Swampdonkey

The dealership put in a new motor for my car today. I went and picked it up and made so many different noises and smelled funny. Is that normal in a new motor till it gets broken in? Thats what they kept telling me the seals are having to reset themselves and all that good stuff. Also the mechanic did something wrong cause now I have an exhaust leak which I have to go back tomorrow to get fixed. Another weird thing is my check engine light is on and they say its caused by my cold air intake. I put it on myself sometime last year and it didn't cause an engine light to come on. They say thats the reason now. They did tell me they reprogrammed stuff for the new motor could that be the reason? But why do I still have the old mileage I thought it would of been reset too??? PLEASE HELP !

jasonrxeight

millage doesnt get reset when you replace an engine
get the code pulled see what it is
what kind of noise you experiencing?

Swampdonkey

They claimed to of ran a diagnostic on it for the engine light they say its cause the green clip that went onto the old air box that is now just zip tied to the other wires is why its setting off the light. They called it something like the idle air flow sensor or something like that. But my question is why didn't it trip the light when I first installed the CAI ? Well the noise I was really concerned about that now seems to of gone away sounded I wanna say like metal clanking? It did it when I went over 6k rpms. I got the mazda tech guy to ride with me and I drove the car pretty hard and of course wouldn't make the noise while he was riding with me. But it clearly has an exhaust leak he even admitted it. Another thing even with this new motor my car still takes longer than usual to finally turn over and start? Could that be bad coils? I have fairly new plugs in it just now probably a month old and 10mm wires that are nowhere near 15k miles. So those are still good I believe.

Grungepup

iTrader: (2)

You should point out to them that if that is what is causing it then why don't all the automatics trip that sensor. The autos don't have VFAD so therefore that plug is plugged into the dummy port on the stock air box.

The sound you are referring sounds a lot like the marbles in a can problem. I have cured this with a can of BG44K. One tech told me that is was carbon build up and the "popping" noise was the carbon burning off in chunks. Another tech said that it was cavitation in the cooling system.

cidvicious831

why did they replace the engine?

Swampdonkey

Mine is a 6 speed. They told me it lost compression cause I moved from Maryland back to Arkansas. But being doing some research and now know its really because I've been puttin in the recommended oil that Mazda suggests and it makes the motor crap out around 30k miles but mine is at 77k. Have no idea how many motors if any others have been put into this car.

Grungepup

iTrader: (2)

i use 5w20, have had the dealership do every oil change every 3k. I have had a few issues here and there but nothing major and no engine replacement. I did do my coils, wires and plugs at 20k... the plugs were toasted, so this is something I would suggest every 15-20k.

Swampdonkey

Well it has new plugs and wires on it. Don't know if the plugs are good anymore or not cause of all the startin problems this thing has. I've come to the conclusion that I need to replace coils to hopefully fix the long turn over problem. But just got back from the dealership they "kinda" fixed the exhaust problem they had to put new bolts in where the exhaust meets the header. But still is extremely loud when I drive. Will this eventually go away cause they say drive it for 1k miles then bring it back. It doesn't sound so much like an exhaust leak now just more of a roar is only way I can describe it. Its kinda annoying cause I can't hear my CAI anymore. Took it to an exhaust shop and the guy thinks I'm feeling vibration also when I drive because theres this cross bar with what looks like a rubber peg the exhaust is sittin on about mid way on the car. Is the actual exhaust pipe suppose to be sitting on this?

05rx8mazda

iTrader: (4)

IT MIGHT BE THE CRANKSHAFT SENSOR that needs to be reset.. the delership wanted to charge me 120 bucks to diagnose it...
i said no and yeah just press the brake pedal i believe ( someone check me on that) for 20 seconds as fast as you can with the ignition on on position..
(or the gas pedal) cant remember?!?!1

Swampdonkey

I've done that before you have to press the brake pedal 20 times I know that part for sure but what I can't remember is if the key should be on and if the battery cables should be pulled off? I was told to do this a good while back for rough idleing but didn't fix the problem. This might fix the long turn over? I'm about ready to just drop my car off at the dealership and tell them they can have it cause they've done nothing but make it worse. They had a damn Jeep guy put in my motor and has never done one before while the mazda tech is next door doing who knows what. If I'd of known hes never worked on a mazda before I would of waited but they decided to wait to inform me on this until after they already did the swap.

