That is just one example, there are many other water wetter related sludge complaints on various sites; in the Ferrari forums, racing oriented forums, etc. And without tearing your engine apart ho do you know it is fine and why don't you run it now? Just because it is distilled water does not mean it is free of impurities, the level of impurities varies widely depending brand. Look up some tests on distilled water relating to fish tank setups.

Redline folks are tying to sell you a product so they will tell you whatever they think you want to hear.

... looked in the mirror lately?

I am running it right now as well, with mazda coolant, just didn't have the time to flush the system and put the distiled water plus water wetter in... omg my coolant system is going to turn into sluge monster..I am doomed..what have I done

I do have one data point that is actually relevant..it is not some other car, some other engine, some other coolant

Redline folks are excellent, sent email to them this morning and 2 hours later got answer from Dave that main lubrication engineer with straight answer..try that with big oil corporation

I have emailed Mobil1's tech guys a few times, responses are almost instant, and are instant if you call. But again, they sell a product so take the info with a grain of salt.

And what is your one data point?

Friends don't let friends use Water Wetter.

But those are just guys on the internet, they don't as much nor will they be as truthful as a Redline employee.

my recommendation to him is to use it with distilled water, no chance of adverse reactions there with coolant additive chemistry. I ran it that way in my S1 and it was fine.

here is competitor explanation on why brown stuff forms when mixed with certain coolants:

But yet you are currently running it with 50/50 and not water. Makes sense.

15-20F cooler in straight water? Okay

what can I say I like living on the edge...not really

from my previous post "just didn't have the time to flush the system and put the distilled water plus water wetter in"

It's ok, nobody expects just some dude on the internet to follow his own advice

^^Just kidding btw, we're all 'just some dude on the internet'

Even competitors don't agree, so in the end we all have to decide for ourselves and hope for the best:

No-Rosion Products Technical Questions and Answers


Ps: looks like Lucas Supercoolant is just repackaged Hyperkuhl from No-Rosion



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Switched out the Mazmart thermostat for and new OEM one today. Slight increase in coolant temps, but still only managed 170F. It was a little hotter today here too...~85F. Put in a new temp sensor during the rebuild too so I think what I"m seeing is correct. I guess my cooling system is just really efficient. We'll see what happens when I'm done breaking in the engine and do some autocross.

FYI, I used distilled water PLUS water wetter in my 99 Miata track toy for several years without any issues. Aluminum radiator too. Flushed once/year.

Smutter. I'd guess your new temp sensor may be a little different then stock.

Take it out. Make a cup of coffee. Drop it(while plugged into the car and a thermometer in the cup then compare the temps.

Yeah and what conditions are you seeing 170F? Idle?

The sensor was new from Atkins or Mazdaspeed, can't remember which. Wish I would of thought to test it while changing the thermostat yesterday, damn it.

Yeah, basically the warmest the car gets is in the driveway at idle. As soon as I start moving, say cruising at 3500rpm the temps fall to 150's. If i drop down a few gears and get the revs up I can just barely get back to 170F, again just cruising, not putting the hammer down or anything.

Oh, well that doesn't mean a whole lot.

Are the radiator fans running?

Weird. At around the same ambient temperature, my car will idle up to about 215F, then drop to about 180F after the thermostat fully opens, and the fans come on. At cruising speed and runnng about 3500RPM, it will sit right at 180F. When I flog it hard at the track, it will peak at 219F.

It sounds to me like you have a stuck thermostat or radiator fans that are running constantly.

If you need me to, I can turn on my data logger and log it through a complete idle cycle for you. I won't be able to do it until Sunday, though. I have an S2 car with a Koyo radiator, so the comparison will not be exactly apples to apples. Let me know if you think that would be helpful.

Wow 170 good for you smutter! Even if just at idle, have you tested it by going out ad driving then coming bakc and let it sit at idle?

I see 212 all the time in traffic, I would love to find out to constantly keep it below 200 if possible at all times and am not sure how to go about that. I have seen people post that they stay at 185-190 all day and I am jealous! All I keep thinking about is the mazsport fan thing to turn the fans on sooner on HIGH but 9K says it is worthless as others have also said, but I have no clue how to keep those temps down. Otherwise what is the normal high fans turn on temp 215? I will putter over 214 and never see the fans come on high except if I am using the AC for a while.

I know this thread is about normal operating temps but how about normal intake temps. I have seen different posts of eople showing graphs with their intake temps n all that. I pulled into the garage after a drive home with some light traffic and my AIT said 144 degrees. I dont know if thats good or bad exactly.

That's high, but I see those IAT's regulary(turbo) and still don't get over 200F. Do you have any intake mods on you car?

I do have an AEM cold air intake that came with the car but thats it. Aside from the fans on low mod and a fresh coolant swap.

So your IAT are also into the 140s? Whats considered to be good/bad/normal for this car when it comes to proper IAT?

I don't know what IAT's normally run on a non turbo car, but my intake cooling is not fully set up that's why mine get so high. Just crusing and light traffic I never get over 10 degrees above the outside temps.


AEM intake is just fine. Some people have K&N which will increase the intake heat considerably.

here is an example I took this morning when I puled into work. Some traffic going to work, only 75 degrees outside but this is what my temps were on the scangauge. over 150 IAT and 203 coolant. I am guessing the IAT is what is causing the coolant to also be high?

As mentioned in the other thread you are involved in about coolant temps, I bet you have a radiator and/or coolant line restriction. IATs will not affect coolant appreciably.

I'll for sure have to take a look at that option on a radiator or line replacement. Is there any way of testing the lines or cleaning them out? I just did a coolant swap this weekend and the guy told me the old coolant came out very clean almost as if it was new. Having not known when it was last changed is why I decided just to do a change all together. I am not sure if a blocked line would show signs of deposits in the coolant or not.