I had a buddy of mine who’s a mechanic install my Agency Power Under driven Crank Pulley for me. After installation my CEL was tripped. The CEL is solid when the car is at idle and beings to blink around 20mph and faster.

I took the car to the dealership to be serviced and I also asked them to take a look at the CEL. They said that the CEL was tripped because of some sort of pulley sensor not getting a correct reading because of the after market pulley.

Any suggestions as to why this could be occurring or how to fix it? Has anyone else run into a similar problem?

 

what code did the dealer get? You can try this http://www.finishlineperformance.com...30-05-1544.pdf but i dont know if that will fix your problem

 

Seem to be following you around on posts tonight Invasion.
Yeah........that should fix his problem, but as said in the other thread, the needle on the oil guage will sweep right and then left as you pump the brake pedal with the car on(not started). Once it sweeps both ways, turn off the car, the wait 10 seconds, start the car and go for a drive.
It's the eccentric shaft position sensor that needs to be reset.

 

+1
I had the same thing occur after I installed the AP crack pulley.
All should be fine after you do the 20x brake deal noted in the TSB that invasion08 linked you to.

 

did he put the plate on upside-down or backwards?

 

I successfully cleared the PCM memory (using the brake pumping method) then drove the car, about 10 minutes at a constant speed on the freeway, then I went through the city on way home (about 25 miles total, driving for around 30 minutes).

The CEL no longer blinks but remains constantly solid now.

These are the codes printed on my paperwork from the dealership:

17995 CODE P0301 MISFIRE #1 F0008XDX, G0101ARX, G0102XRX, G0103XRX, F0009XDX

The dealership replaced the ignition coils (4), spark plugs (2) and the cord set (1).

After correcting the misfire which was what the tech thought the cause of the CEL, my service manager then told me that my aftermarket pulley was causing the CEL to stay lit.

What is listed above is the only information I have at this time.

 

See what Staticlag said above then.

You may want to pull the pulley back off and make sure that the plate(sits behind the pulley) is on correctly.

I knew about this plate, so I was very, very careful in removing my stock pulley and didn't let that plate move as I didn't want to have this sort of issue................if that in fact is your issue.

I'll look and see, but they plate is keyed right Staticlag?
It could go on backwards or not seated properly right...even though it's keyed if I remember.

 

It has key markings on it, but it can go on more than one way. Most likely it fell off when his friend put the pulley on and his friend carelessly put it on in a reversed fashion.

So the solution would be to take it apart again and flip it over. I think there are pics of the orientation of the plate in my Pulley DIY thread.

 

Yeah................hopefully he sees these few comments and gives a look. I was hoping you'd reference your thread with the pics..........I got lazy and didn't go find it.

 

One other thing to check. Make sure there is not any wobble or anything with the pulley. If it isn't put back on just right it will pop a miss-fire code. I had it happen when I had my motor changed by the dealership and when I put my AP pulley on.

 

https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...y+power+pulley

 

Thanks for everyone’s quick responses. I’ll take the pulley off today to see if the sensor is in the correct position.

 

Before I begin taking everything apart, is it possible to tell from these pictures if the pulley is installed incorrectly?

 

Hmm, I cant access any of my pics because I'm at work and photobucket is blocked here. Not to mention my car is at home.

I would start your car and see if it looks like the pulley is wobbling at all. how much slack is in the belts currently? Ideally you want to be able to push the belts only about less than an inch or so. That part of the engine spins to 9k so you want to make sure theres no wobble or looseness.

 

post 2000!

 

Thanks for all the help guys, I think I solved the problem. Before I began disassembling everything I detached the negative battery line, let it sit for about 10 minutes, hooked it back up and before starting the car I reset the PCM memory again by using the brake pumping method. I drove the car around for a good 20 miles, no CEL.

Thanks again!

 

Well...that's interesting to say the least. Did the installer ever disconnect the battery originally? Just curious............glad it's gone, now let's hope it stays that way.