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renesis removal/rebuild

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Old May 22, 2008 | 06:50 AM
  #51  
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WOW! Thanks for the the time and effort it took to put this thread together. This is definitely sticky material that will help forum for years to come.
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Old May 22, 2008 | 03:41 PM
  #52  
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wow RR, you really did one hell of a job on this thread!! Great pictures, great analysis.

I recently switched to 5w-30 in preperation for summer, might need to consider future changes.
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Old May 22, 2008 | 05:07 PM
  #53  
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Good write up, nice to see someone on the outside doing it.
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Old May 22, 2008 | 05:20 PM
  #54  
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on the...outside?

You in the state pen or something?
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Old May 22, 2008 | 05:25 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
on the...outside?

You in the state pen or something?
lol thats great!
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Old May 22, 2008 | 05:33 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
on the...outside?

You in the state pen or something?
He is employed as an engine builder at the new Mazda rotary engine reman plant near Richmond, VA.
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Old May 22, 2008 | 05:47 PM
  #57  
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That's awesome...maybe he can help clean up the shitty rep that mazda's reman program has generated for itself over the last 7-8 years or so going back to the california plant closure.
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Old May 22, 2008 | 05:58 PM
  #58  
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I suspect that's the idea in this case with Mazda taking control of the reman process from an apparent contractor operation.

BTW, check out his recent initial posting:
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discussion-3/thought-some-you-rotary-owners-would-like-see-145558/

Last edited by Go48; May 22, 2008 at 06:00 PM.
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Old May 31, 2008 | 11:31 PM
  #59  
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Premix!

Wow, when I look at those pictures it looks to me like this engine may have been run low on oil. I would encourage you guys who want your engine to last to put synthetic premix into your gas, you can get it from the rotary engine section at your local Walmart. Clearly they can't program enough oil injection to keep these engines gong a long time. The premix being atomized with the fuel will distribute itself inside the engine much better than the oil injection anyway.

Nucleus
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Old May 31, 2008 | 11:35 PM
  #60  
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Yeah!

^^^^What he said!

Rotary.

Premix good!

Mix.....Synthetic......ME LIKE!

Echo?

S
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Old May 31, 2008 | 11:42 PM
  #61  
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the wear u're seeing has something to do with thin oil. not premix.

but premix does help tho. other areas that is

yeaaa premix baby !
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Old Jun 1, 2008 | 01:43 AM
  #62  
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don't fill up without it

https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/atp.aspx
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Old Jun 1, 2008 | 05:48 AM
  #63  
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Agree, the Amsoil Saber Pro is the only and best Pre-Mix to use.

Just not in the ratio's they suggest for a 2 stroke engine ..BUT.
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Old Jun 1, 2008 | 09:20 AM
  #64  
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Do yall think it makes a difference WHERE the oil comes into the engine at. The actual physical location---at tdc, on the intake, before the trailing? Think about it---Pre mix doesn't stay in the engine long unless you mix in a concentration that is large enough. So unless that is done--we need a better lube source.
olddragger
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Old Jun 1, 2008 | 04:06 PM
  #65  
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well i tink mazda figured something out finally when the added the extra oil jets
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Old Jun 1, 2008 | 04:29 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by olddragger
Do yall think it makes a difference WHERE the oil comes into the engine at. The actual physical location---at tdc, on the intake, before the trailing? Think about it---Pre mix doesn't stay in the engine long unless you mix in a concentration that is large enough. So unless that is done--we need a better lube source.
olddragger
I do think it does make a difference where longitudinally and port frequency. More ports across the housing should allow for more complete coverage while using less oil. I think if pre-mix as a brute force method due to inadequate lubrication because there aren't enough ports or they are poorly located.

As stated above the additional port in the '09 seems to be consistent with this theory.
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Old Jun 17, 2008 | 10:58 PM
  #67  
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1st, thanks for taking the time to post this thread and attach those amazing pics.

2nd, this is depressing a little bit.

3rd, it looks the great oil weight controversy continues, unabated.
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Old Jun 30, 2008 | 09:47 AM
  #68  
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great thread, thanks for sharing your experience...

one thing i've always wondered - when you put a rotor into the housing, how do you keep the seals on the underside of the rotor (side, cutoff, that corner bit of the apex, etc) from falling out?
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Old Jun 30, 2008 | 11:26 AM
  #69  
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I think they hold them in with a light adhesive that will burn up quickly like a grease or something.
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Old Jun 30, 2008 | 01:11 PM
  #70  
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gotcha, thanks
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Old Jun 30, 2008 | 01:24 PM
  #71  
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I believe the key is Vasoline.....
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Old Jun 30, 2008 | 01:55 PM
  #72  
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I usually build my rotors 'dry", without coating everything with a slop load of vaseline etc. like some builders. Not that it would be detrimental, it just seems messy and wasteful to me.

The seals usually just kind of sit there unless you are moving the rotor around quickly or shaking it. Before I had ever built an engine, I wondered the same thing...but once you handle the parts, you will realize it is not really an issue. Sometimes you find a particular seal that wants to fall out of it's slot, and in this case yes I do use a small amount of vaseline to help hold it in place until the engine is assembled. This happens on maybe 1 out of 20 engines, though.
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Old Jun 30, 2008 | 01:58 PM
  #73  
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ah, the many applications of vaseline..
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Old Jun 30, 2008 | 02:18 PM
  #74  
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It's the wonder Jelly!!
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 11:58 AM
  #75  
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So the pellet for the e-shaft, is this a mod worth doing?

What benefits will it bring?
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