Electromagnet83

So, I've done quite a bit of work on my 8 since I got it. Most of which has been stuff that could be done by simply reaching under the car or jacking it up, removing a wheel, and reaching into the wheel well. Basically I've changed lights, replaced wheel hub assemblies, spark plugs, ignition coils, etc. Now, in a continuing effort to clean up the poor maintenance of the previous owner, I am looking at replacing the exhaust system. I have plenty of tech know-how and don't doubt that , especially with the help of my mechanic friend, I can get the job done. However.....

Even though I have the car backed up on to solid ramps with stoppers in front of the front wheels, wood blocks in front of the back wheels (preventing from rolling down the ramps), parking break up and car in gear, and my jackstands there in case of a fall I'm terrified of being under the car. I get up under there for a second and just looking at that undercarriage and knowing the weight of it I feel like I am literally staring at my death.

Does anyone have any tips or advice for getting over this fear? It's preventing me from getting the work done.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Moving this to Tech. DIY is for when you have a set of instructions to post.



Jack stands can easily support the weight of the car. A single 2 ton jack is 4,000lbs, and our car only weighs 3,000 (give or take, depending on trim and mods). A pair of them and you are putting 1,500 on each, less than half the rated capacity, if you had the whole car on them. With the rear tires on ramps or the ground, you are only putting about 750lbs of the rated 4,000 max on each jack stand.

The only worry could be if you have it on their securely. If it's teetering, the jacks aren't level, or you have the jacks against a point that could completely slip free, then yeah, you could end up with problems when you start hauling away on a long breaker bar.

If you are really concerned, take some pics and we can let you know if there is something amiss.

Electromagnet83

Thanks. I will get some pics. I'm fairly confident I have everything set up on there properly though. I will gather some photos so someone else can be the judge of it.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

If you are going to be removing the cat as well, and it never has been, and/or the bolts are extremely rusty, then you can save yourself a ton of trouble by going to an auto-parts store, buying a set of new exhaust bolts (M10 x 1.25 I believe), taking the car to a corner shop, having them put it on a lift and remove the existing bolts, replacing it with yours. Usually $20 or so since it's really easy with plenty of room, long breaker bars, and blowtorches. Take the car home, put it up on stands/ramps and the bolts are simple to remove.

deadphoenix52

rule #1: once you get a car up in the air, ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS try to knock it off. kick it. shake it. throw your body weight into it. if its going to fall, its going to fall then, while youre not under it.

Electromagnet83

Here are a few pictures

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Yup, you are fine there. I wouldn't bother with the stands in front of the ramps though, since the weight of the car sitting on the ramps is fine, and with the e-brake engaged, it will hold the car there. Front chock should be wedged against the wheel, doesn't appear to be. Lifting the rear up off the ramp with the stand is a bit redundant though.

Still, if it makes you feel more comfortable, then go ahead and leave it.

Electromagnet83

The front chocks actually are wedged it just looks weird in the pic. The stands in the back aren't holding up the car they are slightly under the frame. I just put them there for fear that the actual ramps will collapse lol. Told you, I'm paranoid.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

It's ok to treat the weight of the car with respect. My modding thread includes a tool section and listing the jack stands I have a series of news articles of stories where cars fell on the person working on them, killing them. In every case, only a jack was used, no jack stand. Jack stands can and will save your life, and having a healthy respect to make sure you are safe is not a bad thing at all.

Just don't let the paranoia keep you from getting under the car at all. That would just be a shame

Electromagnet83

Thanks, I think this has given me the confidence. I'm running up to grab some tranny fluid and a socket for my breaker bar that will fit the exhaust clamp bolts.

Jims5543

iTrader: (1)

I was not expecting ramps AND jack stands. I will NEVER make fun of someone for wanting to be extra safe.

Whenever I jack my car, I always put jack stands under it, in addition to that I always leave the jack in place and if I am taking off a tire or tires they get laid flat and pushed under the car as well.

In my years on forums I know of 2 members that have died from cars falling on them. No thanks, I want to die IN the car not under it.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

14mm and 17mm are the two you need. The rear cat bolts will need a deepwell 14mm, a shallow/normal 14mm socket won't reach the nut.

Electromagnet83

I'm trying to pull the mid-pipe off. I got both of the bolts on the muffler/midpipe clamp off and have got one of the bolts that hold the midpipe to the cat converter off. The other one I can't figure out how to get off because I can't get a socket up in there due to the pieces that mount the midpipe to the chassis. I guess I need to remove this mount? Anyone know how to do that?

