ok........this one I really need help
11-19-2007, 01:07 PM
#51
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Thread Starter
thanks phil, that clears up that tid bit about driving habit killing car
from the compression test, I take it my starter should be fine, I start fine and fast, even on cold days, so I don't think that is a problem.......
from the compression test, I take it my starter should be fine, I start fine and fast, even on cold days, so I don't think that is a problem.......
11-19-2007, 01:07 PM
#52
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Thread Starter
Thanks Jedi..........if that is the case then my best bet is to get a scanalyzer somewhere close to home, do u know anyone specific local that sells it?
11-19-2007, 01:16 PM
#53
Administrator
iTrader: (7)
you can always order it through mazdaparts.com You'll need a laptop or a REALLY long cable to get it to your computer though.
11-19-2007, 01:55 PM
#55
Administrator
iTrader: (7)
you're thinking of 2 different products.
-The scanalyzer works with a PC or laptop
- Canscan is handheld. (I believe)
-The scanalyzer works with a PC or laptop
- Canscan is handheld. (I believe)
11-19-2007, 01:57 PM
#56
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Thread Starter
ooooh I see............thanks, sigh, its sad I don't have those, I have a laptop though, so I will try to get the code somehow
thanks
thanks
11-19-2007, 02:00 PM
#57
Administrator
iTrader: (7)
if you have a laptop, you might as well look into the scanalyzer. It has a 'live mode' that's pretty cool.
You can display up to 6 different guages (look just like the RX-8 guages) with real-time figures of everything from water temp, afr, voltage, fuel consumption, etc etc etc. If you keep modding your car, you'll probably want to look into one of those options to make sure your 8 is always running within acceptable parameters
You can display up to 6 different guages (look just like the RX-8 guages) with real-time figures of everything from water temp, afr, voltage, fuel consumption, etc etc etc. If you keep modding your car, you'll probably want to look into one of those options to make sure your 8 is always running within acceptable parameters
11-19-2007, 02:03 PM
#58
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Thread Starter
I see.........yes I will look into that, right now all I can really hope for is that once I change out the coils, sparks and plug wires ( I know its over kill but hell, I was planning to do it anyways) the problem will go away.........if not then I'm really fucked
11-19-2007, 02:10 PM
#59
Administrator
iTrader: (7)
what wires are you going with? I picked up the RB ones and they're quite nice.
11-19-2007, 02:10 PM
#60
Administrator
iTrader: (7)
here's your scanalyzer:
http://www.mazdaparts.com/ProductDet...000-1151625265
http://www.mazdaparts.com/ProductDet...000-1151625265
11-19-2007, 02:21 PM
#63
Administrator
iTrader: (7)
make sure you register with the site, it'll save you a few bucks on the 'gold pricing'.
11-19-2007, 02:23 PM
#64
What? Like a puma?
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Birmingham, AL
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Had this problem myself
I had a AT 8 for a while. Before I traded it in for my MT I had the same problem with the tach swinging wildly. Turned out there was all kinds of **** wrong. The engine was replaced before I bought the car and the mechanic evidently didn't know what the hell he was doing, or just wasn't paying attention. The dealership gave me a list of issues. Not the least of which was a cracked engine block from the alternator being cross-threaded when it was installed. But the part they claimed would have effected the idle was the injector seals and ignition coils they had to replace. I know you are already replacing the coils. Maybe you should check the seals too.
11-19-2007, 07:40 PM
#66
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Thread Starter
ok, Today I cleaned the MAF sensor, the problem seems to vastly improve, the car does not die at high speeds when coasting in neutral anymore, however I still have some swings at about 30-40 mph, but at least now its driveable, I will be putting in the coils and sparks tomorrow
11-19-2007, 08:30 PM
#67
ok, Today I cleaned the MAF sensor, the problem seems to vastly improve, the car does not die at high speeds when coasting in neutral anymore, however I still have some swings at about 30-40 mph, but at least now its driveable, I will be putting in the coils and sparks tomorrow
11-19-2007, 08:38 PM
#68
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Thread Starter
dude, I dont have the damn stock intake! jesus! John took it and I never saw her again!, if I did I WOULD put it back....sigh, right now I'll have to live with this shitty *** HKS..........
11-19-2007, 10:11 PM
#69
Well ask jesus or john to borrow it back...I'm sure you could ask someone in your area to lend you one...provided you promise not to paint it gold...
11-20-2007, 09:34 AM
#71
If a manual car is decelerating - with the throttle shut - the injectors go to zero, no fuel, to prevent backfires in the muffler. I'm not sure if the same would apply to an Auto, but there is a simple solution; don't do it anymore......
S
(Doctor, it hurts when I put my arm like THIS!
.........Well don't do it.)
S
(Doctor, it hurts when I put my arm like THIS!
.........Well don't do it.)
As far as I know it's a normal condition. I know of two members who sold there 8's because of this. (They had other problems too)
Let me see... if I drive my car off road and damage the muffler... maybe I shouldn't drive off road.
11-20-2007, 10:58 AM
#74
Registered
But it is more clutch disengagement/engagement for each gear down, and brakes are a lot cheaper to replace than a clutch.
It does make sense to leave the car in gear until rpm is near idle, though, rather than kicking it into neutral or declutching immediately. Don't know about rotaries, but it does a piston engine some good to give it some breathing time.
Ken
