Just curious if anyone knows if the APV could cause Idle hunting? I took her for a drive yesterday and stalled out at a light. After just 2 attempts to restart her, the batt was dead. I know that have absolutely nothing to do with each other, but I noticed a small crack in the APV at the little nipple that sticks out when I was installing my new OMP. Since it is just a motor, I didn't pay much attention to it. Anyway, the other option I am looking at is the Alt. I have another one but I wasn't 100% if it could cause idle hunting or not.

 

If the crack is exposing the vacuum to ambient air, then that is a vacuum leak and can cause idle hunting. It won't affect starting, however it could stall the engine in a condition that produces a flood, which then prevents a start.

Not saying that this is what happened, just that it is a plausible chain of events.

 

Have you checked your neutral switch and ingector wiring or fuel trims.

Injector wiring is a very common mistake, that will show up as high fuel trims.

 

I am pretty sure the injector wiring is good considering it idles fine until it is warmed up. Since I can start it without issue and the idle doesn't change with the clutch in, I am fairly certain the neutral switch is not causing it either. The only thing I can't verify is the FT. Do either of you know if the long and short FT's are unlocked using the Torque pro version? The free version only gives me one and it starts to display after the car is warm. I am not sure which one it is or what values I am looking for on them either.

 

The fact it idles good until its warm is exactly why i say it is injectors. The car runs runs in open loop until warm. When its going closed loop. At that time it starts using fuel trims and trying to adjust the fuel to 14.7 ish.

You need both short and long but if you reset the ecu then short will tell you enough.

Look up my thread. Why do i have such high negative fuel trim. It doesn't take half a hour to check the neutraland reverse switch.

And im out until you at least check one of them.

 

Didn't get a chance to check them after work today. This cold has got me all kinds of worn out. I will be on it tomorrow for the morning. Got some x-mas shopping to finish up in the pm. I will take a look at your thread. I think I found it before and read through it but it was when all this first happened so I don't remember.

 

I will double check them, but I actually printed out a sheet for my injector wiring to make sure I plugged them in correctly when I rebuilt it. Not to say that I might have swapped 2 of them. I will know more tomorrow. I wil double check the neutral switch tomorrow as well.

 

Alright, so I unhooked the MAF and it idled great. You may be on to something with the injector thing.

 

Yes, the full version of torque will give you access to both fuel trims. For $5, it's cheaper than any other scan tool or diagnostics fee. Easily worth it.

 

Thats exactly what mine was doing. With the maf unhooked it can not run closed loop.

 

Sorry I haven't been active on this. Money was a little tight over the holidays. I have the intake off but the weather has been a little rough so I haven't been able to really look at the wiring. I did get a donor motor with low compression for a good price, so I will be able to trade out parts if needed and sell some of the others that I am not going to use like the OMP and such. I will get an update when the weather permits me to work a little more.

 

Holy crap! I had the primarys switched! It is running fan-freak'n-tastic now. No problems at all! Thanks for all the help guys! Now it's time to start getting the paint prepped and I need a couple airbags. Break-in shall now commence, lol!

 

So what are you going to do with the low compression core?

 

I am in the process of disassembling it atm. I want to make sure the parts are still usable. I have been burns before on a core and I don't want anyone to have to go through that. I will be taking pics and posting them in a new thread under the for sell section. If there is something you are looking for, I'll give you first dibs.

 

Just curious if anyone has tried replacing the primary yellows with reds? The only reason I ask is that I felt like I had more power when the 2 were switched. I have 2 extra sets of reds and I was considering switch them out. Good or Bad Idea?

 

Primarys are red then secondary and p2 are yellow.

The yellows flow more than the reds. It would probably make no differance at all since you have more then enough fuel stock, but it could very likely run lean and loose power or loose the engine.

 

I guess I had it backwards again. What it I traded out the reds for yellows?

 

If the core is good you might want to talk with Kevin at Rotary Resurrection, he is always looking for good cores. If the core is shot, I would be willing to take a rotor and housing.

 

Yeah, I have bought a few things for Kevin before. I was going to hit him up to see if he wanted any of the parts I got. Problem I am having with the core is that the guy I bought it from took off the flywheel before I got it, so I can't get the front ESS bolt off. The ESS has some rust at the end so I am going to just scrap it but it looks like the housings and Irons are good and it spins freely. I just don't want to assume it is good and sell it to someone if there is rust in the rear chamber from the rear seal not being closed off.

 

Do you mean you can't remove the bolt retaining the Eccentric shaft sensor,or the bolt in the center of the Eccentric shaft ? Try a rattle gun or, if you have a counter weight ,install that but not torque it up, then use a long bolt in one of the flywheel bolt holes that will catch on a rib on the rear end plate.

 

It can be done. It should not be without a tune change, but the difference is small enough that na your car should be able to compensate for it.

It still would not provide more power. It would probably cost power if anything due to overfueling.

 

If you are going to scrap it I will take one rotor and one housing.

 

I will let you know if they are usable. I am going to try using a vise to hold the Shaft in place while I loosen the bolt. but I have to get a new vise first, lol. Mine locked up.

 

I have a counter weight, but it is the front one, so it won't fit on the rear. I sold my compressor, so I would have to borrow one to try the impact. I think I might either try a vise or just take it up to a shop an have them get it for me.

 

Vice= bad idea on something that tight that it precision machined for balance