so after putting my engine back in my 8 i noticed i broke the plastice brake booster vaccume tube from the upper intake manifold that connects to the brake booster hose (see pics below). i see i can buy the tube seperate but has anyone replaced it or am i fked and have to buy a new manifold?

thanks to rotory res whom i stole this pic from

 

Is it possible to fix it with some epoxy? Its not like its holding anything heavy or under a great amount of pressure.

 

i could but i rather not. the only thing that concerns me about doing that is with the heat of the engine it might not hold very well and come apart during driving and then i have no brake boost.

 

There are products such as J-B weld that are designed to withstand high temps. The item is made of plastic so its not going to get as hot as the exhaust manifold. This could buy some some time to contact forum vendor Mazmart for a replacement section of the intake.

 

yea jb weld would work but im not tryin to fix it i want to replace it due to this will be in some car shows cant hack it lond story short i got it out this weekend.

i figured if they sell the tube separate then it has to some out. so i took the intake off and fliped it then took a flat blade screwdriver and hammered it out and it just poped out. so. long story short dont brake it in the first place and if you do just do what i did.

 

I haven't replaced in on the intake mani, but I did have to replace the same bends on the accordion tube. It was easy as pie, but I don't know how different the ones on the UIM would be.

 

Sorry, opened the thread then ate something, then replied, didn't see your post there, glad you got it.

 

yea no need to be srry i had to replace those to when i first tore apart the engine it was snowing outside and when i pulled the car into my shop it was still cold. so i pull the line off of the oil filler pipe to the intake boot and the tube broke off there. i ended up replacing it also this weekend. if that tube was easy, then if ur brake booster tube goes its just as easy. thanks for ur info also

 

I see that this is old, but I just ran into this problem today. When trying to remove the brake booster hose from the manifold, the plastic part circled above partially broke off. Seems to be the same thing that happened to you, but I cannot tell from your post or anything else on the www what can actually be done to fix the problem...but it would seem you fixed it.
What does "took the intake off and fliped it then took a flat blade screwdriver and hammered it out and it just poped out" mean? It does look like that little part would come out, but mine is not cooperating. It's basically a nub now after attacking from various angles once I got the manifold removed, and it won't "pop" out. What part did you replace it with if it popped out? Did you just rig it with some type of vacuum hose union? Trying to save several hundred bucks here. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks.

 

i would tackle it with some jb weld..


beers

 

How long does a weld like that take to do? Any tips to look out for? I don't know a thing about welding.

I'm asking because I have another part that requires welding.

 

it is a two part epoxy that sticks to almost anything.. and is very strong. requires no skill.

beers

 

JB is out of the picture having mangled the tip trying to "pop" it out. Looking at tapping with a brass fitting and sealing with silicon (14 psi max from what I could find), but am in the middle of a parts/tools acquisition nightmare.
Ideally, I'd just buy a new UIM. Turns out the UIM for my Series I is roughly 3x more expensive than the Series 2, though. Not sure what is up with that. Anybody know if the parts are actually the same? Clearly, there are many differences between the two series, but I am not knowledgeable enough to know which ones may dictate a difference in the UIM.
Any help could save lots of cash and also grant the peace of mind knowing my own jury-rig is not the only thing between me and not being able to get my vehicle stopped in a normal manner...

 

Turns out the UIM is different between Series I and Series II. Sorry I do not have more details than that. I took the word of those who work on both. Decided to bite the bullet and buy the more expensive Series I UIM today. Also slapped a coolant bottle and air filter on the order to take care of while I am at it. Big thanks to Shawn and staff at Jim Ellis Mazda Parts in ATL for helping me out! Separately ordered 3 Dorman solenoids from CarID to fix the original problem that caused all this (broke the brake booster connection while removing the UIM to access the SSV solenoid).
Lessons learned:
1) Series I and II UIMs are different. Sorry I do not have more detail than that.
2) The brake booster connection to the UIM, circled above, in spite of how it looks, is NOT an independently serviceable part. I found one place where it looked like someone tapped into the manifold with a metal elbow (actually my jury-rig plan, too), but this was on a manifold for sale in a used parts place - not exactly confidence-inducing.
3) Buying Dorman valve solenoids can save over $200 versus OEM solenoids (which are Mitsubishi parts that are found in other vehicles also, as noted elsewhere) when buying all three.
4) In some cases, Series I parts are more expensive than Series II. For example, I bought the Series II coolant bottle (aka expansion tank) because it will work on mine and is $50 cheaper than the Series I. This would appear to be because Mazda wants to gouge people wherever possible.
5) It is extremely difficult to find a tap wrench to utilize an NPT 1/4" or larger tap. Found a straight one (why?) when I called Grainger, but no luck whatsoever other than that. Looked like other folks just tried to use a ratchet with an 8 or 12 point socket, or lockable pliers. Maybe a plumber would know where to find one, but even the internet was fairly useless in this search.

Best wishes to anyone else who encounters this problem.

 

s1 and S2 UIM of course are different
2. a lot of people did that, but if its me I just buy a new one(or a good used one), then when inserting new tube in place, I will grease the part up so it does not break next time.
3. depends on where u get the solenoid, I can get them fairly cheap. I tried Dorman as well, good thing about it is it carries lifetime warranty, they work ok as solenoid.
4. Mazda randomly price their stuff, sometimes it doesn't even make sense.
5. Dunno about this.