LOL! FAIL. But I meant is the compression tester good compared to the Mazda tester, or is it not very accurate? Only reason I'm saying this is because each test is at different RPM's... Or does it not depend on how high the RPM, but must deliver the same number? Please help clarify this.

 

I'll let Kevin and Twistedrotors answer these questions. I'm VERY curious if this constitutes a new engine!

 

Factory Specs From Genuine US WS Manual..
Standard : 830kPA 8.5kgf-cm, 120 PSI @250RPM
Minimum : 680kPA 6.9kgf-cm, 98.6 PSI @ 250RPM
Standard Difference Between Chambers:
Within 150kPA 1.5kgf-cm, 21.8 PSI
Standard Difference in Rotors:
Within 100kPA 1.0kgf-cm, 14.5 PSI

 

looks to me you are just under factory MIN Specs for both rotors.

 

well below spec when converted to 250rpm.

kevin.

 

guys please help,

Just got my car back from the compression test and the only thing I have is the below data...

rotor 1 @250 rotor 2 @250
6.4 6.7
6.4 6.9
6.3 6.6

can anyone tell me what this means in reguards to PSI. I have had 3 converters, 2 sets of coils, 2 sets of wires, 4 sets of plugs, two engine de-carbing and still have lack of power...

thanks

 

your engine is over...

6.3 kilogram-force/centimeter^2 = 89.607062835 psi

http://www.translatorscafe.com/cafe/...re/calculator/

if in warranty replace for free ;-)

 

Update guys,

After talking with Mazda they say that my engine is not below the minimum standard and they will not replace... This info in contradictory from everything that I have read so far in regards to the standards. They are saying that it must be below 6.3 before they will consider replacing the engine? Does anyone have any solid info from Mazda that I can use to get this sluggish piece of crap engine out of my car???

Thanks

 

How much warranty have you got left?
Put some 2 stroke (Pre-Mix) in a low gas tank..lots to free up seals.
Last resort, do a Steam Clean of internals, much more involved and not an authorized procedure, BUT, it can help a lot, in fact it is the best way of removing carbon.
All the Above will only bring back compressions slightly, it won't give you a new motor.
If your Apex Seals have been starved of Lubrication, they are fundamentally defective which is causing 70%+ of the rebuilds/comp loss.

If you eventually get a new engine, just make sure you premix as the replacement will do the same again...down the road.

If your engine is "slow or crap".. Now have you checked plugs,leads,coils??.

 

this thing has new, plugs, wires, coil packs, converter, and has had the speed cleaning. all of this is in the last 4 month... I still have 1 year or 25000 miles left on the warrenty@ I guess i will just wait until i am stranded on the side of the road and tow it back to the dealer and then hope that my 6.3 face rotor drops below!!!!

 

^ the ppl in the Stealership you talked to are not saying the truth.

standard compression should be over 6.9 kgcf^2 or 680 KPa.

your engine has already a 6.3 reading.

go to another Dealeship to have your engine changed under warranty.


send to Mazda HQ a letter to complain about the ppl who are lying in your face...

 

Can you provide me any info from mazda that states that the minimum is 6.9 kgcf^2. I spent 2 weeks on the phone with mazda and they told me that it was BELOW 6.3 kgcf..

thanks

 

it's in the Factory Service Manual....: http://www.humyo.com/7765717-252853049

dont take any crap. go to another dealer that respects Factory Obligations like all legitimate businesses do...

 

Here is a pic of the Genuine Mazda Compression tester for the RENESIS, around $1500 USD.