ZOOM-I-DO

I know this is not new but wanted to share some pics and ask a question about filtering the other recirculating hoses on the Intake Flex Tube (accordion hose).
I have included a picture from the manual showing where these others go to but can not discern if they should be filtered as well.

Materials used: $35 worth from Home Depot
Husky Oil/Air separator - $12.00 EDIT - Threw out the Husky separator and replaced with KOBALT unit from LOWES. Much better materials and drain system.
2-90 degree elbows
2-3/8 barbs
3' of 3/8 fuel line
1/8" aluminum stock
4-hose clamps

Cut a piece of the aluminum stock to fit the mounting area of the Husky separator,
drilled mounting holes. Then fit the elbows and barbs using Teflon tape. Mounted filter to tab of Intake (MAKE SURE THE FLOW ARROW, DIRECTION IS CORRECT).
Fit lengths of hose to not kink and secure.



Use the unused tab on the Upper Intake Manifold in center of picture.



Finished product. It took about 2.5 feet of 3/8 Fuel line from Kragen Auto parts.



Here is picture of the Intake Air System hose routing diagram.
Can I get some feedback on whether the two other hoses in the picture should
be filtered with a catch can too?



Thanks

ZOOM-I-DO

Bump for a reply?

gregs

iTrader: (7)

Doug do you know if you have the latest TSB on your car? look at your maint. ports on the lower intake manifold are nipples blocked off? or is there a vacuum line looped to each other?

b'Eight'

How much psi is the crank case pushing and how much vacuum is the intake pulling? I guess I'm wondering what criteria you used to "size" your oil filter / separator. I like this idea. At least you didn't put steel wool in the bottom of the oil filter like some idiots do.

ZOOM-I-DO

Hey Greg, no I don't have the TSB for moding the Oil fill breather and lines down to the Intake maint. ports. Have the original 04' - 05' breather setup. I was just wondering (because I could not find out via searching) if the other two hoses on the CAI should be filtered as well? Could not tell via the hose map diagram, what/where they evacuate?

I don't know the PSI in the oil pan area (no crank) or the vacuum at the intake. I took the idea for the catch can from this thread. I did not size anything. Steel wool? oh to condensate on, then drip. I read another that used a lofa sponge as the condensing material. lol what ever works.

http://www.pbase.com/rsrock/oil_catch_can

He has had it on for years and it works well, so I thought I would try it.
I used this DIY because I can see inside it (whats in there?) Some of the expensive Catch cans
(like this one http://www.42draftdesigns.com/catego...catchcans.html)
have the oil screens on the out take and oil collects and drips down. But most you can not see how it is built inside or they do not tell you whats inside. Anyway we'll see how this works. Sure would like to know if the other two CAI hoses should be filtered?

Thanks for the reply guys. And I'll see you Greg at the Dyno Meet next month Haha!!

gregs

iTrader: (7)

in that case the way you mounted it is correct i wouldnt worry about the other lines, what you might want to do later is attach a breather/filter to the outlet of the oil separator (rite at the fitting) and just plug the nipple on the accordian intake tube. either way will work good for your purposes, nice job btw!

b'Eight'

The reason why you DON'T put steel wool or a sponge at the bottom of the oil separator is because it automatically catches & holds the oil by design. I used to sell those things when I used to work for a fluid power distributor selling Parker Hannifin products. They sent me to their Pneumatic's school.

The reason why I asked on sizing is because port size is a factor in determining what in-line oil separator to use and that is based on air flow.

ZOOM-I-DO

Ok, so how do you figure out what size/volume/capacity is needed for the separator/catch can. I assumed from the DIY I followed that because the engine it was used on was much bigger it should suffice. Your thoughts?

b'Eight'

I'll have to find an Parker Pneumatics catalog and check their cut sheets. They usually post specs. I'm sure what you have is fine for your application.

b'Eight'

Here is a link to Parker's catalog for pneumatic filters.

http://tinyurl.com/ParkerInlineFilters

Keep in mind you want a coalescing filter, i.e., oil separator (which is what you are using) instead of just a plain old water separator which is the usual purpose you use an in-line air filter to prevent water in the tank from going down stream and rusting tools. A lubricator actually puts oil in the air stream to lubricate (but you wouldn't want oil in a paint applications).

Most air applications do not see more than 120 psi with 90 psi being typical. There are high flow and standard flow applications with standard being what you would need. Port size will affect flow. Remember too that the higher the micron rating the more often you will have to change your filter (if that is even an issue).

Mazurfer

Isn't a whole heck of a lot of oil going to sit in that tube before it would even get to the catch can?
You sure you don't want to have that lower than where it comes out of the oil filler neck?

b'Eight'

That's my point, you have to have sufficient pressure coming from the crankcase / oil pan. The placement won't matter as much if you have sufficient amounts of pressure. I'm not so sure it's designed to work as a vacuum device.

By the way, Parker owns Watts which I see your oil separator is a Watts product (or maybe it's your fittings only).

ZOOM-I-DO

Thanks b8, I will take a look at it. And I am keeping an eye on it (filter) for cloging.

Thats a good point Mazurfer, but when I see installs of the more common type catch cans attached to the firewall in place of the water spray bottle. I didn't think it would be an issue? They are much higher than this install. If the oil/crap/condensation in the intake tube came from over filling I can see your point. I will take a look for a lower placement or modify the bracket.


The fittings are Watts. The filter is Husky. Probably made by another Mfg. and rebranded for Home Depot.

So if you have enough pressure/suction, than oil should not sit in the feeder tube before the filter?

Thanks for the input guys. I still want to find out what the other two tubes described in the diagram evacuate or supply vacuum?
Any ideas.