Hesselrode

iTrader: (3)

can anyone do a step by step engine replacement?... any tips I get my engine tomorrow and I have never done an engine swap and I don't want to do anything wrong and mess something up.. Do you have to remove the tranny? any help would be great..

Im_DANomite

iTrader: (1)

seriously? i wouldn't attempt it if you don't know what you're doing.

chickenwafer

iTrader: (9)

Um, yeah. If you don't know how, dude, don't do it.

A Step-By-Step motor replacement? There is A LOT involved in pulling a motor.

ken-x8

I believe there's a thread that has pictures of an rengine R&R. Don't remember whose thread it was, but it was one where Charles Hill flew in to do the work in the guy's garage. Maybe someone remembers more than I do?

I assume you've got the shop manual. If not, let us know and a bunch of us will give links to our favorite on-line sources.

Ken

EDZRIDE

iTrader: (1)

Here's a good start:
http://www.myrotarycar.com/portal/fo...3le/index.html

Look in the "Engine" section, "Mechanical" sub-section.

04RX8man

I believe that was Mysql's car that they did when he had his fron rotor crack and leaking...however i may be mistaking...

like otther said if u dont knowabout it i wold not suggest it! good possibilithy someting will go wrong

Spinning Sushi

iTrader: (21)

It's easy, just make sure you know where all the connections, sensors, and hoses go and you're all set.

ken-x8

But it can be a good adventure/learning experience. And he's got a new engine coming, so he's committed.

Hesselrode - make sure you label everything that you take off or disconnect. Lay in a supply of plastic bags and small boxes to hold parts. Make sketches. Take photos...if you don't have digital cameral buy an inexpensive one.

Ken

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Best advise ever. I have done plenty of motor swaps and each one carries its own set of difficulties. First decide if your removing it from the top or the bottom. Also, there are some threads where people have taken pictures when they had their engines replaced at the dealer and you can get an idea how they do it.

Hesselrode

iTrader: (3)

what is easiest top or bottom.. if i can convert an automatic to a manual and it work then surely i can replace one engine with another... I have alot of mechanical experience, and i have a hobby shop with every tool.. the engine i bought is complete with everything for the most part so i don't have to take everything off of one and put on the other only altenator and ac compressor.. also there are experts at the hobby shop that are able to help a little and give advice but i just needed to know the things that wouldn't go for normal engines.. i think it has all the sensors and things so should just drop in and be good...

ken-x8

This is just book learning on my part, but according to the shop manual the engine, transmission and cross member are removed as a unit from underneath.

Here's a link to the shop manual where I read that:

http://www.hi-impact.org/ryang/modif...8_manuals.html

I've found that edition to be more complete than the one EZRIDE pointed you to. Read both.

You need Volume 03, about 8 MB, of that manual.

Hope this helps...let us know how it goes.

Ken

04RX8man

also am pretty sure it's a one piece enginetranny removal!

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

Out the top: remove the tranny from the motor.
Out the bottom: it all comes out in one piece.

If you don't know what I'm talking about, don't do it.

EDIT -

I'm building a motor tomorrow and will probably drop it in over the weekend. It'll all be on video stream, so you can watch it there.

Im_DANomite

iTrader: (1)

if you're mechanically inclined, then i don't see a problem then. pretty straight foward job...took me about 8 hours to do.

i would definately take it out from the top, i've done it both ways and found it easier to take it out from the top.

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

8 hours is great.
These days, I'm much too creaky and lazy to go through it that fast.
I usually take 2 easy days.

04RX8man

^where is the video stream?

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

I'll post it up in one of my threads tomorrow when I'm working on it.
I'll probably use my DimDim account so I can have multiple streams and chat.
Otherwise, it'll be on the BHR Stickam channel.

Im_DANomite

iTrader: (1)

it would've been faster. but i accidently had the APV gear link kinked. so the motor wasn't able to turn the auxilary ports. pulled the intake manifold back far enough to get my fingers in to loosen up the linkage and get it to turn...what a pain that turned out to be.

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, that is seriously fast.
Are you using a lift?

04RX8man

^I'll watch for your thread wouldn't mind watchin!

Devsbop

Saw A motor being replaced at the dealer. The motor comes out the bottom along with the whole front wheels and all.

Im_DANomite

iTrader: (1)

of course!

Im_DANomite

iTrader: (1)

i did that the first time, but it involves a LOT more. especially if you don't have an engine table. those oil cooler lines can be a bitch to get off. then you gotta disconnect the steering column from the rack, so there's always the chance of your steering wheel being off. disconnect wires for speed sensors, etc around the suspension area is a bit of a pain. then the biggest pain is to line the subframe back up to the car.

much rather do it from the top...10x easier.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

How much more difficult is it to remove the engine with the tranny still attached (from the top)?
I'm taking notes since I'll be removing an engine this winter

Im_DANomite

iTrader: (1)

the motor sits behind the front axles, so it's pretty deep within the engine bay. but at the right angle, it might just slip right out. but i wouldn't chance it.

i'm gonna write up how exactly i did it:

disconnected battery and removed
drained all fluid from engine (oil and coolant)
disconnected wire harness going to ECU and fuse box
removed air box, strut bar, air injection pump
disconnected coolant hoses, oil cooler lines, vacuum lines, fuels lines, and grounds
removed all under braces, exhaust, and plastic panels
remove torsion bar between diff and tranny (support rear diff with a wooden block)
disconnect drive shaft from diff and chasis
remove trans with drive shaft still attach (so no fluid spills out, but a plug works as well)
remove motor mounts and pull that sucker out!

ok, so that was really vague, but it's really not that bad!!