That and it makes a mess, and I wasn't sure what temperature range the spray stuff could handle.

It's on the can. I have seen at least 1500 degree rating.
You can use painters tape to contain the spray and make it neat.

Also... just wondering... why did you not buy an BHR radiator?

Using push in foam works just fine and I can remove it easily when working on things. The Spray shit is just a hassle, I don't want that shit all over my custom oil cooler lines, turbo piping, and whatever else it can get on.

I didn't buy the Griffin for the same reason I didn't buy the Ron Davis, AWR, PWR, etc., etc. I didn't get those free. The Mizu radiator is well constructed, dual core, and has great fin density. If I ever feel the need to pay $600.00 for a radiator then I will looks at other options. But, being able to compare this directly to a Mazmart unit and a Koyo unit was nice because I could see how well this one is constructed. It's likely the cores of the more expensive units perform better under some conditions but this one works just fine.

It just sucks that they didn't use SPAL or FAL fans on the fan shrouds. But then again if they did it would be a lot more expensive.

is the oem rad a dual or single core? The reason I ask is if oem has a single core and it is replaced by a dual core then that greatly affects the water pumps ability.

I have heard both but I am pretty sure the OEM is a single core. It's pretty thin. Thinner may be better, who knows.

increasing the radiator cores really slows the coolant down and that has to be taken into consideration when designing a system.
This may be a reason why people are not getting as good a results from radiator "upgrades" over oem? IDK--but its possible.

The only place it slows down is in the Radiator...so that would be a good thing:)

Are the new fans the 410-420 ones on the flex-a-lite website? They look nice, waiting to hear your opinion on them once installed. I'm pretty sure my oem ones are about to crap out, no coolant temp change yet, but they are a lot quieter now which is getting my attention.

Not sure, it's the 680 dual fan setup I think. I'll check the box.

Why Am i being told not to hard wire this? that i would need a new wiring harnace. I looks like you did it here?? HELP

Update:

The FAL unit rocks, even in this 100F weather it's rare that I get above 205F or so unless I'm pushing really hard and I have not been able to get above 215F or so.

Let me get this

because my Koyo never overheat, going up a hill, bridge, mountain. beat the shit out of it, just never had issues. and it's 1/2 the price

RonDavis/Mazmart works just as well. if not better.

Now I'm using Knight Sports which double the size of stock rad. so I'm good :)

Can you confirm the model number?

And holly crap 215*f??? What are your turn on temps? coolant ratio?

I spaz out at 205* and kill the a/c, then it drops back to 18X* and I repeat the cycle.

Maybe my fans are okay.. we have similar temps here and as long as I'm driving normally the temp stays under 195 (a/c off). But with the a/c on it just keeps climbing in traffic, on the hwy it stays under 200 with the ac on.

Model number of what? The FAL's? IIRC (don't quote me but it's on the FAL site)There is a 200 series dual fan setup (2700cfm) and 400 series (3300cfm) I have the 200 series, Hoss-05 bought the 400 series. The different model numbers within the series are just to differentiate which come with the FAL fan controller and which does not. If you are running the Cobb and know how to use ATR then you don't really need the FAL controller. But it is a really nice controller and it would make changing the fan on/off temp very easy.

Also Jegs makes their own dual fan setup that basically mimics the FAL but is much cheaper if you need new fans and are on a budget. They offer a good warranty on their products as well. If you need the measurements of the factory setup let me know.

205F in this weather is normal for a stock RX-8. 215F max is fine, you want to stay out of the 230F+ range as staying in that range or above for more than a few seconds with stock water seals can damage the motor permanently. I am running Pineapple Racing heavy duty water seals. I am turbocharged so I have a water cooled turbo adding heat to my coolant as well.

But before you go upgrading stuff check the basics and make sure your coolant is good, good thermostat, WP, radiator foam seals are in place, etc. The factory radiator, fans, etc. are actually very good if they are working properly.

Thanks for the info.
I figured I didn't need the control unit, I do use ATR and have my fans set L185/H194. I just get real nervous above 210, ever owned a s4FC? I had 2, it taught me fast when to back off. Damn dummy gauges lol. But thanks for saying whats safe, I figured +220* was the red zone.

IIRC, radiator is 26.25, 15.5, 4?

Going to have to check out the jegs site. I'm going to need a new radiator too. I have a crack on the upper large hose, not bad enough to leak, but it's only a matter of time, and I'm not dropping it twice.

