How do I remove the 2 catalytic converter rear studs/bolts?
12-23-2010, 06:10 PM
#1
How do I remove the 2 catalytic converter rear studs/bolts?
I can't seem to remove the 2 rear studs/bolts (that connect the cat to the muffler pipe).
I was able to remove the nuts at one end in order to remove the catalytic converter from the car, so that's not the problem. My problem is I can't remove the stud from the rear flange of the cat. I understand the nut on the flange is welded on, so you can't remove that nut (unless you break the weld). I'm trying to re-use the studs for my replacement cat.
It seems you need a 13 mm wrench, which is borderline too loose and seems like it's going to strip the damn thing. I used PB Blaster and it still won't budge.
How in the world do you get a good grip on the stud to try to unscrew it?
I was able to remove the nuts at one end in order to remove the catalytic converter from the car, so that's not the problem. My problem is I can't remove the stud from the rear flange of the cat. I understand the nut on the flange is welded on, so you can't remove that nut (unless you break the weld). I'm trying to re-use the studs for my replacement cat.
It seems you need a 13 mm wrench, which is borderline too loose and seems like it's going to strip the damn thing. I used PB Blaster and it still won't budge.
How in the world do you get a good grip on the stud to try to unscrew it?
12-23-2010, 06:13 PM
#2
Filth in a world of Clean
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You need a deep socket 12mm wrench, if you are trying to get the two spring nut assemblies out, and one of the studs should come with it. Did you already remove these nuts?
Last edited by Dirt_Nasty; 12-23-2010 at 06:21 PM.
12-23-2010, 08:01 PM
#4
Ok, figured it out! 13 mm is borderline too big and will strip the damn thing. Dirt_Nasty mentioned a 12 mm BUT that is too small.
The correct size is a deep 1/2" socket. It fits perfect and snug. I was able to remove the rear studs! I used a long torque wrench with the socket to get more leverage.
I have no idea why everything else is in metric system except for the rear cat studs. Ridiculous.
I hope this will help others in the future.
The correct size is a deep 1/2" socket. It fits perfect and snug. I was able to remove the rear studs! I used a long torque wrench with the socket to get more leverage.
I have no idea why everything else is in metric system except for the rear cat studs. Ridiculous.
I hope this will help others in the future.
Last edited by ArXate; 12-23-2010 at 08:03 PM.
12-23-2010, 08:06 PM
#7
But I tried a couple of different 13mm open end and box end wrenches. They were a bit loose and started stripping the nut. Maybe you might get away with a 13mm in some other applications but I'm telling you, they will not work for this. Unless multiple manufacturers produced the same defect in 13mm , I believe that 1/2" is very slightly smaller. The 1/2" fit perfect with absolutely no give.
12-23-2010, 08:18 PM
#8
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Depending on the manufacturer some wrenches/sockets have more tolerance than others. We have some German made wrenches (for wrenching on HPLCs) at work that JUST fit the sized nut they are designed for. We also have some french made wrenches that are MUCH looser. (insert Franco-german sexual innuendo here)
01-01-2011, 02:20 PM
#9
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/in...ion-d_751.html
Not quite. 1/2" = 12.7mm
Check chart from above site address. Size matters.
01-01-2011, 10:33 PM
#11
I got mine out pretty easy. I forgot it was a 12 or 13mm. it should be 13mm.
mind if I ask what brand of socket you're using? cuz el cheapos tha sells for 99 cents usually are a bit "off"
I tried both Craftsman and Duralast(Autozone) and both works fine. the el cheapo I got from my father just slips.
mind if I ask what brand of socket you're using? cuz el cheapos tha sells for 99 cents usually are a bit "off"
I tried both Craftsman and Duralast(Autozone) and both works fine. the el cheapo I got from my father just slips.
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