Originally Posted by Brettus
(Post 3089751)
:spank:
Back to the video editing.... You were the first one to catch that! |
Brettus- Thanks for catching my dumb-ass mistake.
I'm uploading the corrected video now. |
thanks for the info
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Jon316G,
Thanks for the info Mate!!!... I don't want to unhook my VFAD.....just yet, .....BUT ......you have given me an idea.... I want your opinion on this... You may not know this but Mazda in their wisdom????, No longer supply Vacuum nipples for each separate Rotor on the intake side ports, you know this is where dealers and Series I owners can Seafoam from...well what do 09 (Series II ) Owners Do???.. Is there any reason IYO why I could not use this Vacuum Nipple behind the Throttle Body?, the same one used for the VFAD.. I am thinking I could disconnect it and link in a temporary vacuum hose if I want to de-carb my Rotary??? What do you think Jon...will it work...where is RG when you want him...;) |
Good thinking ASH... but there is one problem with that.
When you crank start the engine to decarb (ESS disconnected) the SSV and APV valves are closed. As you know, the primary runners (which are always open) is at the "top" of the lower intake manifold. So even if you pulled Seafoam into the intake from the VFAD nipple, wouldn't most of the fluid just run into the secondary and axillary runners? And with the SSV and APV valves closed, nothing gets into the engine. But you do raise a good question, what do the '09s do to decarb. I'll have to think about this for a minute... |
I am thinking of cleaning without the ESS disconnected, even thinking of doing the "water" steam Cleaning method???...Thoughts..
I really like the idea and principal of steam cleaning carbon off, as the method should remove built up carbon in very fine particles...almost in reverse to the original build up?? |
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What about using the jet-air nozzle to spray the decarb into the engine?
Attachment 144716 |
Did not think of that Jon, what is it that attachés there "Jet Air" ??, I just want to check my parts info and see if 09's have it,...I guess they do?
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Its one of the three hoses on the intake's flexible tube:
Attachment 144717 |
Is that the Air Valve Actuator pipe for Emissions?
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If it is the 09's use some of those Vacuum pipes but the AVA has changed and is 09 specific?
But it looks like it still connects in that area, parts info does not show that angle of diagram |
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Originally Posted by ASH8
(Post 3198550)
Is that the Air Valve Actuator pipe for Emissions?
Through the opening in the pic above (which usually has a hose attached), it comes out of the two nozzles on the other side of the manifold: Attachment 144718 |
Looks like that would do the job Ok Jon..?
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I think so.
And what is nice is that you get both rotors at the same time unlike doing it through the maintenance ports where you have to do it one side at a time. |
If I use the water or Seafoam method would the car still run OK with that Vac line temp disconnected??, at about 2000 RPM
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Well... when you decarb, you don't want the car to start.
Remember, you spray the decarb fluid while cranking for 10 seconds. Then you let it sit for an hour before starting the car. This is why you disconnect the ESS. Refresher... starting on page 7 of this TSP: http://www.finishlineperformance.com...5-08-1883f.pdf |
I capped mine near the removed VFAD actuator Jon just to keep out dirt in the unlikely case it's ever returned to stock. I didn't bother capping anywhere else and all is well.
Originally Posted by Jon316G
(Post 3087789)
You don't NEED to because you already bled the vacuum out of the actuator.
But capping it (on the actuator side) isn't going to do anything useful since you won't generate vacuum with the hose uncapped. |
Originally Posted by Huey52
(Post 3198645)
I capped mine near the removed VFAD actuator Jon just to keep out dirt in the unlikely case it's ever returned to stock.
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Should I still cap the intake side for any reason? Again, I've not had a problem.
btw: although your video now more properly cites inches of mercury vacuum, air pressure is still the motive force. We're not talking Stargate Zero Point Modules here. ;) |
Originally Posted by Huey52
(Post 3198649)
Should I still cap the intake side for any reason? Again, I've not had a problem.
Many users who installed aftermarkets intakes and forgot this step reported having issues since you introduced a vacuum leak into the intake. |
Originally Posted by Huey52
(Post 3198649)
btw: although your video now more properly cites inches of mercury vacuum, air pressure is still the motive force.
Just proves nobody is perfect ;) |
Oh, I would never leave nipples 'exposed.' ;)
When I removed my VFAD I left all the vacuum piping in place and capped the end at the [former] VFAD actuator just to keep the line clean. This way I could simply remove the RB Duct, reinstall the VFAD and hook up the actuator line to get back to stock. Note that I have my RB duct mated to my stock airbox.
Originally Posted by Jon316G
(Post 3198651)
So the nipple behind your TB is "exposed"?
Many users who installed aftermarkets intakes and forgot this step reported having issues since you introduced a vacuum leak into the intake. |
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so is that all? because i donno if the vfad is really open.
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Just cap that nipple under the intake mainfold and you're done, Finish, DEAL !
no more questions. |
Ok guys I got a cool video. Should I upload it to youtube then post it here? keep in mind I cant do this till I get home douh! lol
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