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

See post #4 in this thread

I can fit a wrench on the end of each without issue. The rears with the spring are a bit more irritating due to the tension the spring will hold on them nearly the whole length of the bolt.

Emery_

iTrader: (8)

That is one safe looking set up you have there. No reason you should be worried really!

There are some detailed DIY for the cat removal, and the springs in the rear are a bit of a pain, I had to use a power tool to remove them.

Electromagnet83

AGHHHHHHHHHHHHHH @#$@#$%%. I got the two bolts on the muffler clamp/midpipe off and was able to get one of the two bolts connecting the midpipe to the cat off. I have spent the last 2 hours trying to get that one bolts off. It is not a problem with the bolt itself it is the way everything is designed under there. I cannot get a socket wrench onto the bolt itself because the mount that connects to the chassis is in the way. I will post a pic tomorrow. I'm done for the night. I've sweared out enough words for a week.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

There are 5 bolts total.

3 from the header to the cat/midpipe. These OEM bolts are splined so that you can not rotate the bolts. You can only rotate the nuts. Once the nuts are free, take a hammer/mallet to the side the nut was on and pound it straight out like a nail.

2 from the cat/midpipe to the catback. These are actually studs that should be welded on the cat side, or threaded if it's a midpipe. Then a middle section of no threads where the spring sits, then the nut. Turning off the nut slowly relaxes the spring until the nut is free, then remove the springs.

All 5 are reachable without any issue with a standard 14mm wrench or 17mm wrench (depending on which you are working on). The only way access would be a problem is if you have over-sized or bulky tools, or too many extensions, etc...

If you haven't removed the 2 chassis cross braces underneath the cat/midpipe yet, then do that. 12mm bolts, 8 total, though you only need to loosen 1 side, not remove, as the braces on 1 side are slots that you can slide off of the bolt.

SayNoToPistons

iTrader: (8)

A few years ago I had paranoia involving going under also. I grew out of it eventually with jackstands. Until recently when a member on RX7Club passed when his FD fell on him even though it was on jackstands.

This weekend I had my 8 up on four jackstands because I was doing my motor mounts and midpipe. The paranoia came back today and I decided to wedge all my wheels under the car to do my midpipe.

Unfortunately, I wasn't as successful as you. When it came time to remove my factory midpipe, I was screwed. Had tiny a bit of leverage with my 27" breaker bar. Soaked all nuts with PB blaster over the weekend multiple times. Well, after breaking two socket adapters and a whole lot of cursing. I was unsuccessful at removing even one nut.

I'll be trying the torch tomorrow. Any suggestions are welcomed.


edit: BTW, all five nuts on my midpipe are 14mm.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

SNTP, check post #4 in this thread. I spent several cold hours under my car in December a couple years ago trying to get my cat free. Then I threw in the towel and grabbed a bunch of new bolts/nuts, drove down to a corner repair shop, paid the guy $20 to remove the bolts to the header, put my new bolts in, drove home, and had the midpipe out 15 minutes later.

It's REALLY worth the cash....


And I'd guess that it probably wasn't jack stand failure, but the FD was rocked off the jackstands.

SayNoToPistons

iTrader: (8)

Since it's still up on stands, I might as well make a final attempt. If the torch and corded impact (borrowed from my friend) won't work tomorrow, I definitely need to take it to a shop. I've also thought about cutting the damn bolts out myself.

Not exactly sure on what happened, but I believe that was the case. Hence the the reason I rock the car on stands hard prior to going under.

neit_jnf

+1

I always do this

Electromagnet83

That may be my problem. The only 17mm socket I have is one I just bought for the breaker bar using a 1/2" drive. It is pretty bulky and hard to work with. Tomorrow I'm going to run up and buy a 17mm 3/4" drive socket and give that a shot. If not, I'll follow post 4 and just run up and have someone else do it.

SayNoToPistons

iTrader: (8)

Where are you guys finding this "17mm" bolt/nut? All five on my flanges are 14mm.

Electromagnet83

So here is what I'm dealing with. This is the best pic I could upload. It is a view of the last remaining stud connecting the midpipe and catalytic converter. Hopefully from this you can see that the nut on the stud is in such a position that it seems impossible to get any type of socket around. I have tried extensions, no extensions, deep sockets, regular sockets. The best I could do was get the socket by itself about 3/4 the way on there sort of in a tilted fashion...but then I couldn't connect the drive to it. I'm at a loss as to how to remove this.

xexok

Either hold that side with a wrench and turn the other side or get a wobble socket and an extension and it should work fine. I forget exactly what I had to do for mine but I do not remember using an extension, but one may help.