New battery, now car won't hold idle
09-11-2010, 07:35 AM
#1
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New battery, now car won't hold idle
I just changed battery, due to the old one was totally flat a 6 year old battery.
I wasnt sure what to get went down to local car store and picked up a 350 CCA heavy duty brand battery.
Put it in started up the car it was fine, left it running for a while until the temp needle was in the middle turn the car off.
15mins later wanted to go down the shop so i start the car up again, the idle drop until the car stall, the only way to hold idle is to press the gas pedal.
Was the battery i replaced the wrong type causing this to happen? or should i drive it around a bit when at stoping lights put my foot on the gas pedal to stop it from stalling and hope it would go away?
Thanks
I wasnt sure what to get went down to local car store and picked up a 350 CCA heavy duty brand battery.
Put it in started up the car it was fine, left it running for a while until the temp needle was in the middle turn the car off.
15mins later wanted to go down the shop so i start the car up again, the idle drop until the car stall, the only way to hold idle is to press the gas pedal.
Was the battery i replaced the wrong type causing this to happen? or should i drive it around a bit when at stoping lights put my foot on the gas pedal to stop it from stalling and hope it would go away?
Thanks
09-11-2010, 09:05 AM
#3
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It could be just re-learning the fuel trims since the battery was disconnected. This can cause stalling for just a few drive cycles after changing the battery. Give it a few drive cycles and see if it settles down.
However..............I believe you are going to have other issues eventually as 350CCA is not enough in my opinion. Most people I know of are running at least 640CCA. Anybody know what the spec truly is? I forget....but I think it's 525?????????
I'm running with a 720CCA battery
However..............I believe you are going to have other issues eventually as 350CCA is not enough in my opinion. Most people I know of are running at least 640CCA. Anybody know what the spec truly is? I forget....but I think it's 525?????????
I'm running with a 720CCA battery
Last edited by Mazurfer; 09-11-2010 at 09:15 AM.
09-11-2010, 07:42 PM
#9
600CCA or better is enough.
350 CCA is WAY too low, even for non-freezing climates.
Just mind you, a healthy car should NOT stall, even when the battery has been unplugged. BUT ! the Factory ECU tune is pretty good at "masking" these symptoms AFTER a few drive cycles.
350 CCA is WAY too low, even for non-freezing climates.
Just mind you, a healthy car should NOT stall, even when the battery has been unplugged. BUT ! the Factory ECU tune is pretty good at "masking" these symptoms AFTER a few drive cycles.
09-12-2010, 06:22 PM
#10
Lubricious
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It may clear up in a few drives. Fuel trims, as stated. And also the battery may be accepting a strong charge, depending on how long it was sitting. The alternator can put a decent drag on the engine in such a case, but a long drive should charge things up fully.
In any case I'd double-check the battery connections to make sure they're clean and tight. A loose terminal clamp can cause these symptoms.
If none of this helps, worst-case your alternator may not be charging the battery and you'll end up with another flat battery.
In any case I'd double-check the battery connections to make sure they're clean and tight. A loose terminal clamp can cause these symptoms.
If none of this helps, worst-case your alternator may not be charging the battery and you'll end up with another flat battery.
Last edited by Nubo; 09-12-2010 at 06:24 PM.
09-12-2010, 08:14 PM
#11
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This battery is below min spec. This is not some 1st gen Rx7 without power stuff all Rx8 are power window & locks and what not. Take it back like people say and get min spec battery. Then buy cleaning tool & spray for your terminals. Sometimes oil and crap get on the contact.
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