Removing Oil Filter --- major pain
 

Today is the 3rd time I tried to remove the oil filter myself and I have failed again. I can safely say that the oil filter of this car is the hardest to remove.

I even went out there to get myself a longer extension for the wrench. When I turn the wrench, the oil filter wrench-cap keeps popping out. It's simply not staying put when I crank the wrench.

Next, I tried removing it by hand, like was suggested in some older threads, and it was miserable as well. Not working either.

Needless to say, none of the regular oil filter wrench worked because there's simply no room for anything to turn in that vicinity.

Anyone out there succeeded in changing their oil filter?

just a few of us :)

There are some extreme ways of doing it (IE bash a screwdriver right through it ) but I have found it pretty easy to do by hand .
Remove the dip stick and go through the hole where it was so your right arm is almost level with the line of the bonnet . Your hand is facing backwards . You will find you can get very good torque on the filter with your hand from that angle . Just make sure the you wipe the filter so it is not slippery . A damp rag (not wet) can sometimes give you a better grip on it as well .

If you buy the CORRECT size oil filter wrench cap(the ones that fit over the entire top) that have a socket(square hole on top), you can then use either a standard socket wrench or even one with an extension. I would keep some downward pressure on top of the cap with one hand while turning the socket wrench. Do this just enough to loosen it and then do the rest by hand. Make sure when you install the new one that you don't use any wrench and make sure you put a light coat of oil on the gasket before you install the new one. BTW.........only put the new one on hand tight. Maybe 3/4 to 1 full turn after the gasket makes contact. I can't remember, but I always go just a little tighter.
Using the screwdriver technique for getting the old one may work(I've had to do it on other vehicles), but you are screwed if it doesn't come off and rips all the way through the filter. Brettus makes a good point about using a rag and making sure the old filter isn't slippery. 99% of the time you can get it off by hand, it just takes persistance with leverage being the most critical. Once you get it to budge, you're all set..................although your forearms will hurt! :lol2:
May sound stupid, but make sure you are turning the right way! :uhh:

if it's your first oil change, have the dealer do it. After that it should be fine.

Sometimes a layer of SaranWrap or two will provide the extra grip and diameter the wrench needs!

....but if it is that infamous "first" filter (the one they get the Sumo to put on)
probably let the dealer fight it!

S

Or you could do this:

I have changed mine with no problems you just need the right tools

If the saran wrap trick does not work, try a strip of thin sandpaper.

The K&N filters also have a nut welded to the top of it so you can use a ratchet/socket to remove it.

A spring loaded tool like this also works well with two long extentions and a U-Joint

good pic expo1,

I got the same tool from autozone - all you need is that, and an extension bar for a socket wrench and you are set. I think on the packaging it was called a "Japanese Import car spring loaded oil socket" something or other. :-)

Expo1...............exactly what I use, can get it at Autozone and then use an extension and rachet.

OK, I may get this and give it a try.

Thanks, everyone.

Heh, but he would have to take the original one out first :naughty:

Is there something special about the original oil filter?

Yeah its torqued on by a professional armwrestler.

Sorry, I just used my lil hand to get mine off...easy peasy.

That's the way you want it, not too tight............but not to loose either! :) Yes, I'm keeping it clean, because I got a real good response to what you wrote above, just trying to behave!:lol2:

Oh yeah I just reread my post. Lil dirty, but kudos on holding back, I'm proud of you!

:naughty:

i just did it a few days ago (cars first oil change) and the filter was a beast to get off. i had to do as 1 of the first repliers said, take out dip stick. thread your arm backward through all the tubes, being careful not to burn yourself. then grab the oil filter and crank...lefty loosey righty tighty

Do the sandpaper trick inside of your oil filter wrench that will connect to a rachet, but obviously you have to fold the sandpaper in half so that the rough side is making contact with the filter and the wrench at the same time. You don't have to put it all the way around either.

Try using the FRAM high flow "Tough" (I think that is the super duper one) and it will have a gritty top for easy grip to put the filter on and take it off next time.

If this doesn't work for you, just buy a new 8 with new oil in it.

:worship: Where did you get this set up or is it custom? If I get the Pettit SC I'll have to jack the car up and go from under the car! :shocking: This might just take car of that!

I advise against "hand tightening". The Mazda filter says tighten 1 1/6 turns after it contacts the base. Do you think they picked that number out of thin air?

The rubber pad that opens jars. Been using them for years never had a problem.
Whatever you use the exterior of the filter has to be clean otherwise no grip.
I've seen people use timing belts, clothing belts, screw drivers...whatever, the jar pad is the best thing on the 8.

The mistake people make is screwing it on way too tight and not wiping it clean before removal.

Hand tightening is fine unless you're a wimp! You also can check it when you check your oil ya know.