Olddragger's Old engine Autopsy
12-01-2009, 01:48 AM
#26
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1. Despite increased viscosity and good engine care this motor still suffered noticeable bearing wear in places we expect to see it.
2. Due to an unknown history any good or bad habits cannot be concluded due to the possibility that the previous owner didn't care properly for this motor or otherwise operated the vehicle in conditions that caused long term damage.
I honestly say #2 is the best bet. Had OD been the only owner of this motor with a tracked history of care we could gather some useful information.
12-01-2009, 03:32 AM
#27
a fun thread start when im not in the states ...
I might have a meeting with the local rotary club, some have been turboed for long time,i will show those builders these pics and ask them some question
Btw, Damn, that knightsports supercharger is f-ing nice. And their race car .... I was like .....omfg the whole time ....
I might have a meeting with the local rotary club, some have been turboed for long time,i will show those builders these pics and ask them some question
Btw, Damn, that knightsports supercharger is f-ing nice. And their race car .... I was like .....omfg the whole time ....
12-01-2009, 08:23 AM
#33
few things we can discuss?
1- Doesnt appear that i was having a lot of seal skip?
2-Sparkplug holes did not have cracks and I bet the apex seals were worn evenly--I have temps under control
3- seems water meth does help in keeping the engine clean--remember i am boosted so my a/f's are richer than oems --by some anyway.
4- I drove the engine for 100 miles on one rotor!
5- the good exhaust port wasnt bad
and this is MY 2nd engine with the same exact bearing wear. Regardless of history if there isnt a lubrication problem 2 engines of mine in a row had the same exact bearing wear would HIGHLY suggest a real problem.
I do not overtighten belts--use the 90 degree twist rule and i am not the hulk. Except in the eyes of my wife
OD
1- Doesnt appear that i was having a lot of seal skip?
2-Sparkplug holes did not have cracks and I bet the apex seals were worn evenly--I have temps under control
3- seems water meth does help in keeping the engine clean--remember i am boosted so my a/f's are richer than oems --by some anyway.
4- I drove the engine for 100 miles on one rotor!
5- the good exhaust port wasnt bad
and this is MY 2nd engine with the same exact bearing wear. Regardless of history if there isnt a lubrication problem 2 engines of mine in a row had the same exact bearing wear would HIGHLY suggest a real problem.
I do not overtighten belts--use the 90 degree twist rule and i am not the hulk. Except in the eyes of my wife
OD
12-01-2009, 08:46 AM
#34
Can I put you on the spot Paul and ask you to confirm your related current stance on quantity of pre-mix per tankful, daily driver. I believe you indicated a lowering to 3.5 oz in part due to what you've learned on this and other engine autopsies. TIA
12-01-2009, 08:54 AM
#35
Here are a few more including apex seals which weren't bad (Other than the broken ones) although we don't reuse them so that I can show value in relation to Mazda's rebuilds which don't reuse them either.
I tried to show the one apex seal that had slight warpage but I don't think I got a good picture. One shot shows the Master's hands (He hates any pictures of him being taken).
Paul.
I tried to show the one apex seal that had slight warpage but I don't think I got a good picture. One shot shows the Master's hands (He hates any pictures of him being taken).
Paul.
12-01-2009, 09:01 AM
#36
Hi I have a few questions for ya, if you dont mind;
Can you overtighten a after market pully like the AP or overtighten a OEM blet and get the same effects?
Is that the result of Mazda's factory tune? can you change this with the Cobb AP?
Thanks
Dont give up. Get a Rick E/Paul engine
Must rebuild. So how much for a rebuild?
Can you overtighten a after market pully like the AP or overtighten a OEM blet and get the same effects?
Is that the result of Mazda's factory tune? can you change this with the Cobb AP?
Thanks
Dont give up. Get a Rick E/Paul engine
Must rebuild. So how much for a rebuild?A Cobb could very well reduce the carbon creation through tuning.
Paul.
12-01-2009, 09:05 AM
#37
I went back and made a correction to the notes on the pics with the scarred rotor. That was the correct housing with a rotor from an FD engine we just built. The rotors from Olddragger's motor were both usable. I'll post pics of his rotors when they were prepped for reassembly soon.
Paul.
Paul.
12-01-2009, 09:32 AM
#39
went back to srsly broke
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I'd imagine pre-mixing with some sort of detergent would help to clear off the carbon too. If I am correct, MMO has some sort of cleaning agent, as does FP+.
I'm hesitant to think that pre-mixing or not would have helped this engine as it was a used engine. If a lot of that carbon was caked on before olddragger got it, the de-carbing and pre-mix might be solutions too late.
I'm hesitant to think that pre-mixing or not would have helped this engine as it was a used engine. If a lot of that carbon was caked on before olddragger got it, the de-carbing and pre-mix might be solutions too late.
12-01-2009, 09:56 AM
#42
I'd imagine pre-mixing with some sort of detergent would help to clear off the carbon too. If I am correct, MMO has some sort of cleaning agent, as does FP+.
I'm hesitant to think that pre-mixing or not would have helped this engine as it was a used engine. If a lot of that carbon was caked on before olddragger got it, the de-carbing and pre-mix might be solutions too late.
I'm hesitant to think that pre-mixing or not would have helped this engine as it was a used engine. If a lot of that carbon was caked on before olddragger got it, the de-carbing and pre-mix might be solutions too late.
His carbon buildup was not that bad and yes, there are methods of reducing it further.
Paul.
12-01-2009, 10:40 AM
#46
starting to look good--may want to buy it back!
Jk but i do wish I could.
I can tell you my 1st engine was in much worst shape. Much more carbon, front stationary bearing was through the copper, rotor and housing unuseable, cracked leading sparkplug holes on both rotors, much more blow by evidence, even had heat markings on the e shaft.
I should have bought an engine from paul to begin with but my car was down and he didnt have one available at the time. Lesson learned.
Now i will definently use a vacuum oil catch can instead of a vented one. Believe that may help with carbon buildup a little more?
Jk but i do wish I could.
I can tell you my 1st engine was in much worst shape. Much more carbon, front stationary bearing was through the copper, rotor and housing unuseable, cracked leading sparkplug holes on both rotors, much more blow by evidence, even had heat markings on the e shaft.
I should have bought an engine from paul to begin with but my car was down and he didnt have one available at the time. Lesson learned.
Now i will definently use a vacuum oil catch can instead of a vented one. Believe that may help with carbon buildup a little more?
12-01-2009, 10:41 AM
#47
Nope. Since the motors that arrive at our store usually haven't had that treatment from their initial usage. This motor is closer to that and it's failure was due to a fluke lean condition. It's main damage item was one rotor housing.
Paul.
12-01-2009, 11:51 AM
#50
One way they do is they have to "Detune" the computer even further. the other way is, well, use a bottle or 2 Octane booster every tank.
Hong Kong doesnt have this problem, but there is no race track in Hong Kong, and the closest track is about 2+ hours from HK.
*P.S.* The track is domainting by GT-Rs, Evos, and STi.
Last edited by nycgps; 12-01-2009 at 11:57 AM.