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Getting my engine replaced.

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Old Jun 24, 2009 | 12:41 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Sleepy-z
Carbon build up is probably 80%+ of the reasons why the engines fail. If it lacked power or was hard to start....or even wouldn't start anymore and had low compression its more then likely carbon built up on the springs. Unless it was making a noise or had a coolant leak internal or just plain made a loud noise and shutoff its probably good old carbon in it. Change the oil often and follow everyones advice for the longest life, I would change it every 3k miles personally but thats just what I do on all my cars.
3k miles? I change my oil when I reach 4 miles. Do you think it is still adviseable to go for 4kmiles before changing the oil?
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Old Sep 25, 2009 | 08:24 PM
  #27  
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From: Easton PA
i got a free rental. talk to the service manager, and if no go, call mazda. GL
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Old Sep 25, 2009 | 08:50 PM
  #28  
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From: south florida
This is what you need 20w50
http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/VR-1_Racing_Motor_Oil.pdf

and this

http://www.pettitracing.com/rx8/index_maintenance.htm

Last edited by ferg; Sep 25, 2009 at 08:54 PM.
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Old Sep 25, 2009 | 09:02 PM
  #29  
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you gonna get jumped by all those 5w20 n00bs out there !
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Old Sep 25, 2009 | 09:07 PM
  #30  
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ohh Sh*t lol i better go drive my smooth engine and let them try to get their 5w20 to start lol
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Old Sep 25, 2009 | 09:11 PM
  #31  
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From: Planet Earth
Originally Posted by ferg
ohh Sh*t lol i better go drive my smooth engine and let them try to get their 5w20 to start lol
All those haters/n00bs like rxrocks are waiting for u around the corner ...
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Old Sep 27, 2009 | 05:25 AM
  #32  
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Agree with nycgps...Don't forget to pre-mix..
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Old Sep 27, 2009 | 10:40 AM
  #33  
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Dont want to thread jack but wouldnt having an aftermarket flywheel on void your warranty? What about aftermarket ignition wires or any aftermarket ignition setup for that matter?
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Old Sep 27, 2009 | 10:46 AM
  #34  
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From: south florida
i think a non oem intake would void to?
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Old Sep 27, 2009 | 11:00 AM
  #35  
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From: Northern Virginia
Originally Posted by nycgps
you gonna get jumped by all those 5w20 n00bs out there !
Fend them off with the attached, from the Australian owner's manual...seems timely enough to post it again.

But I'm still wondering, if most failures come from carbon deposits (see "red line every day" mantra), why the thinness or thickness of the oil should matter? And if it really is carbon, just how does pre-mixing - which adds more oil - help?

Enquiring minds want to know...

Ken
Attached Thumbnails Getting my engine replaced.-australia_om_oil.jpg  
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