Curtis f

Did you even read the thread .... and besides I didnt buy my 8 to *****-foot around with , my car see's alot of track time . But I do agree the 9000k clutch drops arnt really called for at the track and EAT U-joints .... but they sure are fun i wanna look back on my rx8 days when im done and think "Dam that was a fun car"

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

well actually they list a replacement u-joint

D-Code Part Number Description Price
25-060S P003-25-060A JOINT SET,UNIVERSAL $83.40

However, it wasn't shown in the parts diagram, just the listing. Got this from the Motorsports site, so maybe it is not something they sell to just anyone, unless it applies only to the non-CF driveshaft used on the auto trans cars, hard for me to say.

ASH8

Technically, VIA Mazda EPC the P003-25-060A U Joint is for the 2003 NB MX-5 Prop Shaft with Turbo...

This Mazda Part number cross references to No other Mazda model...

Now having said that, I was about to say, someone could try and see if the UJ will fit on a RX-8 Prop Shaft.

I then did a check on-line at Montgomery's Mazda..

And they say Universal joints, rx-8 2004 - 2005 $65.04???

So it could possibly be the case, although the US site is not always correct (reference Reverse and Neutral Switch)

So, IF the info is correct, this U Joint should fit ALL RX-8 as there has been NO Change in Prop Shaft Assembly Part Number. (PC01-25-100E Manual Prop Shaft Assy)
For S1 or S2 manual.

ASH8

The out of date old 2004 LHD RX-8 PDF shows the U-Joints as an available Part ...

Good find TEAM!!!



Latest EPC does not..

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

Thanks Ash, I was hoping you could look into it.

ASH8

No problem

Normally I would not check the Old RX-8 PDF "Book"...

So provided your Carbon Fiber Manual Shaft is not damaged you can replace the Universal Joints.
Also the same UJ for Auto..

This will save a TON of Money!

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

HMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM this is pretty interesting.

is it the same for FC ...

ASH8

I really doubt it as this part number model code starts at year 2003.

Try it, All you could lose is $60 bucks.....oops...

Having a look around for you J, so far no good, will let you know if I find one.
Need to look at Mazda's made around the era of FC, that have a prop shaft, the closest is NA MX-5..or maybe the 929 or Eunos..

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Thanks and no Thanks. I am not gonna pay 60 bux just to "try and see if it works"

I just took the Drive Shaft off my FC today (+ UIM + A/C compressor out + some other junk)

it looks like the joints have no play, which is good. but it has some rust around the area so Im not sure if I still wanna re-use it. thinking

ASH8

Try this..
http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.ph...riveshaft+yoke

https://www.powertrainindustries.com/catalogs.htm

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

well I saw that thread already (Im the SEARCH devil muhahahaha)

but not sure if I wanna do that ... Im still thinking.

Kaiser bun

iTrader: (2)

Thread bump! so has anyone replaced u-joints yet? or is a new Driveshaft required? I have been informed that mine needs to be replaced at some point, and im not liking the idea of a $1500 bill.

Kaiser bun

iTrader: (2)

Another bumb, anyone??

edit: called a dealer and they told me that this part number is no longer availiable...

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

They are right, that part number is NLA, you can always try to get it from Japan. I'm sure they will have something.

Well, there is a driveshaft shop in Long Island that they said they can find and replace any U-joints. I mean it's just a damn U-joint being held down with probably 2 C-clamps or something. I'm not willing to take my Shaft out just to try it. I actually gonna look for a used shaft from a junk yard, bring it there and see what they say, gonna take a while tho, cuz I'm busy as **** lately, don't even have time to take my car for a paint job.

anthonyallred

Took my driveshaft out last night and its got some nasty scratches, hope it doesn't explode. Cant see why it got so scratched but im going to put it back in. How risky is this?

Blacknightz

Guys, regarding the propeller shaft... The joints area, is it suppose to be jerky but still movable kind of motion for both ends or is it suppose to be smooth as silk like a ball bearing when you turn the joints around?

Phil Bate

On the three or four prop shafts I've handled, the UJs seem to have a slight 'notch' in the mid-position in both the horizontal and vertical plane. This is at both ends.

Apart from said notchy bits the movement is smooth


Phil

Mazmart

iTrader: (12)

The answer to this entire thread is: Notchiness in most driveshafts is NORMAL and no need for alarm or spending a dime. I've been selling used ones for 20 years now and am quite familiar with it even in units with under 10k miles. Strong resistance is a problem. Some cars are more prone to U-JOINT failure than others. I think the FC RX-7 would last 150k plus miles with normal driving but since those cars were so durable (86-88 often had engines last past that point as well), we would start to hear of clicking sounds when reversing which was a sign it was going bad and then vibration. Failure to replace when it actually IS bad would lead to transmission output breakage.

The OP was a regular 'clutch dropper' so he was doing more wear than most people to many components. The rest of us do not need to be too concerned as there is no epidemic present

Paul.

Blacknightz

@Phil Bate... Thanks for the feedback, yea... the mechanic still insisted that it should be smooth as silk and should not have any notichiness...


@Mazmart (Paul)... Thank you... Well, the mechanic insisted that the propeller shaft was the culprit that busted my differential...

But it was him that helped changed the final drive and lsd... and a month later, a whining sound emerged... he pointed to the propeller shaft being faulty and so caused the differential to not run smooth...
then he pointed to the joints of the propeller shaft and said that it should be smooth when turning and not having any jerk or notch when rotating it...

so.............

TBAGG

Has anyone had any luck finding replacement U-Joints for the driveshaft?

Has anyone has any luck installing an OEM Replacement? If so, what OEM replacement did you use? I was looking at this one but it seems to be steel instead of carbon fibre.

2004 Mazda RX8 Drive Shaft - Mazda RX8 Driveline - Free Shipping


My mechanic replaced my clutch last week. During the replacement he gave me a call to let me know my U-Joints were showing extreme signs of wear. He had trouble sourcing the u-joint part and notified me that mazda wanted $1900 CDN for a brand new drive shaft.

We ended up putting the old worn u-joints back in my car. So - now I am trying to figure out how to best approach this repair.

This seems to be the #1 U-JOINT thread. I have a series I 2004 with 170,000km. any help would be appreciated.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

I probably gonna try to order that part on my next "japan shopping list"

but probably wont happen till some time next month.

TBAGG

OK Great. Keep us posted.

TBAGG

All,

Just wanted to let you know I ended up going with an OEM Steel Shaft driveline from a company called proven force. It was installed in November. It's worked fine the last 4 months. I don't really notice any performance differences over the carbon fibre shaft. (and it's a hell of a lot cheaper!)

Drivelines Driveshafts Domestic & Foreign Cars, Pickup & Heavy Duty | Proven Force Minneapolis MN

Just thought I'd share since I ended up doing a decent amount of investigation...

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

u should have told me, I give u mine for 50 bux + shipping

lol

The Slowcho

Would an aluminum ds be a good alternative if you don't drive it as hard?

I daily mine and don't find myself at 9k that often. I had to replace the ds with a used one, but I feel it might be wearing out as well.
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