Bail-Dawg

I have several codes and any help or advice would be appreciated
codes:
C1290
P1300
P3302

My power steering has also stopped working and there is no code for it but the light is on.

Thanks

RX8Soldier

iTrader: (24)

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/rx-8-technical-info-cel-codes-pcm-pin-list-collision-guide-26291/

edit: are you sure those are the correct codes? the first one is for your ABS/TCS

I believe that the other 2 are posted wrong. They're probably misfire codes. (P0300/P0302)
Answer these questions:
-year of car
-miles
-auto/manual
-maintenance (spark plugs/ coils)

Bail-Dawg

Its an 04 mt with 92000 km
coils plugs and wires done 2500km ago
new battery

the abs light and traction control lights are on and the other codes come up as "boost calibration fault" and "refer to manual"
Misfire test comes back as 0 for both rotors

TheWulf

iTrader: (4)

Can you confirm your trouble codes?

If they were just done then I would recommend you check that the wires were put back in the correct order and that all connections are tight. They might have been done improperly or have the wrong plugs.

Where did you get it done / DIY?

For the ABS lights, try turnign the car on, turn the steering all the way to the left, then all the way to the right, then turn the car off and back on.

PS: www.OttawaMazda.ca

Bail-Dawg

codes are
C1290
P1300
P3302

Scanner is consistent with these

Had the plugs done at the local mazda dealer here in ottawa (banks street mazda) in May (2500km ago)

I tried turning the wheel left then right but it did nothing. The light i have for traction control is not the traction control off light as if the button was pressed but the car with skid marks light. Not sure if that makes a difference?

Any sugestions are greatly appreciated

TheWulf

iTrader: (4)

There's your problem
They're pretty much the worst possible choice in Ottawa. Your best bet is Elite Mazda in Gatineau -- I drive there from Kanata, that's how much better they are.

What part of Ottawa are you in? If you want to come out to Kanata I can have a look and re-scan it with my AccessPort.

Else, bring it to Elite, talk to Jean or Cliff in service and tell them Marc sent you.

Bail-Dawg

It was actually the previous owner who did the plugs, i only got the car about a month ago. The problems started just after that. I had heard some bad things about bank street mazda but figured there was no way they could have messed up a plug and coil change. Unfortunately i cant drive the car right now because i cant get it safetied with an abs llight. I had planned to get it towed into Kanata mazda if i cant fix it (im in Almonte).

Could an error in the plug install cause any of this?

TheWulf

iTrader: (4)

If the plugs are bad or installed incorrectly, it can definitely cause misfires, although it shouldn't impact power steering or traction control.

Pull the plugs and check them. Check the part numbers for leading and trailing. Make sure the wires are connected in the right order and do a spray test on them. Pull the coils, see if they're actually new or not. Old ones will have white spots on the back (heat marks).

I wouldn't spend the money on towing it, you can get a temporary permit and drive it around while you attempt to fix it (that's what I did when I got mine).

If your plugs are junk I have a set you can have for cheap. DO NOT BUY plugs/coils/wires FROM A DEALER! You'll pay 3-4x what they're worth. You can get new plugs for $80/set through vendors on rx8club, dealer will try to charge $200-$300. Same with coils.

PS: I live about 5 minutes from Kanata Mazda. I still drive to Elite

Bail-Dawg

i can only get 2 temp permits per year and i used one to get it home. i need to save the other to take it to get etested and safetied.

My scanner records no misfires in the memory and the plug coil job cost $1700. i would hope for that price that they would use quality products.
I dont realy have the knowlegde to be removing coils and stuff (dont want to make things worse)

The invoice says that the previous owner went in with code P0300 and P2004 and that they did the plugs/coils and repositioned the valve motor gear.
No codes after road test

Also when i bought it i had to get a new starter (i hear thats common) i had some crummy little service place do the install because they are the ones i bought it from and they did the starter included in the cars purchase price. Maybe they did something wrong/ damaged something?

TheWulf

iTrader: (4)

What the F... that's pretty much what I was telling you... don't do it! You can get all the parts for just over $300 here.

And your hopes are crushed, the OEM coils are pretty crappy. A lot of us get the BHR Ignition upgrade. A bit more expensive up front, but you'll probably never have to do coils again.

Yes the stater is a known problem as well. Good news is that's a pretty basic job so unless they unhooked something that they weren't supposed to (which is possible) that shouldn't happen.

Do you have an indoor place to work? All this stuff is extremely easy to do. Depending on what the weekend brings I may be able to come give you a hand.

Bail-Dawg

Lke i said the previous owner had it done, so his dime not mine
(is that more expensive than it should have been?)
The car is in a metal shed, Its cold but it is dry and out of the wind.
Its my first car so i dont want to do anything wrong but any help or tips if your busy are greatly appreciated

TheWulf

iTrader: (4)

Well at this point if you don't want to pull it all out and have a look there's not much else you can do.

Check the fuses and relays for the TCS and PS. Make sure all the electrical connections are plugged in and you have PS fluid at the right level. Next step will be to bring it in to have someone look at it.

Bail-Dawg

went out today and checked all of the fuses, pulling them out and putting them back in cleared up all of my codes except C1290 pressure transducer circuit failure and my power steering does not work.

So ABS issue for sure but still not sure how to fix it
I hear the ABS module is quite expensive to replace

DeViLbOi

iTrader: (1)

If you remove the airbox and look under the radiator overflow there is a connector that gets soaked when your car overheats. Im 99.9% sure that is the power steering connector. Cleaning it should get you fixed up there...once you are done tape it up or use some heat shrink on it.

Bail-Dawg

Ill try that later tonight. Thanks

Bail-Dawg

stupid question but how do you remove the airbox? I cant even get it open

TheWulf

iTrader: (4)

Pull. Hard.

Bail-Dawg

i just have to remove the 2 metal clips on the front right?
or do i need to remove the air hose to the engine too?

TheWulf

iTrader: (4)

The clips (2 on the front, 2 on the back) only expose the air filter. You don't need to take those off.

To remove the intake, stick your fingers underneath the front of the intake and pull up and away from you. Hard. It'll pop out, it's only held on by rubber grommets.

Bail-Dawg

thanks ill try that

Bail-Dawg

Wont move. Sounds like its cracking
too cold maybe?

DeViLbOi

iTrader: (1)

I wouldn't recommend trying to do it without removing the airhose and I would personally take the airbox apart to do it. If I remember correctly you need to pop the top two grommets first which require you to rock the box towards the engine and then it comes straight up.

Bail-Dawg

i cant rock the airbox at all (1/4 inch at the most) it doesnt move enough to come out of the rubber holes on the front. Would removing the air hose solve this problem? Its pretty stiff since its -15 out
any tips?

TheWulf

iTrader: (4)

You can disconnect the accordion hose, it might help.

RX8Soldier

iTrader: (24)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6I6_UnQELcw