parts the OMP system doesn't. (I know this isn't exactly what you are doing), but wouldn't folks want to run the same cycle-2 in the premix that you are running through the OMP? Then there wouldn't be any mixing of oils at combustion. Just seems it would be the best setup if this all works.

Then, of course, Synthetic motor oil would be "absolutely" OK, because none is getting injected into the engine. Kill that HUGE Thread. WooHoo!!

This just seems like this is something Mazda could have developed because of the obvious benefits; Except for the also obvious concern of the ordinary car owner letting the resevoir run dry because they never checked it! Although an indicator light and sensor in the resevoir may work?

There's something good here me thinks!!

They could put a level sensor in there and add a gauge to the dash. I'd be fine with adding it whenever necessary. I think it'd be more idiot proof than having to check the dipstick every other fill-up or so. This way you'd know exactly how much you have left. Heck even put a big red warning light when it gets low! Sounds like something someone could make a lot of money off of if they produced it.

Issues:

Container material, size and shape and where to mount it. (I'd like to keep my windshield fluid)

The oil would be cooler when injected because it's in a separate container and not the engine. Is that better or worse?

Would it be Ok just sitting in a container in the engine compartment? (Temps, time for it to be used, etc.)

If you just put engine oil in a side resevoir it would at least be more clean and an improvement. But I kind of assume the stock OMP flow settings using cycle-2 would be ok??? Anybody?

Yes the OMP calls for what the engine needs using 2 cycle oil is fine in that respect, at least it's made to be burned, many rx7 owners have gone this route. "even RG" The variable version is more for ppl that want to FI their engines or go different routes like in planes or boats.

Why would this mod be just more geared toward FI?

If you ran 'clean' reg. oil or cycle-2 oil instead of 'used' oil through, I think that would be a benefit to any engine (especially longterm). The oil that is pumped through the OMP is more for lubrication than performance. I know the two kinda go hand in hand, but what I mean is that nobody is gonna do this mod for the X amount, if any, of HP it will give. It's for a better/cleaner running engine, which is still performance based to an X degree, but also maintenance & care based.

I think any setup would benefit to some degree from this mod. It would come down to cost vs. benefit. A very subjective topic of any mod. And a personal preference.

I just don't think we should give the impression that this is only for FI.

sry my mistake read jax second post at the start of this thread, there are 2 models of this adaptor available. the standard one is perfect for the rx8, the second is for use with engines without computer control or needing more oil flow which is adjustable, that is what I was refering too. :)

1. Working great - love this mod.

2. 2 cycle oil lubricates better for this use because it just has to focus on one-time lubrication needs and does not have to worry about lasting a long time, so the additive package is built for that purpose. I use Idemitsu Rotary Premix, which is even more specifically designed lubricate rotary engines/seals. No worry's here.

3. Using the Adjuster - This is a add-on piece to the standard Adapter. If you add this, you are manually controlling the fixed flow rate. I am not using this as I think it is overkill for a NA motor. FI motors could use and would just have to experiment a little (setting at the middle setting) and monitoring usage to get it where they are comfortable.

4. Premixing - personal choice to continue to supplement. May get to "hard to reach" places easier, but this is just speculation by many. Could use adjuster to add more oil instead of Premixing, just a convenience factor. I personally use Lube Control FP60 as it add some more lubrication (kinda like premixing), but I use it more for the excellent cleaning to further reduce any exhaust port clogging.

5. Does make Synthetic oil debate a moot point.

6. Like RotaryGod said before, if you are under your hood so little that the tank that lasts 1000-3000 miles could run dry, you need a different car.

Not 2 models, just one Adapter.

You can buy the Adjuster separately if you want to manually control the OMP flow rate (controlling base rate and automatically increasing by RPM) instead of using the computer controller

Gaaaaah Another mistake :(