E.M.S.

This is full of fail. Please have someone, a friend or neighbor or club member use a scan tool and diagnos the CEL.things like this are easy to fix. How does the car actually run? To solve one mystery, your milage is the actual milage that your car has traveled, not the motor. Altering this is a felony. You probably have a rubbing problem with your exhaust. It might be rubbing on a crossmember. Anyone can install a motor at a dealership, they have step by step pictures and layout through a system like Alldata, actually a lot of dealerships use Alldata. I could swap a motor in any vehicle with it. No experience with Mazda necesary. You have one motor in the vehicle and one next to it that is externally identicle. Just put one where the other is. It's that easy. All electrical connectors only fit one place except for the coils, those are identicle and I believe the fuel injectors.

E.M.S.

BTW, your engine didn't fail because you moved.your allowed to move. This is a free country and RX8's are in every state in this ciountry. They don't know when they cross state lines unless they have Nav. And when they do know, they don't care.

Swampdonkey

Ok here are the numbers autozone scan showed. P2070 Definition Intake manifold tuning valve stuck open bank 1 Probably cause - Linkage stuck or broken, Mechanical condition, Intake manifold tuning valve. The next one was P0302 Definition Cylinder 2 misfire condition detected. Probably cause Lean air/fuel ratio, weak ignition system, engine mechanical condition, vacuum leak affecting one cylinder. When I first picked up the car from the dealership with the lights on they were like "oh its just because of your cold air intake nothing serious claiming he scaned it and thats all he got". Well on my way home I got on it pretty hard cause it had an exhaust leak and I wanted to make sure thats what it was and I heard sputter sputter clank clank. Took it back and got a mechanic to ride with me this time an actual Mazda tech and he agreed about the exhaust leak but couldn't get the car to do that metal noise again. But anyways when I told them about the codes I was given by autozone they pulled it around back and in less than 30 minutes of them tightening some bolts on the exhaust and probably just erasing the codes they bring it back to me still running really loud when I drive but not as loud as it was but still no where near as quiet as it should be. Car still turns over like it has no compression and sputters everynow and then and when sitting still rpms flatlined hard back to back but hasn't done it again. Can someone please tell me why those codes were on and how would I know if they actually fixed them or just erased them. I'm pretty mechanical inclined but I'm just to stressed out and plus my apartments won't let me even look underneath my hood pretty much without the cop that lives here coming out to get on to me lol.

JessiahC

iTrader: (5)

Why does it always seem like when people get factory motor replacements under warranty, it never works right?

Swampdonkey

i have been told its because we are given recycled motors they have fixed. they arent actually new.

Razz1

The motor is not the problem

It's the installation.

They may have tightened up the exhaust but it needs new gasket(s).

Take it back get it fixed properly.

You will only know if you have running problems if the cell lights come back on.

Check the cap under the throttle body. It may be leaking. I believe if it fall off it runs like crap.

You cap off the TB when adding a aftermarket intake.

Swampdonkey

Cap under the throttle body? I remember puttin something in a hose to block it off when I put the cai in. When the car is sittin still and I rev it you can't hear anything but when I start driving and accelerating thats when the noise starts showing up. But went back yesterday cause its taking even longer to start now and their gonna order me another motor. Asked the service guy if this time an actual mazda guy will do it but was told their probably about to fire their mazda guy. So I guess once again this Jeep guy that knows nothing about mazda will be doing it again. I'll just keep taking it back till its running like new.