Fuel pump is ALWAYS a wear part that must be replaced at certain point. This applies to every car.

But its just that our pump sux and need service sooner than most cars out there :(

I had a few chokes a while ago. might have to do with my colder plugs. but anyway Im planning to replace my fuel pump b4 I reach 50K miles. Im @ 39K now.

Look at 16x engine and its tech papers

As far as I know, the 09 model will be equipped with a (revised?) 13B-MSP.

I think rotarygod and some others around here know many more things about the new car than we do :lol: . I am afraid they have to be tight lipped for the time being... but sometimes they somehow release some partial information to us :)

This might be the case about the new OMP. Am I right Fred?

Cheers

jird20

while i dont disagree with you on the metering pump issue (ive driven a couple 8's that made apex seal noise) but having both taken statistics (loooong time ago) and worked at a mazda dealership, would disagree with blaming the metering pump for all of the inconsistencies.

a lot of it is the owner/drivers of the cars. if you took a sample of any performance area of any car you'd find it "inconsistent" too. mileage for example, varies with the driver, topography, weather, fuel quality, etc etc.

or even the dealership part, in the 3 years i was there, we changed 1 rx8 engine. why? because it was leaking coolant externally. we had one more that tested with low compression, but mazda WOULD NOT let us change it. they made us put coils on it, which fixed the compression problem (i know! if i didnt see it i wouldnt believe it)

so back to the metering pump issue. yes, i think its weak too. ive driven a couple of cars that made apex seal noise. the seals make a scratchy noise when they dont get lubed right. this is troubling, as theres no obvious "fix"

First of all, thank you for your very interesting post.
A part from the new third injector versus premixing what do you think about making two different oil circuits? one for engine and parts cooling and a tank filled up with 2stroke oil for injection? I know this is fairly used on aircrafts but i've seen a kit or two for sale made for our Renesis.
Thank you very much :)

Synthetic oil with several ?'s
 

:Eyecrazy: About the subject spoken earlier i thought you couldnt use sythentic oil? The dealershiop said "rotary must not take synthetic", but if some of you are using it with no porblems i might think about it my self. Oh yeah thanks rotary god for the post, much help. Also, in time should i think about pre mix. I have 55k on my 04 am I going to run into problems with my engine. The reason I ask is that my shop guy mentiond some thing similiar which was stated above. I am the lay person (excuse my lingo) for this subject, but he said that there was a machine or some thing that mixed the gas and oil and he recommended "premixing". He said if this machine goes out "good luck, amigo"I was frusterated thinking of the subject:banghead:. Any who if you all know please tell.

I agree that it doesn't explain everything. I do think it explains many things though and that's what is important. Keep in mind this is still just a hypothesis and in no way can I absolutely claim that it is in fact to blame for these things. It seems to be pretty well founded though based on what we know and what Mazda is doing to deal with the issue. At the very least the topic is worth studying further.

There are a few people around here that may or may not find out things a little sooner than everyone else does. I can't comment on whether or not this is in fact true though. ;)

This is not the thread for "Synthetic vs. Mineral Oil" debate. There are SEVERAL threads on the subject elsewhere

Thanks nycgps :)
For all the no0bs like me, this is a cool page I found. You guys check it out and let me know what you think
http://adam.standley.googlepages.com/home3

I think Redline SI-1 Complete Fuel System Cleaner is a good alternative to premixing.

Cleans carbon and is a synthetic lubricant.

Marvel Mystery oil as well. It's $4 for a 32oz bottle.

Idemitsu cost a bit more only like 5 bux and its 100% working ...

How does a "Noob" get 6,428 posts Dom? :Eyecrazy: :banghead: :lol:

Why does it matter?:icon_no2:
Think quality, not quantity.

I'm just screwing with him.............kind of a running joke of sorts.
Actually this is a really good thread and am reading it with great interest.

I don't look at the # of someone's posts as a good or bad thing. The thing I appreciate the most is the willingness to share experience and info around here.

You have to be able to sift through opinions, personalities, emotions...but that is to be expected when you don't have the luxury of talking face to face.

Is there a test I can do to determine if my OMP is working properly??

The sohn adapter is a for sure way to know if it's working or not. I watch the oil container (washer fluid bottle) decrease as I drive. It's been 1 quart per 1000 miles for several months now.

I know this is not a premix thread but I have noticed the crap that has settled in the bottom of the 4oz bottles of protekR and seeing that I dumped a full bottle into a clear container and noticed even more after letting it settle this may contribute to the cloging of the fuel pump problems.

I would stay away from Mystery Oil - it is a pretty good solvent, like WD-40, but as a two-stroke lube it would be useless.

I use about 8 ounces per fill of good (ISO EG-D quality) oil, to keep the ratio somewhere between 150:1 and 200:1. If you want a extra lubricant in your fuel, you need to use enough to actually do the job.

The upper limit of the qualifying tests for the best two-stroke (JASO-FD) oil standards is 150:1 - after that there is no protection at all.

Modern two-cycle oil at less than an ounce-per-gallon will leave NO deposits in fuel filters, millions of users would have found the problem long ago.


S

yes, but most of us using pre-mix also have a working MOP too. So ruuning that much pre-mix isn't necessary. I personally don't recommend more than 1/2 oz per gallon fuel (254:1) for cars with a cat converter

Personal Thoughts
 

I don't think it's a good solution. They made the apex seals tension load to float up or down to minimize blow-by. That apex seal design (i'm no engineer) i can see carb build up in the moving point were it's designed to shift minus a couple degrees at the overlap point. Then it getting stuck either on it's, or stuck at it's center making it hard for the rotor to turn over, and increase load on the rotor during initial startup. Atleast with the current design, the A stuck apex will eventually extend to perform the needed compression on startup, provided you have a strong battery and the new starter.

This is my perspective on a renesis motor that can develop buildup from the 'average driver' (Read: those that don't read this board, or have any mechanical background).


There you have it, my thoughts :eyetwitch

MMO is just distilled mineral spirits and benzene. It is not a lubricant anymore than dumping in ATF to your gas tank would be.

Its good that majority of the rx8 owners can come to this forum to talk about the issues that are apon us but in the end we have all bought into becoming Mazdas ginypigs

+1 :squint: :squint:

I'm not a dragster, i'm a marathon runner
 

I have a few questions after reading this thread.

My car history:
I have 52k miles and have been using amsoil 5w20 syn oil every 3k miles. I use 92/93 gas and check the level of oil with every fill up and add if needed. I usually going through about 1.5 quarts between oil changes. Its a 2004 and had the last recall done at 21k miles.

1. When is the average time to change the fuel filter?
2. How would i know if my oil metering system is working properly, is there some type of diagnostics test for this?
3. When do people usually change out coils?
4. Would a dyno test and compression test be a good thing to get once a year to catch early signs of any parts failing for people who have high mileage?
5. Is there certain criteria that i should look for to start premixing or should i definitely start now? I will check the premix threads to find appropriate oil and amounts depending the answer here.
6. Should i get an after market water temp gauge to make sure my engine is running correctly, i thought it wasn't really needed unless you had forced injection.

This is my daily driver and i love it. My goal is for at least 4 more years with this car and over 100k miles. If this included apex seal replacement or a new engine from mazmart so be it I mentally repaired, monetary preparation needs some work but can be done.