HELP! car wont start again
02-22-2009, 01:02 PM
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HELP! car wont start again
About 2 months ago my car wouldnt start, i towed it to the shop and they replaced the spark plugs. yesterday my car wouldnt start again. Its been cold lately and I havent started my car in 3 days? its not the battery. Should I take out the spark plugs and clean them out?
02-23-2009, 12:58 PM
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Rotaries flood because the fuel/oil mixture that's injected during startup will crystalize inside the combustion chamber if it is not brought up to temperature. This causes the apex seals to pull back from the housing, giving you a loss of compression. This procedure will inject a slightly corrosive mixture of washer fluid to break the fuel/oil down and restore compression.
1. Locate the two vaccum ports on the passenger side of the intake manifold. They may or may not have plugs over them.
2. Look at the bottom of your washer fluid tank. Follow the line up to the rear, top, passenger side corner of the engine bay. There is a fitting in this area, and the line will simply pull off. You have to work it out of a couple other "brackets" but get the line so that it's completely free and only attached to the pump at the bottom of the tank.
3. Remove the fuel pump fuse. You can always just floor the accelerator during cranking, but that won't work with aftermarket EMS (learned that the hard way). Best to be sure.
4. Now take the washer fluid line and run it down to one of the vaccum ports on the intake manifold. Leave the cap (if there is one) on the other port. You might have to reroute the line carefully, but it will reach both ports. Washer fluid will begin to come out of the line due to our friend gravity, so move quickly or have a friend ready to perform the next step right away.
5. Crank the motor for 7-10 seconds, pressing the washer fluid button exactly twice. Repeat for the other rotor using the other vaccum port. If your friend presses the button at the wrong time and blasts you with washer fluid, you'll get to enjoy a nice buzz. Give poison control a call for fun too.
6. Put everything back together and replace the fuel pump fuse. Crank it again, without depressing the throttle and it should start. It will run like crap and smoke to holy heck. You'll have the work the throttle for a few minutes, but try and hold the RPM's at about 3,000 until the motor smooths out and has reached operating temperature. Then slowly let off the gas until you're at idle. If the motor dies before it reaches temperature, repeat the entire procedure.
This might take a few tries to get right, so it's good to have a working battery charger or jumper cables on hand since you're battery will die quickly. Don't waste time cranking it on a dead battery, as it will never fire.
1. Locate the two vaccum ports on the passenger side of the intake manifold. They may or may not have plugs over them.
2. Look at the bottom of your washer fluid tank. Follow the line up to the rear, top, passenger side corner of the engine bay. There is a fitting in this area, and the line will simply pull off. You have to work it out of a couple other "brackets" but get the line so that it's completely free and only attached to the pump at the bottom of the tank.
3. Remove the fuel pump fuse. You can always just floor the accelerator during cranking, but that won't work with aftermarket EMS (learned that the hard way). Best to be sure.
4. Now take the washer fluid line and run it down to one of the vaccum ports on the intake manifold. Leave the cap (if there is one) on the other port. You might have to reroute the line carefully, but it will reach both ports. Washer fluid will begin to come out of the line due to our friend gravity, so move quickly or have a friend ready to perform the next step right away.
5. Crank the motor for 7-10 seconds, pressing the washer fluid button exactly twice. Repeat for the other rotor using the other vaccum port. If your friend presses the button at the wrong time and blasts you with washer fluid, you'll get to enjoy a nice buzz. Give poison control a call for fun too.
6. Put everything back together and replace the fuel pump fuse. Crank it again, without depressing the throttle and it should start. It will run like crap and smoke to holy heck. You'll have the work the throttle for a few minutes, but try and hold the RPM's at about 3,000 until the motor smooths out and has reached operating temperature. Then slowly let off the gas until you're at idle. If the motor dies before it reaches temperature, repeat the entire procedure.
This might take a few tries to get right, so it's good to have a working battery charger or jumper cables on hand since you're battery will die quickly. Don't waste time cranking it on a dead battery, as it will never fire.
02-23-2009, 01:07 PM
#6
^ the washer fluid deflood works well. Can be done in 20 minutes.
The traditional way is to pull the plugs, clean them off, and crank the engine to push out the fuel through the spark plug ports.
The engine does fine in cold temps... I've started mine with no problems in -15F - you just have to allow it time to warm up, which at those temps, can take a couple (15-20) minutes.
The traditional way is to pull the plugs, clean them off, and crank the engine to push out the fuel through the spark plug ports.
The engine does fine in cold temps... I've started mine with no problems in -15F - you just have to allow it time to warm up, which at those temps, can take a couple (15-20) minutes.
02-23-2009, 02:12 PM
#7
I have a 100% success rate with the washer fluid trick WITHOUT needing to pull the fuel pump fuse.
But I see your concept was like following the "Zoom-Zoom" engine cleaner instructions.
I personally just gave it two "mist" squirts into each port (without cranking) and then started it.
But I don't see an issue with what you're doing either.
But I see your concept was like following the "Zoom-Zoom" engine cleaner instructions.
I personally just gave it two "mist" squirts into each port (without cranking) and then started it.
But I don't see an issue with what you're doing either.
02-23-2009, 05:47 PM
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thanks guys. also one more question. is there such thing as over cranking and ruining the starter? because i did the procedure where you have to crank with the pedal down over and over again
02-24-2009, 01:40 AM
#9
They say the longest you should crank is about 10 seconds. Then give the starter and battery a break.
I've cranked my '04 with a stock (not upgraded) stater for about 20 seconds before when it was so close to starting and deflooding...
But to answer your question - yeah, its bad to crank the starter for long periods of time. If you have an '04 and break it though, its possible to get an upgraded one under warranty (I think - not positive)
I've cranked my '04 with a stock (not upgraded) stater for about 20 seconds before when it was so close to starting and deflooding...
But to answer your question - yeah, its bad to crank the starter for long periods of time. If you have an '04 and break it though, its possible to get an upgraded one under warranty (I think - not positive)
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