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Rebuild OMP LInes

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Old 10-16-2015, 12:00 AM
  #26  
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I have a few OMPS in the garage I can check the bolts thread pitch and length this weekend when I get a chance.
Old 04-08-2019, 11:55 AM
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I eventually went back to the stock PTFE lines. The SS ones eventually leaked and it was annoying not being able to eyeball them. I recall Mazda being very proud of their stock lines (aka -- expensive).
Old 04-09-2019, 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by 605RX8
Awesome Suggestion, I eventually have been trying to take mines off for cleaning this weekend PÍA since installing the Sohn Adapter decided to also clean the injectors and oil injectors but man this has turned into a nighmare taking off half of the top engine to reach them I haven’t finished getting them out but have heard they are very fragile and can easily break , any idea of how to easily take them off I did however took off upper manifold , 2x both even the smaller one , tagged and unplugged relays like nuts to remember where they connect , throttle is off etc but they are still covered by the thick cable that runs to the ECU box , any suggestions appreciated ShellDude thanks 🍻👍🏼
They aren't super fragile but you do need to be careful with them. There is no easy way to clean either parts though in my experience its best to just replace them
Old 04-09-2019, 12:31 PM
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I used stainless lines on my FD and hated them. They didn't route well due to how rigid they were, they weren't pre-formed to the application causing them to abraded against the engine, and didn't look as nice as clean OE lines. Mine never leaked, but they added to the NVH of the vehicle, got ugly pretty fast, and over enough time, would have starting leaking from rubbing on the irons. Once I noted the wear, I sleeved them to help mitigate wear, slightly improving their appearance as well, but overall I wasn't impressed given the cost.

For the RX-8, I made new lines using the OEM banjos and with a slightly different route. I am much happier with the end result compared to the SS lines I used in the FD. The PTFE line can be shaped with a little heat, I sleeved it for extra protection, and can visibly see oil flow, if I'm concerned, by changing the color of 2 stroke oil being injected from the external reservoir.




Last edited by furansu; 04-09-2019 at 12:35 PM.
Old 04-10-2019, 12:32 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by furansu
I used stainless lines on my FD and hated them. They didn't route well due to how rigid they were, they weren't pre-formed to the application causing them to abraded against the engine, and didn't look as nice as clean OE lines. Mine never leaked, but they added to the NVH of the vehicle, got ugly pretty fast, and over enough time, would have starting leaking from rubbing on the irons. Once I noted the wear, I sleeved them to help mitigate wear, slightly improving their appearance as well, but overall I wasn't impressed given the cost.

For the RX-8, I made new lines using the OEM banjos and with a slightly different route. I am much happier with the end result compared to the SS lines I used in the FD. The PTFE line can be shaped with a little heat, I sleeved it for extra protection, and can visibly see oil flow, if I'm concerned, by changing the color of 2 stroke oil being injected from the external reservoir.





Damn, these lines are so clean... cost to build? Where did you pick up the materials? And if nothing else... what would you charge to build me a set? Want my replacement renny and engine bay to be clean enough to eat off of when it's all said and done.
Old 04-21-2019, 02:25 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by xero ryuu
damn, these lines are so clean... Cost to build? Where did you pick up the materials? And if nothing else... what would you charge to build me a set? want my replacement renny and engine bay to be clean enough to eat off of when it's all said and done.
^^^^^^this^^^^^
Old 04-21-2019, 05:21 PM
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Hey guys,

I don't presently have any plans to build more -- I built these for one of my cars after being disappointed with the current aftermarket options (Mazda had the right idea, they just didn't use the right material) and I do offer them as an upgrade when doing engine rebuilds.

I may work on a jig so that I don't have to build them on the engine, and offer a core/exchange program, once I'm caught up on some other projects presently in-work.

For those wanting to go it alone and make their own, here is the tubing and clamps I used:
Tubing: https://www.mscdirect.com/product/de...rItem=48701031
Clamps: https://www.mscdirect.com/product/de...rItem=48547962

I use RayChem (or equivalent) DR-25 shrink tubing for wiring harnesses, which worked well here:
Shrink tubing: https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-48...&source=header

My preferred wire wrap worked nicely for adding abrasion protection and aesthetics:
Wire wrap: https://www.awcwire.com/part.aspx?pa...expando-fr-1/8

This provided OEM design consistency, with improved temperature characteristics, and a little extra style.
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Old 04-26-2019, 12:56 AM
  #33  
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Well as far as being clean enough to eat off, try to remember that once you get everything else installed in place you won’t be able to see anything under there. I can see doing if you need new lines though.
Old 02-06-2024, 02:42 PM
  #34  
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I am going to building some lines like you did. Just to clarify, the shrink tubing is 3/16 and the wire wrap is 1/8?
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