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Make your own shortshifter

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Old Mar 16, 2006 | 10:38 PM
  #26  
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From: CA, Rowland Hts.
Never had a problem with the AFE short shifter. there was more noise until i put teflon around the screwing for the ****. sounds just fine now.
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Old Mar 17, 2006 | 12:36 AM
  #27  
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From: Melbourne, Australia.
Originally Posted by rotarenvy
....then there is the mazda speed shifter which looks like they have changed the leverage but also includes a spacer to move the pivot point of the shifter up. I think I know what they are doing here but why doesn't the r-magic one need the spacer?
You are aware that the R Magic shifter is made by Richard Paul and exported from California to Japan??

It is the Axialflow Engineering shifter. It doesn't need the spacer because Richard designed it that way to make installation easier. It's done through a change in geometry.
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Old Mar 17, 2006 | 12:49 AM
  #28  
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From: QLD .au
yeah I did know but r-magic is where I stole the pic from.

I think I'll just use a spacer.
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Old Mar 17, 2006 | 10:26 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by rotarenvy
I was merely pointing out the length changes. it makes little difference where you measure this total or change in centres.
I think it makes a big difference where you measure the total change. From my understanding, the difference bewtween the center of the main fulcrum and the center of the fulcrum in the plastic cup at the bottom is the measurement that makes the difference (in the lower portion of the shifter. It is much more than 5 mm. The plastic cup is just a bushing and being 5mm lower than the stock piece makes no difference.
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Old Mar 17, 2006 | 05:59 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by avakiannl
I think it makes a big difference where you measure the total change. From my understanding, the difference bewtween the center of the main fulcrum and the center of the fulcrum in the plastic cup at the bottom is the measurement that makes the difference (in the lower portion of the shifter. It is much more than 5 mm. The plastic cup is just a bushing and being 5mm lower than the stock piece makes no difference.

here is a pic to help you out and to clarify what I was getting at.



a 10mm change will always be a 10mm change.
ie measure from the end of the ball 30 std - 40 overall =10mm change
measure from the centres of the ball 25 std - 35 overall =10mm change

well since by the looks the std ball isn't quite at the bottom of the plastic brush I might concede that this isn't exactly true but I did indicate "~" aproximatly. there's paralax error and other factors that made my measurments very rough gestimates assuming the green board is a std 1cm hobby matt. don't worry yourself any more I know what I'm doing. it's not like I have these in front of me to measure.
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Old Mar 17, 2006 | 09:10 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by rotarenvy
a 10mm change will always be a 10mm change.
ie measure from the end of the ball 30 std - 40 overall =10mm change
measure from the centres of the ball 25 std - 35 overall =10mm change
Thanks for the drawing, now I get what you mean.
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