HiFlite999

iTrader: (2)

to 3750 rpm: primary intake runner only
3750-5500 rpm: primary + #1 secondary
5500 rpm: VFAD opens
6250 - 7250 rpm: primary + #1 + #2 secondary
7250 rpm: crossconnect between primary and #1 secondary opens.

Probably the most needed is to open the #2 secondary runner from time to time at 6250 rpm. Annoyingly, the tach display isn't very accurate (it reads high, by about ~ 200 rpm @ 4000 and ~400 at 8000).

paimon.soror

iTrader: (15)

Lol at first I was doing something like this when I read your post. Then I realized the intent

HiFlite999

iTrader: (2)

Enjoy your new engine.

Since the oil pressure (OP) system has a constant displacement pump, oil flow increases in direct proportion to rpm, until the oil pressure bypass valve opens. For the stock Series I this happens at about 70 psi. When the bypass is open, oil flow no longer increases with increasing rpm. With warm 20-ishW oil, the bypass opens somewhere around 5k rpm. At 9k, you're getting 5k's worth of oil flow.

Mine has the mazmart op mod and both op and ot gauges. The mod raises the bypass pressure to ~120 psi (emulating the Series II). At 9k, I (and Series II owners) are getting 9k's worth of oil flow @110 psi or so.

Regardless, it lets me see what's happening. On a mild day cold startup, I see 100 psi for a few seconds, that falls fairly rapidly. For the next few minutes the op will reach 70 psi at 2-3k rpm. If I had the bypass still set there, and drive the 2 blocks to the entrance ramp, and redlined it, I'd have 2.5k rpm's worth of oil flow at 9k rpm. Bad news.

Making things worse, the cool kids pour in 40W oil. Being more viscous, more pressure is generated by the constant volume oil pump, which opens the 70 psi bypass at an even lower rpm than before, dropping the warm-oil bypass open condition to ~4k rpm. Going to the heavy oil reduces oil flow in the 4-9k range compared to 20W.

Hence the Series II's much higher oil pressure bypass and engine temp controlled rpm limits.

Memo sent.

bse50

No noticeable difference in bypass points is noticed when moving from a w20 to a w40 oil with the stock regulator though.
With the new one i see pressures around 7\7.5 bar with a w40 oil

HiFlite999

iTrader: (2)

I think the principle is correct, though it may be difficult to measure in practice. I noticed a differece between a 15W-40 and a 5W-30 but it may depend somewhat on the exact oils used and whether one can get to a hot enough oil temp. I seldom see more than 165F/74C at the oil filter adapter plate where the oil is being fed to the engine. That's generally cold enough to be still on a slope of the viscosity curve, so the details of how the rated viscosity is achieved plays a role in the resulting observed oil pressure. I'm using dino oil so results may also be somewhat different with synthetic for the same reason.

bse50

You're right, it's just that we often talk too much about science and we forget about empirical tests and their results

Curtis f

I redline mine at least 2-3 times a day and also take it for long rips on highway getting it nice and hot redline in 4th and 5th and it was 135,000km on it and still running like new . Ive drivin the car pretty much since new in 04 when my boss bought it and recently bought it from him because i was the only one driving it . Constant oil changes and checks , lots of maintence , letting car warm up every single time before driving for 6 years and the only problem ever with the car was a bit of a rough warm up idle , but recent coils fixed that in a hurry.

HiFlite999

iTrader: (2)

That little bit might be the key to your success.