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New battery, now car won't hold idle

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Old Sep 11, 2010 | 07:35 AM
  #1  
bedohave's Avatar
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New battery, now car won't hold idle

I just changed battery, due to the old one was totally flat a 6 year old battery.
I wasnt sure what to get went down to local car store and picked up a 350 CCA heavy duty brand battery.
Put it in started up the car it was fine, left it running for a while until the temp needle was in the middle turn the car off.
15mins later wanted to go down the shop so i start the car up again, the idle drop until the car stall, the only way to hold idle is to press the gas pedal.

Was the battery i replaced the wrong type causing this to happen? or should i drive it around a bit when at stoping lights put my foot on the gas pedal to stop it from stalling and hope it would go away?

Thanks
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Old Sep 11, 2010 | 08:20 AM
  #2  
avanti_racing08's Avatar
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From: Lebanon CT
this sounds like another fuel pressure or fuel pump/filter issue. i dont see a batt being the issue here
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Old Sep 11, 2010 | 09:05 AM
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From: Indialantic, Florida
It could be just re-learning the fuel trims since the battery was disconnected. This can cause stalling for just a few drive cycles after changing the battery. Give it a few drive cycles and see if it settles down.

However..............I believe you are going to have other issues eventually as 350CCA is not enough in my opinion. Most people I know of are running at least 640CCA. Anybody know what the spec truly is? I forget....but I think it's 525?????????
I'm running with a 720CCA battery

Last edited by Mazurfer; Sep 11, 2010 at 09:15 AM.
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Old Sep 11, 2010 | 12:03 PM
  #4  
laythor's Avatar
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From: San Jose, CA
750CCA for mine
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Old Sep 11, 2010 | 12:12 PM
  #5  
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350 is tiny... but the symptoms sound like fuel trims being reset.
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Old Sep 11, 2010 | 12:47 PM
  #6  
Razz1's Avatar
Mu ha.. ha...
 
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From: Cali
Just drive it around a few times the ECU will relearn the tune.

Butt... I would return it as 350 CCa is too small.
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Old Sep 11, 2010 | 05:50 PM
  #7  
bedohave's Avatar
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What, CCA Rating should i get? it might fix this issues.
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Old Sep 11, 2010 | 06:56 PM
  #8  
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650 or better.
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Old Sep 11, 2010 | 07:42 PM
  #9  
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600CCA or better is enough.

350 CCA is WAY too low, even for non-freezing climates.

Just mind you, a healthy car should NOT stall, even when the battery has been unplugged. BUT ! the Factory ECU tune is pretty good at "masking" these symptoms AFTER a few drive cycles.
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Old Sep 12, 2010 | 06:22 PM
  #10  
Nubo's Avatar
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From: SF Bay Area, California
It may clear up in a few drives. Fuel trims, as stated. And also the battery may be accepting a strong charge, depending on how long it was sitting. The alternator can put a decent drag on the engine in such a case, but a long drive should charge things up fully.

In any case I'd double-check the battery connections to make sure they're clean and tight. A loose terminal clamp can cause these symptoms.

If none of this helps, worst-case your alternator may not be charging the battery and you'll end up with another flat battery.

Last edited by Nubo; Sep 12, 2010 at 06:24 PM.
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Old Sep 12, 2010 | 08:14 PM
  #11  
VashGS's Avatar
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From: Texas Hill County
This battery is below min spec. This is not some 1st gen Rx7 without power stuff all Rx8 are power window & locks and what not. Take it back like people say and get min spec battery. Then buy cleaning tool & spray for your terminals. Sometimes oil and crap get on the contact.
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Old Sep 12, 2010 | 09:37 PM
  #12  
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I drive at Red Line.
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From: Dallas, TX
baking soda and water works just as good as any electrical cleaner on terminals.
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