Coolant is less than 4 months old, 70/30 water/coolant, with watterwetter. (I run this in all my cars) Hoses are all new, silicone. Not sure on water pump and thermostat, coolant temps are very predictable when it's warming up. Never jumps around a lot, always opens around 181. Fans seem to be making a lot less noise than they use to, but I have no complaints about my a/c performance at idle. Sure it works a lot better when I'm moving, but it keeps the output temps in the 60's idling. Only coolant temps seem to be the problem.

Never saw over 195 last year, this year 212. That is with the a/c on, with the a/c off it rarely gets over 195, even driving aggressive. I just want some fans that keep my temps under 200 no matter what I do with my a/c on. :lol:

One problem I do know of, and I'm an idiot for never addressing it, I am missing the foam on the bottom of the radiator. But I have no complaints on coolant temps while moving, once I'm cruising at +40 temps are never a problem. But also, if I just let the car idle, and idle with the a/c on it stabilizes around 200-205, depending on outside temps. Weird.

so your main concern seems to be the coolant temps with the a/c on?
You have the oem thermostat and water pump --correct?
The oem thermostat doesnt fully ope until around 200F--if I remember correctly. First step get the mazmart 180F thermostat? It would also help to get the mazmart water pump.

One of the main problems with our oem cooling system is that big assed a/c condenser in front of it. It puts out a lot of heat, when it is being used and blocks air flow all the time.
Another main problem is that the heater circuit coolant ( and the amount is substantial) never sees the radiator. So it is never cooled and you have hot coolant mixing with the cooled coolant returning from the radiator at the thermostat housing.
One good solution is a secondary radiator fed from the heater hose circuit. There is a vendor that has a new aluminum belly pan with a small radiator/its own thermostat and a small fan that will work very well in addressing those times when your a/c is on. Or you can do a DIY system.
Our radiator depends a LOT on the fans. It is mounted at such an angle that free airflow itself is greatly reduced. Airflow through a radiator only occurs when there is a pressure difference between the front and the rear of it. That is one reason that low speed cooling on our cars need a little help and the reason that good fans make such a difference.
The FAL controller operates both fans at the same time with variable speeds. This increases the cooling of the entire face front of the rad, not just one side of it as in oem. The oem set up brings the second fan up only after the coolant becomes even hotter--not the best imho.
The cooling system in our car is actually pretty good, but it can stand a little help in certain circumstances.

I was actually thinking of trying one of your other suggestions for now that you mentioned in a pm, moving the condenser a little forward of the radiator. Hate to lose a/c performance, but I'm still hunting down a oil leak and I have to see what financial adventure that takes me on first. Till then, I'll sweat it out.

Let me add one little tid bit about the secondary rad, I have a fan on mine (came that way from Derale) and it sucks air through that cooler like you would not believe.

But guess what? It does very little to lower the overall temp of the coolant. At idle with it on it may drop coolant temps 1-2 degrees, that is it and at speed it is useless. When I get around to it I will probably just remove the fan altogether because it is blocking flow through the secondary rad. The main reason I have the secondary rad is to deal with the heat added by the turbo and think it along with the FAL fans I think they are working nicely.

I did space out the condenser from the rad but it did not seem to do anything to the temps so I put it back the way it was. But really there is nothing you can do with it aside from removing it all together. The cooler on the tray mod is useless without ducting to it, I tried that.

Guess there is no way to tell if I already have the mazmart water pump and thermostat? I read they use the same housing.

How sure are you on the thermostat? Because mine defiantly opens at 180, 180-200 to open seems like a long range.

When warming up fully at idle the coolant goes up to 183 then drops to 179 then very slowly goes back up, can take a couple of mins for it to reach 185.

I actually disagree on the Mazmart thermo and pump, I saw no difference really in temps with them installed when compared to other 8's running stock setup locally.

In the colder months I run 175 temp versus 185....

Yeah that is about what Hoss-05's car runs with a completely stock setup in cooler weather, around 179F or so.

Werd... too bad none of us will be stock by the time it gets cold again! So we can have a true test.

I pulled my OEM thermostat a month or so ago. Tested in it a pot of water that I brought up to a boil, measuring points with an IR thermometer. The Mazmart one started moving by 170F, and was fully open by 190F. The OEM one started opening at 183 (as it's supposed to), but at the 203F that it is supposed to be open by, it was only 1/3rd open and only slowly creeping open from there.

Put the Mazmart thermostat back in and monitored coolant temps. Highway cruise used to be sitting at 185-190F, with the Mazmart it sits at 172F

Its too cold where you live....

When its Texas outside your temps sit at 200 ish with the ac on around 4000 rpm.

at 3600rpm with no ac temps are around 185-190.