I've been researching what parts should be replaced when you get a factory re-man engine, and everybody mentions that you need new fuel lines/hoses going into the engine.

I've been searching for days and can't find any mention of what actual part this is. The guys at the parts counter at the dealership have no idea what I'm talking about when I mention fuel lines going into the engine, and the tech installing my new engine insists that I don't need new fuel lines or connectors. I've heard that there can be a possibility of engine bay fires if the part is re-used.

Any help guys?

 

The fuel lines can be reused but should not be. The connectors gets stretched when removed (more so if done incorrectly) and if they come off you will likely need a new car. There are two. If the car has a decent amount of mileage and you plan on keeping it for a while then I recommend replacing the fuel rail insulator, the oil injectors, all the vacuum lines, the oil metering lines, the clutch (your already there, save yourself on labor), serpentine belts, heater hoses, and radiator hoses.

 

Just to follow up on this thread..

The tech guys at my dealership insisted nothing needed to be replaced. I ended up having them install a new exedy OEM replacement clutch, BHR motor mounts, and new plugs, coils and wires.

The car felt amazing during the break in period until Sunday while driving a coolant hose directly above the exhaust manifold popped off, spraying coolant all over the header, causing massive amounts of steam and such.

Since my entire cooling system was now all over the pavement I had to have my car towed to the dealership where they installed all new hose clamps all over the car. Hopefully this will be the end of my troubles!

Besides that the car feels great. Just changed my oil (to 10w40 for our 100+ degree summers here in central CA) to conclude my break in period, and the car feels far more powerful than ever before during my 3+ years of ownership.

 

For the record, original engine slowly lost compression until 70,000 miles when I was fed up and did a compression test myself. Front rotor peaked at 40 psi, rear peaked at 85 psi at 269 rpm.
The 1st owner used 20w50 Pure Power dino oil, no pre-mix and tracked the car regularly. Upon purchase at 35,000 miles I strictly adhered to dealer only 5w20 oil changes to avoid warranty issues, and premixed with Idemitsu fuel lube every tank of gas. I never revved the engine above 4k RPM until the coolant temp reached 180 degrees F. I autocrossed the car regularly during this time.

 

5w20 means you murdered the engine, not to mention, what part of "recommended" that people dont get? why is it even a fuxking problem to use something else?

 

N3H1-13-495A

This is the line talking about, 13-495, if this thing comes off while engine is hot (search for pics), you can kiss your car bye bye

Dealership/Parts guy have no idea what you are talking about? talk about RETARDED stealership idiots ... minimum wages ...

Don't need to replace the line? sure UNTIL it pops off and burns ur car, hell it's not their car why would they cared ... oh Mazda does recommend to replace that line during engine install ...