http://smrmicro.com/rx8servicemanual/

Found this on this thread : https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...ht=shop+manual

go to #3 engine specs and do a search for compression and it gives a chart and specs.

Nice find, thank you.

No problem, one good deed deserves another...besides those foot well LEDs I got from you rock!

any updates?

I'm going after work to get the compression tester.

Normal Compression is 120psi @ 250rpm
Minimum Compression is 98.6psi @ 250rpm

Well, I just went to lunch and had some problems with my car. The CEL came on as soon as I pulled out of the parking lot. After the car warmed up it would stall as soon as I came to a stop. Now it won't idle.

can you pull the code?
get that badboy towed to Mazda; new engine here you come! :)

I don't have a code scanner.

Reset the ESS profile with the 20 brake pedal stomp thing.

I just got back from the mini mart. It idled fine and the code cleared itself when I got back to the parking lot.

your car is posessed

^lol

Good luck with the compression test.

Maybe your car is telling you to leave it alone...hmmm..you haven't named her Christine, have you?

I don't know how i'm suppose to do the test.

Can someone make sense of the videos and tell me if i'm doing it wrong?

http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u...h_DSCF0356.jpg


http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u...h_DSCF0357.jpg


http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u...h_DSCF0358.jpg

Quote : CHR - Remove the valve core from the tester so the needle bounces as the compression strokes pass by. Note where the needle stops each time and determine the numerical value later. Make sure to disconnect the e-shaft sensor, first, and remember using an analogue gauge is only a general idea of the compression values. Don't forget to crank the engine at WOT.


If you are doing this and everything is right, and I'm no expert in any way, but I would say that yours is low. That first one seems to meet min standards but the other two vids, seem to fall short of mins. But I would wait for a better, more experienced answer from CHR or someone like that.

oh god, Rodger, I think my car might follow yours pretty soon >.<

Can anyone tell me if I did the compression test correctly?

I had the exact same problem, lack of power below 5K. Came in to the dealer, dealer diagnosed low compression. I'm getting a new engine. Noticed the problem around 62-65K, diagnosed at 68K, car in the shop now. I had newish plugs at the time (put in at 55K) and new coils. Cat checked out OK at 62K and was still in great shape at 69K.

I don't get on the car hard, so I didn't notice the "cold power", but I don't remember noticing the cold acceleration being any better than hot.

My car idles so-so (Due to engine mounts) and it ended up stalling on me once at a stop light (at about 68K). I have RB exhaust and RB duct, stock intake.

So given that I had the problem for some 6K-8K, if not more, the car did not die on me and was drivable until the minute I brought it to the dealer for the engine replacement.

Do you have a decent dealership in the area? Go for a compression check with a proper rotary compression tester. It should take less than an hour, more like half an hour. Worst case pay for 1HR of labor.

You can typically make a deal with the dealer: if the compression check comes back at spec, you pay 1 labor hr for the diagnostic. If it doesn't, then they can bill it to Mazda as warranty work and get you a new engine.

Take the schrader valve out of it! Local parts store should have a remover.

It didn't look like it was removable.

It screws out. Go to the parts store and ask them for the tool.

So how will removing the valve differ from holding the release button down?

I went and bought a scanner today.

Code: P0506 - Idle control RPM Lower than Expected

What does that mean?


btw, the cel is gone but the code is still stored.