swoope

iTrader: (5)

ok,

thanks, i was thinking i missed part of the manual.. that would be bad... what do you have them preset at??

beers

mehidi@mail.com

when the ambient temp is 90°F to 95°F my temp in high traffic is around 189°F to 194°F. when i am cruising at 60mhp+ it is at 190°F to 196°F. when i am driving locally it is 187°F to 190°F. during the winter it was the same. right around end of may i removed the battery and intake shrouding from the front. i figured that the air from the radiator was hitting a wall, so to increase flow i took everything off. btw i am turbo. it seems from the # u guys are seeing that this actually works. what do u think jeff?

Vlaze

iTrader: (14)

For improvements what I've noticed are:

1) If you have an aftermarket front bumper with a wider opening for both radiator and oil cooler it will help on the highway
2) Mazport water pump and thermostat upgrades will help a lot with better cooling
3) Running a mixture of 70/30, 80/20 or higher in water to coolant ratio will also help the engine run cooler

Since doing all of the above except #1 (I reverted back to an OEM bumper due to mounting issues) when in a town/city setting and traffic in front of me cutting off air flow I see only 200~210F max for water on a 90F+ day; that's with very high humidity as well. On highway I see around 180~185F on the same type of day. If in the 70~80's I see around 180~190F in the city and 170~180 on the highway. 70F is 170~180F in city, 160 on highway consistently. Less than 65F during some evening drives netted me 170F in city and 150F on the highway.


Before on a very hot day in the city would net me 220~230F, highway the same around 180F

TNTNick

Hi im from the Caribbean an most days is about 93°F and my car never runs is under 220°F it normally runs about 220°F -233°F . I got worry and changed out the Termosat and ever up the fans and still it runs about that does anyone know what else i can do. Im rely not happy with it running at this high temperature

cloud19

If you're running that high it's dangerous for the engine. You need to do several things to lower your temps.

Changing out to a lower theromstat and making sure your undertray is on properly are two fairly easy steps.

Making sure your fans come on earlier is another.

You'll find plenty of how-to's regarding cooling just take a look.

Vlaze

iTrader: (14)

Upgrade to a Mazmart water pump and change your fluid ratio to 80~100% water with water wetter

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

If you are running at these temps then there is a problem with your cooling system. The mazmart pump is not really an upgrade and would be a waste of money. If you want to replace your pump just get a quality aftermarket pump from your local auto parts store. And running a higher water percentage will just increase the chance of corrosion inside the engine and water wetter is snake oil.

Start first by checking for leaks at the weep hole on the water pump. Then if you are sure there are no leaks then you need to pressure test your cooling system. If your cooling system pressure test results are good then you need to do a flush of the entire cooling system and make sure your AC condenser and radiator are not clogged with dirt, etc. The best bet would be to remove the condenser and radiator and clean them properly. Then test your fans to ensure they are working properly.

Remember, it is a system and the stock system works fine and should easily keep your temp in the normal range. But one fault in the system and things may not work right.

See #17.

http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/2003mazdar..._S01_0016.html

I am turbocharged and live in South Texas where it is much hotter than in the Carribean and overheating on a NA RX-8 is not an issue when the system is working properly, even in 100+ Fahrenheit temps.

04Green

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, that is hot.

Check the Congrats thread below, specifically the fans on low and radiator foam ones. Should make a difference. Also, make sure your fans are working. For fans, check the troubleshooting stickies. https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...o-i-do-258334/

Vlaze

iTrader: (14)

The combination of the T-stat and the Mazmart pump lowered my nominal and max temperature where it never ran past 220F when stuck in traffic unable to move in near 100F temperature with humidity. Before, it ran over 230F (235~237F IIRC) so I disagree it was a waste of money at all.

If you use tap water then which isn't recommended then yes, corrosion can be an issue; use distilled.

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

I too had the Mazmart pump and Tstat, it made no difference at all. But then again I wasn't having issues to begin with, they were just added thinking they would make a difference and they did not. Lots of hype and the simulations Legot ran also will give you a bit of insight on the topic as well. The updated stock pump works just fine.

And most available distilled water still contains impurities and will still corrode a system.

Vlaze

iTrader: (14)

There are more factors involved such as environment, driving conditions and engine oil weight being used that can and will influence the temperature.

If I were in your shoes I may as well call it hype as well. Instead, it made a difference so it's wasn't hype to me nor others who have experienced similar results.

In the long run if you don't flush your cooling system then yes, corrosion can be an issue. In regards to the periodic changing period it's negligible IMO.

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

I think the biggest thing is that most install it when they are fixing issues with the cooling system so they see improvements and attribute it to the MM pump and tstat. A couple other locals have the combo as well, we all run pretty similar temps and have pretty different setups cooling wise and the consensus is that the MM parts (except the MM/Ron Davis Rad) were probably not worth the extra cost.

I agree on flushing the coolant but the best upgrade myself and others locally made was the addition of the FAL dual fans, they cool things down much faster than the stock fans. I also run Evans waterless coolant, but I can't say yet whether that did anything beneficial yet or not.

Steve Dallas

At 220F, both thermostats would be fully open, therefore no difference would be realized. If you moved from the original water pump design to the MazMart, you would see a difference in cooling performance. If you moved from the improved design to the MazMart, the difference should be negligible under most circumstances.

Smutterbutter

I've got the opposite issue. Fresh rebuild (300mi) with both mazmart water pump and thermostat, new Koyo radiator. With ambient temps around 70F, my coolant temp MAX's out at 165F! This is according to my Cobb AP, havent wired up the water temp gauge yet. Probably going to go back to the OEM thermostat to see what happens. Any other ideas?

Steve Dallas

165F while doing what, exactly? Cruising down the highway at 3.5K? Sitting in traffic? After rowing through the gears?

A street driven 8 with the updated or MazMart water pump does not need the colder thermostat, IMHO--especially with a radiator upgrade.

Smutterbutter

Even prolonged highway driving while keeping revs up at around 5K I max out at 165. I'm still breaking in the engine so I haven't gotten near redline yet. I'm going to put the OEM thermostat back in tomorrow to see if that helps.

Steve Dallas

Yeah. That's too low. Normal operating temp at cruising speeds should be close to 180F. With your water pump and the Koyo, I would definitely recommend an OEM temp thermostat since you are not tracking the car.

logalinipoo

The thermostat should allow it to heat up . Even if you are overcooling. IT will get hot then open cool and close. Like an old Chevy up and down. If the old thermostat does not do it I would change the temp sensor.

Steve Dallas

The thermostat could also be stuck open. All the more reason to swap it for an OEM one as a first step...

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

170ish is normal for low air temp and this t-stat while cruising low load, plus you have an oversize radiator

Nadrealista

TNTNick since you are in the Caribbean dump the coolant and run water with redline water wetter and you should be set.

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Yeah all set for corrosion.

Nadrealista

water wetter takes care of that:

Rust and corrosion protection allows for use of straight water in racing or reduced antifreeze levels in warm climates

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Yeah and if you believe that I have some ocean front property in Arizona I want to sell you.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...&Number=612422

Nadrealista

I ran it with distilled water in my 04 S1 and it was perfectly fine..it could have been many other reasons why this guy had gunk in his cooling system. Redline folks know their stuff much better than some dude posting on internet forum....

especially since he would run it with distiled water so no chance of some odd reaction with coolant