Exhaust install questions
#1
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Exhaust install questions
Hello guys!
I checked the DIY section and didn't see any posts on exhaust installs. While I know my way around a car to do basic maintanence, I have never done any "wrench" work under any of my cars. I want to get a exhaust for my 8 and I keep hearing how easy it is to do the install myself. My questions are:
1.) Does the car need to be lifted, or can I get by with driving the rear up on ramps?
2.) What tools are needed? I have sockets, wrenches, all the basics. But how about any "special" tools?
3.) What "trouble" areas should I look out for during the process?
4.) Lastly, when bolting/clamping everything together, should a torque wrench be used? Is there a danger of going too tight?
I'm probably going with the MazdaSpeed exhaust...it's closer to "stock" noise levels with a deeper and fuller note plus it has a Mazda factory warranty. I was going to go with the dealer route on ordering and installation, but if I can get it cheaper and do the work myself, why not, right?
Thanks for any info or suggestions! :D
Arvin
I checked the DIY section and didn't see any posts on exhaust installs. While I know my way around a car to do basic maintanence, I have never done any "wrench" work under any of my cars. I want to get a exhaust for my 8 and I keep hearing how easy it is to do the install myself. My questions are:
1.) Does the car need to be lifted, or can I get by with driving the rear up on ramps?
2.) What tools are needed? I have sockets, wrenches, all the basics. But how about any "special" tools?
3.) What "trouble" areas should I look out for during the process?
4.) Lastly, when bolting/clamping everything together, should a torque wrench be used? Is there a danger of going too tight?
I'm probably going with the MazdaSpeed exhaust...it's closer to "stock" noise levels with a deeper and fuller note plus it has a Mazda factory warranty. I was going to go with the dealer route on ordering and installation, but if I can get it cheaper and do the work myself, why not, right?
Thanks for any info or suggestions! :D
Arvin
#2
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Main problem is getting the exhaust off the rubber hangers. Racing Beat suggests inserting a small screwdriver into the hole, wedging it open and spraying WD40 to lubricate. It really makes a difference when trying to remove.
I've found rotating the hanger afterwards to spread the lubrication also helps. The stock exhaust has verticle metal plates next to the rubber hangers. Insert a large (18"+) screwdriver between the plate and hanger and use it as a lever to pry the hanger off.
Ramps or jack stands will give you enough clearance. Screwdriver and wrench are all you need for tools.
________
ZX14 VS HAYABUSA
I've found rotating the hanger afterwards to spread the lubrication also helps. The stock exhaust has verticle metal plates next to the rubber hangers. Insert a large (18"+) screwdriver between the plate and hanger and use it as a lever to pry the hanger off.
Ramps or jack stands will give you enough clearance. Screwdriver and wrench are all you need for tools.
________
ZX14 VS HAYABUSA
Last edited by PUR NRG; 05-01-2011 at 04:20 AM.
#3
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Dawn on the ends of the hangers works REALLY well also. Put some on your finger and rub it all the way around the "pointy" part of the hanger. Then, use the aforementioned screwdriver (and a little elbow grease) they'll come right off.
I have done two now, and can do it in the driveway (on ramps) in about 45 minutes. This is from putting the car on ramps to walking back in the house.
You won't have any problems - just remember the ground strap on the muffler..................
I have done two now, and can do it in the driveway (on ramps) in about 45 minutes. This is from putting the car on ramps to walking back in the house.
You won't have any problems - just remember the ground strap on the muffler..................
#4
make sure the ramps are secure. My boss helped me with mine, and he thought the car was FWD... boy did he get a shock when the ramps flew as I reversed onto them.
Lucky the end of the ramps had "bumps", preventing the car from rolling off them.
Lucky the end of the ramps had "bumps", preventing the car from rolling off them.
#5
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windex also works as a lube for the rubber hangers. don't know the rx8's design but a mallet might come in handy if tubes are pressed fit over one another. older cars would need a hand grinder or dremel for the corroded parts.
#6
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how did it go?
Hello guys!
I checked the DIY section and didn't see any posts on exhaust installs. While I know my way around a car to do basic maintanence, I have never done any "wrench" work under any of my cars. I want to get a exhaust for my 8 and I keep hearing how easy it is to do the install myself. My questions are:
1.) Does the car need to be lifted, or can I get by with driving the rear up on ramps?
2.) What tools are needed? I have sockets, wrenches, all the basics. But how about any "special" tools?
3.) What "trouble" areas should I look out for during the process?
4.) Lastly, when bolting/clamping everything together, should a torque wrench be used? Is there a danger of going too tight?
I'm probably going with the MazdaSpeed exhaust...it's closer to "stock" noise levels with a deeper and fuller note plus it has a Mazda factory warranty. I was going to go with the dealer route on ordering and installation, but if I can get it cheaper and do the work myself, why not, right?
Thanks for any info or suggestions! :D
Arvin
I checked the DIY section and didn't see any posts on exhaust installs. While I know my way around a car to do basic maintanence, I have never done any "wrench" work under any of my cars. I want to get a exhaust for my 8 and I keep hearing how easy it is to do the install myself. My questions are:
1.) Does the car need to be lifted, or can I get by with driving the rear up on ramps?
2.) What tools are needed? I have sockets, wrenches, all the basics. But how about any "special" tools?
3.) What "trouble" areas should I look out for during the process?
4.) Lastly, when bolting/clamping everything together, should a torque wrench be used? Is there a danger of going too tight?
I'm probably going with the MazdaSpeed exhaust...it's closer to "stock" noise levels with a deeper and fuller note plus it has a Mazda factory warranty. I was going to go with the dealer route on ordering and installation, but if I can get it cheaper and do the work myself, why not, right?
Thanks for any info or suggestions! :D
Arvin
#7
Extraordinary Engineering
Funny story...
I used WD-40 on the hangers
Some of it was burning off as I pulled into a drive-thru after the install.
They were looking for the fire in the McDees...
It only smoked for a little while
I used WD-40 on the hangers
Some of it was burning off as I pulled into a drive-thru after the install.
They were looking for the fire in the McDees...
It only smoked for a little while
#8
i just ordered my hks legamix catback exhaust a few mins ago and decided i'll check this tread out to see how hard it was going to be to install this exhaust and from what i read its no harder then installing an motor swap on a 90 accord cb7 from f22 non-vtec to h22 vtec so i think i should be able to handle it the only problem i was afraid of was if there was going to be any welding but i guess not since nobody mentioned it so i'm just paitenly waiting like a boy waiting for prom to end.
#9
Extraordinary Engineering
It's all bolt on...
If the replacement exhaust tips are bigger then stock you may have to remove the shrouds from the rear skirt to get it installed.... Those are also a PITA!
Last edited by DarkBrew; 11-17-2010 at 02:10 PM.
#11
Good luck.
#12
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You have to be careful of the springs that the stock exhaust has. When I put on my borla, it comes with a 1/4 inch metal place which makes it nearly impossible to put the springs back on without a C Clamp. After a while I got one spring down then just bolted down the other one. PB Blaster works GREAT for getting the hangers on and off!
I would also recommend getting a buddy. :-)
I would also recommend getting a buddy. :-)
#13
Extraordinary Engineering
No need to, I put a Race Beat with 4" tips on without removing the shrouds and did it in the drive way on jacks. Used silicon spray and was able to pry off the rubber hangers with my hands. Without some type of lube they are unremovable. The other hard part is separating the muffler from the pipe.
Good luck.
Good luck.
My car was on a hoist and we could not get my RB to slide in with both shrouds in place... ??
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