Every time I bring my 39K mi '04 into the dealership garage, I bring a case of beer with me. I'm pretty glad too! After noticing a loss of power at low RPM I brought my car in... and they're replacing the engine free! I guess the factory extended the warranty and my shop is nice enough to me that they'll recommend and do the work. They're not sure if it's a seal or what so they're replacing the whole thing.

They're recommending I replace my not-very-old coils and spark plugs, plus maybe my clutch as they'd only charge me for parts. What are your thoughts? It seems like it'd be worthwhile to save the labour costs, though it could be $1100 all told.

I've never had an engine replacement for any car, this is new to me. Is there anything else you recommend I have them do at the same time? Anything I should ask them to look for? Any Mazdaspeed upgrades to consider adding since they have the engine out anyway? Should I baby it for a couple thousand miles like it was a new car?

Last, I think I'll ask them if I can have the old motor... is that allowed for them to do? It'd make a pretty cool end table.

I really appreciate your input, this is a big deal and I'm not sure how to proceed.

 

Why did you make two threads on the same subject?

 

All of the replacement engines are remanufactured, so they need your old engine for core parts for a future reman engine. So no, you won't be able to keep it.

 

Thanks for the tip about the engine. I made two threads because I mean for one to be about our local dealership. I mean for the other to be about the process of getting an engine replaced. That's why the content of the posts is somewhat different.

 

I have had mine replaced twice now.
I recommend the upgraded SSV valve and the upgraded motor mounts.

 

Why would you need a clutch with 39k miles? I get "just in case" but that's a lot of money to replace parts that are probably fine "just because".

 

You could try, but I think they will keep it to rebuild it again. If they gave it to you (maybe and good luck), I think it would be a pretty cool end table...lol

 

You can acquire the parts for well under that. The plugs and coils don't require much in the way of tools or mechanical ability to replace.
My clutch is fine with 80,000+ miles on it. The clutch will naturally turn blue and dealers will point to that as the clutch being burnt, while it is still fine.

 

Ok first of all you dont need to replace your clutch "just in case" Your clutch is fine for the life of the car depending on your driving style.

I would do the coils, plugs, wires. However, I would order them from ebay or mazmart. You can get oem mazda parts for 320$ delivered to your door. Install them yourself in 1 hour and you save 800$. You just need a 10mm socket wrench with extension. Of course you dont want a poor ignition on a new engine. I got mine replaced last month and had my spare parts. The day I got the car back I changed them. HUGE difference.

For your new engine make sure they dont reuse the same fuel line or at least make them secure it properly. Mine blew off and I stalled on the highway. Risk of fire and damage to the engine.

For the break in procedure follow the mazmart:
- first 1000km (600miles) dont go above 4000rpm, dont go WOT, dont cruise at the same speed.
-1000-1200km (725 miles) : max of 5000rpm, dont go WOT, vary your speed
-1200-1400km (850 miles): max of 6000rpm etc etc
-1400-1600km (975 miles): max of 7000rpm etc etc
-1600-1800km (1100miles) max of 8000rpm
-1800-2000km (1225 miles): max of 9000rpm

After that, drive it like you stole it. I lost patience at 1000 miles and went all out.

 

He may not need to replace the clutch, but it is inaccurate to say that the clutch is fine for the life of the car. It IS a wear item. You can not help but to put wear on it when starting from stopped, even if you never wear it any other time. Eventually, this will indeed leave too little friction material left.

 

Clutch is not a "life of the car" item, it can and it WILL wear out. like brake pads/rotors/etc.

 

Some people (me) last to 100k on one clutch. Some need a new clutch in 30k.

 

Well, I still had power issues and turns out there was a little plastic piece that converts one oil hose into four for the four compression chambers; and that plastic piece had a crack so it wasn't getting suction. Replace that, and suddenly I have power again. I wonder if the engine was a free waste.

 

unbelievable.

 

It would not surprise me but you would think the techs would have spotted a crack in the fuel rail insulator since it is common for it to crack.

 

i believe it. people just assume the engine is bad. then they don't bother looking at anything else.

 

Agreed. MOST people on here would point the OP towards checking these things before the oil hose(?)

• Spark Plugs
• Spark Plug wires
• Ignition Coils
• Catalytic Converter
• Compression (Test)
• PID List - MAF gm/sec, misfires, etc.
• Fuel pressure
• Vacuum leak

There's guessing, then there's diagnosing. Sounds like a bad case of the parts shotgun.


OP it was a vacuum leak from an oil injection hose? Or a cracked fuel rail insulator??
Confusing info here.

 

Here's what the piece was. Seems like I have most if not all of my power back.

 

i would say somebody messed up during the engine removal/install process